The Taste of Gentrification
Food and taste have become symbols of neighborhood transformation and powerful tools of urban renewal. Building on Bourdieu’s notion of taste as social distinction, we argue that food distinguishes places, giving some neighborhoods character and value, while stigmatizing others as food deserts. Although new and reclaimed food spaces seem to transform gentrifying neighborhoods and attract newcomers, food insecurity remains a significant concern among long-term residents, who resent recent changes and feel displaced. This chapter relies on qualitative reviews of restaurants in two rapidly gentrifying neighborhoods of San Diego to show how tastes become ways for newcomers and long-term residents to relate to each other, reflecting broader socio-spatial processes associated with class, race, and ethnicity.