Suspended-sediment transport in the surf zone: response to breaking waves

1996 ◽  
Vol 16 (15) ◽  
pp. 1989-2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Reginald A. Beach ◽  
Richard W. Sternberg
2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1300
Author(s):  
Troels Aagaard ◽  
Joost Brinkkemper ◽  
Drude F. Christensen ◽  
Michael G. Hughes ◽  
Gerben Ruessink

The existence of sandy beaches relies on the onshore transport of sand by waves during post-storm conditions. Most operational sediment transport models employ wave-averaged terms, and/or the instantaneous cross-shore velocity signal, but the models often fail in predictions of the onshore-directed transport rates. An important reason is that they rarely consider the phase relationships between wave orbital velocity and the suspended sediment concentration. This relationship depends on the intra-wave structure of the bed shear stress and hence on the timing and magnitude of turbulence production in the water column. This paper provides an up-to-date review of recent experimental advances on intra-wave turbulence characteristics, sediment mobilization, and suspended sediment transport in laboratory and natural surf zones. Experimental results generally show that peaks in the suspended sediment concentration are shifted forward on the wave phase with increasing turbulence levels and instantaneous near-bed sediment concentration scales with instantaneous turbulent kinetic energy. The magnitude and intra-wave phase of turbulence production and sediment concentration are shown to depend on wave (breaker) type, seabed configuration, and relative wave height, which opens up the possibility of more robust predictions of transport rates for different wave and beach conditions.


2002 ◽  
Vol 185 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 283-302 ◽  
Author(s):  
Troels Aagaard ◽  
Kerry P. Black ◽  
Brian Greenwood

Author(s):  
Gabriel Lim ◽  
Ravindra Jayaratne ◽  
Tomoya Shibayama

Process-based morphodynamic modelling suites (as well as other process-based models) are often considered to be inefficient and unsuitable for simulating medium- to long-term morphodynamics due to the various theoretical (e.g. robustness of sediment transport models) and practical (e.g. computational costs) limitations. In particular, a lack of knowledge of sediment transport processes and how they relate to hydrodynamics makes the application of short-term models to long-term coastal evolution challenging. Even the state-of-the-art coastal area modelling suites (such as Delft3D and MIKE21) consist of relatively simple physics, relying instead on numerous semi-empirical parameterizations, which are often poorly supported by measured data and/or physical process understanding. In particular, suspended sediment transport in the highly turbulent surf zone is poorly modelled under breaking wave conditions. Six existing suspended sand concentration (SSC) models were critically evaluated against four high-resolution datasets with field-scale breaking waves and co-located velocity and concentration measurements over multiple cross-shore zones (shoaling, breaking and inner-surf zones). A new improved concentration model was proposed based on a novel empirical relationship observed between local water depth and reference concentration, as well as latest process understanding and insights.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/2iBrnXs4b3M


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 120 ◽  
Author(s):  
R.W. Sternberg ◽  
N.C. Shi ◽  
John P. Downing

The suspended sediment distribution and longshore sediment transport characteristics at Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara, California were investigated using a series of miniature optical backseatter sensors which can measure particle concentrations as high as 180 gm/£ and have 10 Hz frequency response. Vertical arrays of sensors were maintained at up to four positions across the surf zone during 7-25 February 1980 and were operated concurrently with pressure sensors and current meters. Data were collected on a daily basis over 2-4 hour periods. The data were analyzed to reveal concentration profiles of suspended sediment, the average suspended sediment loads, and the longshore particle flux in relation to varying wave conditions. Results show that sediment transport occurs as individual suspension events related to incident wave motions and infragravity motion oscillations within the surf zone; suspended sediment concentration decreases approximately logarithimically away from the seabed; the maximum values of longshore transport rates occur in the mid-surf zone; and the measured suspended sediment longshore transport rate is equal to the total longshore transport rate as predicted by existing transport equations.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 133 ◽  
Author(s):  
Bruce E. Jaffe ◽  
Richard W. Sternberg ◽  
Asbury H. Sallenger

Field measurements of suspended sediment-transport were made across a dissipative surf zone during a storm. A correlation between high suspended mass in the water column and periods of onshore flow caused a net onshore transport of suspended sediment even though the mean near-bottom flow was directed offshore. The observed onshore migration of a nearshore bar was predicted by gradients in the crossshore suspended-sediment transport.


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