Labouring up and down Prisunic’s styling streams: The creative studio of a retail chain in 1960s France

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 (2) ◽  
pp. 213-236 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sophie Chapdelaine de Montvalon

This article looks at the French retail chain Prisunic’s fashion production in the 1960s and, in particular, at the collective and invisible labour of its creative studio established in 1953. It examines the processes by which Prisunic evolved from selling clothes, infamous for their shabbiness, to selling fashion during the 1960s. First, this article focuses on the organization of Prisunic. Second, it turns to the interactions between Prisunic as a fashion producer and cultural intermediaries such as forecasting agencies. Specifically, it analyses how Maïmé Arnodin’s ‘colour books’ became instrumental to Prisunic’s design process. Third, it considers the diversity of occupations within the studio, including stylist, fashion designer, fashion photographer, graphic designer and typographer, and considers their interactions. Fourth, the article delves into the interpersonal relations of studio members with fashion journalists and editors, as well as structural interactions between fashion producers and fashion media. Especially, it questions the role of French Elle in the visual and discursive construction of Prisunic’s commodities as the product of creative labour. The article draws on sociologist Michel Callon’s focus on ‘agencies’ and ‘material devices’, which are instrumental in shaping markets and the cultural economy. Further, it builds on sociologist Liz McFall’s characterization of material devices as shaped by the interaction of institutional, organizational and technological arrangements to analyse the studio’s labour practices within Prisunic, upstream with its suppliers and downstream with the press. This article traces the processes, interactions and arrangements that make up Prisunic’s styling streams.

2021 ◽  
Vol 12 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Catherine A. Nikiel ◽  
Elfatih A. B. Eltahir

AbstractFor millennia the Nile supplied Egypt with more water than needed. As the population grew and the economy expanded, demand on water increased accordingly. Here, we present a comprehensive analysis to reconstruct how total demand on water outstripped supply of the Nile water in the late 1970s, starting from a surplus of about 20 km3 per year in the 1960s leading to a deficit of about 40 km3 per year by the late 2010s. The gap is satisfied by import of virtual water. The role of economic growth in driving per capita demand on water is quantified based on detailed analysis of water use by agriculture and other sectors. We develop and test an empirical model of water demand in Egypt that relates demand on water to growth rates in the economy and population. Looking forward, we project that within this decade of the 2020 s, under nominal scenarios of population and economic growth, Egypt is likely to import more virtual water than the water supplied by the Nile, bringing into question the historical characterization of Egypt as “the gift of the Nile”.


2021 ◽  
Vol 18 (1) ◽  
pp. 34-49
Author(s):  
Laura Mayne

Despite being one of the most significant players in the British film industry of the 1960s and 1970s, Nat Cohen remains a curiously neglected figure in histories of that era. At Anglo-Amalgamated he oversaw a varied slate of productions, from B-movies and cheap programmers to box-office successes like Ken Loach’s Poor Cow. He greenlit some of the greatest commercial hits of the 1960, including New Wave dramas ( Billy Liar, A Kind of Loving), pop musicals ( Catch Us If You Can) and horror films now widely considered to be classics of British cinema ( Peeping Tom). After Anglo-Amalgamated was acquired as part of EMI’s takeover of the Associated British Pictures Corporation (ABPC), Cohen headed Anglo-EMI, where his business acumen and shrewd commercial instincts led to him being dubbed ‘King Cohen’ by the press and widely recognised as one of the most powerful men in the British film industry. Drawing on recent scholarly work on the role of the producer, this article will explore links between Anglo-ABPC and EMI through the lens of Cohen’s career and distinctive ‘movie mogul’ persona.


2021 ◽  
pp. 002190962110386
Author(s):  
Saimum Parvez

This study examines the role of the press in shaping national identities in contemporary Bangladesh. It employs the critical discourse analysis method to analyze newspapers’ content and closely examines the news texts of three high-profile events in 2013: the Shahbag movement, the murder of blogger Rajib, and the Hefajat movement. Based on the critical discourse analysis of newspaper articles related to these three events, this study observes a discursive construction of two binary and intolerant identities in the coverage. This analysis demonstrates how the discourse of each newspaper creates meanings related to national identities and ideologies that serve to justify the interests of ‘us’ and to criticize ‘them’.


Author(s):  
David Brown

This chapter examines the role of the newspaper, and of public opinion, in a political society that frequently described and defined itself as advanced and progressive, and which was apparently moving inexorably towards democracy. Yet while the press was often seen as crucial to this process—as a liberating, inclusive, and representative agent—it could often serve equally as a mechanism of political control and influence. Historians have written of ‘educational ideals’ and the growing professionalization of journalism, but there is clearly no simple characterization of the press. Examining how the perceived role of the press has changed over 200 years, taking account of the views of owners and editors, politicians, and readers, the chapter considers the political functions of the press and, more widely, how the so-called fourth estate has impacted on and shaped political change in modern Britain.


2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (3) ◽  
pp. 549-567
Author(s):  
Bernardo Borges Buarque de Hollanda

The year of 1968 was also marked by unrest and riots in the stands of Maracanã stadium. In a period of poor performance of their teams, groups of young football fans threw themselves into the fight against directors of big clubs in Rio, through protests, demonstrations and even marches outside Rio de Janeiro’s stadium. Inspired by the international slogan Youth Power, these newly formed groups adopted similarly a critical stand on the traditional model of supporters, the “Charangas” (small music bands), originated in the 1940s, characterized by the prevalence of a single charismatic leader, recognized by the Club and by the majority of its fans. During the 1970s, the dissident Young Supporters Groups are established on the sports scene and make possible the emergence of a multitude of small and medium-sized associations, giving the supporting activity associative and cultural meanings, recreational and social, until then non-existent in a period of civil-military dictatorship (1964-1985). By gathering these events derived from the serial reading of journalistic narratives, obtained in sports newspapers archives, this article aims to show how a particular type of association, based on club idolatry, took shape on a national and international scale in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, and assumed historical and cultural particularities in professional football in Rio de Janeiro. We sought to demonstrate how this phenomenon from the second half of the 20th century met the new demands for participation and differentiation of urban populations, especially its young protagonists, in an increasingly competitive, massified and commodified professional field.


2010 ◽  
Vol 53 (4) ◽  
pp. 939-962 ◽  
Author(s):  
EDUARDO POSADA-CARBÓ

ABSTRACTThis article examines the major role that newspapers played in Colombia, as central components of its political system, between 1830 and 1930. After some introductory remarks, the first section offers a general characterization of the Colombian press during the period, underlining its volatile existence, its national significance despite limited readership levels, and its overwhelming political nature in the hands of partisan editors. The second section analyses the political role of the press, by focusing on the crucial electoral functions performed by newspapers in launching candidates and providing them with platforms, serving as party organs, and measuring the amount of public support for candidates and parties. The article also explores the extent to which the press played a wider democratic role in supporting the suffrage, in instructing voters about rights and duties, and, by doing so, in forming an enduring sense of citizenship.


Author(s):  
Marino De Luca ◽  
Antonio Ciaglia

Populism is being increasingly studied by political and social scientists. This article pays particular attention to the way in which ‘people’ can be approached and appealed to by their leaders. In particular, by undertaking a content analysis of the two most read daily newspapers in Italy, and by relying on the technique of correspondence analysis, this article shows that to fully understand the phenomenon of populism, the way in which ‘the people’ are approached by their leaders cannot be left aside. In doing so, this article empirically analyses and discusses three dimension of populism and contributes to a more granular understanding of this phenomenon in established democracies.


Author(s):  
L. T. Germinario

Understanding the role of metal cluster composition in determining catalytic selectivity and activity is of major interest in heterogeneous catalysis. The electron microscope is well established as a powerful tool for ultrastructural and compositional characterization of support and catalyst. Because the spatial resolution of x-ray microanalysis is defined by the smallest beam diameter into which the required number of electrons can be focused, the dedicated STEM with FEG is the instrument of choice. The main sources of errors in energy dispersive x-ray analysis (EDS) are: (1) beam-induced changes in specimen composition, (2) specimen drift, (3) instrumental factors which produce background radiation, and (4) basic statistical limitations which result in the detection of a finite number of x-ray photons. Digital beam techniques have been described for supported single-element metal clusters with spatial resolutions of about 10 nm. However, the detection of spurious characteristic x-rays away from catalyst particles produced images requiring several image processing steps.


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