scholarly journals The Method for Evaluating Cross-Shore Migration of Sand Bar under the Influence of Nonlinear Waves Transformation

Water ◽  
2022 ◽  
Vol 14 (2) ◽  
pp. 214
Author(s):  
Margarita Shtremel ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Berna Ayat

Sand bar migration on the gently sloping sandy bottom in the coastal zone as a result of nonlinear wave transformation and corresponding sediment transport is discussed. Wave transformation on the intermediate depth causes periodic exchange of energy in space between the first and the second wave harmonics, accompanied by changes in the wave profile asymmetry. This leads to the occurrence of periodical fluctuations in the wave-induced sediment transport. It is shown that the position of the second nonlinear wave harmonic maximum determines location of the divergence point of sediment transport on the inclined bottom profile, where it changes direction from the onshore to the offshore. Such sediment transport pattern leads to formation of an underwater sand bar. A method is proposed to predict the position of the bar on an underwater slope after a storm based on calculation of the position of the maximum amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic. The method is validated on the base of field measurements and ERA 5 reanalysis wave data.

Fluids ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (11) ◽  
pp. 397
Author(s):  
Muhammad Zikra ◽  
Shaskya Salsabila ◽  
Kriyo Sambodho

The Port of 2 × 110 MW Nagan Raya Coal Fired Steam Power Plant is one of the facilities constructed by the State Electricity Company in Aceh Province, Indonesia. During its operation, which began in 2013, the port has dealt with large amounts of sedimentation within the port and ship entrances. The goal of this study is to mitigate the sedimentation problem in the Nagan Raya port by evaluating the effect of maintenance dredging. Field measurements, and hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling analysis, were conducted during this study. Evaluation of the wind data showed that the dominant wind direction is from south to west. Based on the analysis of the wave data, the dominant wave direction is from the south to the west. Therefore, the wave-induced currents in the surf zone were from south to north. Based on the analysis of longshore sediment transport, the supply of sediments to Nagan Raya port was estimated to be around 40,000–60,000 m3 per year. Results from the sediment model showed that sedimentation of up to 1 m was captured in areas of the inlet channel of Nagan Raya port. The use of a passing system for sand is one of the sedimentation management solutions proposed in this study. The dredged sediment material around the navigation channel was dumped in a dumping area in the middle of the sea at a depth of 11 m, with a distance of 1.5 km from the shoreline. To obtain a greater maximum result, the material disposal distance should be dumped further away, at least at a depth of 20 m or a distance of 20 miles from the coastline.


2011 ◽  
Vol 1 (32) ◽  
pp. 68 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pham Thanh Nam ◽  
Magnus Larson ◽  
Hans Hanson

A numerical model of beach topography evolution was developed. The model includes five sub-models: random wave transformation model, surface roller model, wave-induced current model, sediment transport model, and morphological change model. The model was validated by two unique high-quality data sets obtained from experiments on the morphological impact of a detached breakwater and a T-head groin in the basin of the Large-scale Sediment Transport Facility (LSTF) at the US Army Corps of Engineer Research and Development Center in Vicksburg, Miss. The simulations demonstrated that the model well reproduced the wave conditions, wave-induced currents, and morphological evolution in the vicinity of the structures.


2007 ◽  
Vol 36 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Leszek Łęczyński ◽  
Natalia Chlebus ◽  
Gabriela Grusza ◽  
Jan Jędrasik

Morphologic and hydrodynamic conditions of Hel Peninsula's abrasion in the Kuźnica region (southern Baltic)The purpose of the presented paper is the identification and assessment of causes of intensive abrasion in the open coastline of the Hel Peninsula and the effect of countermeasures. Numerical modeling of nearshore hydrodynamics, topographic analysis and field measurements were carried out. The Baltic Sea hydrodynamic model, a model of wave-induced nearshore circulation and the wave model SWAN were employed. 3D hydrodynamic modeling resulted in the become visible that fields of shear bottom stresses as well as bottom currents depended on atmospheric forcing and depth. A correlation between bottom stresses and topography was obtained. The results of modeling of the nearshore hydrodynamics demonstrated a dominant role for alongshore sediment transport. The magnitude of both cross-and alongshore wave-induced currents strongly depended on wave height gradient, which was significantly greater in storm periods. During storms, sediment transport occurs also in the cross-shore direction.


Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


1998 ◽  
Vol 37 (1) ◽  
pp. 155-162
Author(s):  
Flemming Schlütter ◽  
Kjeld Schaarup-Jensen

Increased knowledge of the processes which govern the transport of solids in sewers is necessary in order to develop more reliable and applicable sediment transport models for sewer systems. Proper validation of these are essential. For that purpose thorough field measurements are imperative. This paper renders initial results obtained in an ongoing case study of a Danish combined sewer system in Frejlev, a small town southwest of Aalborg, Denmark. Field data are presented concerning estimation of the sediment transport during dry weather. Finally, considerations on how to approach numerical modelling is made based on numerical simulations using MOUSE TRAP (DHI 1993).


Water ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (15) ◽  
pp. 2038
Author(s):  
Gennady Gladkov ◽  
Michał Habel ◽  
Zygmunt Babiński ◽  
Pakhom Belyakov

The paper presents recommendations for using the results obtained in sediment transport simulation and modeling of channel deformations in rivers. This work relates to the issues of empirical modeling of the water flow characteristics in natural riverbeds with a movable bottom (alluvial channels) which are extremely complex. The study shows that in the simulation of sediment transport and calculation of channel deformations in the rivers, it is expedient to use the calculation dependences of Chézy’s coefficient for assessing the roughness of the bottom sediment mixture, or the dependences of the form based on the field investigation data. Three models are most commonly used and based on the original formulas of Meyer-Peter and Müller (1948), Einstein (1950) and van Rijn (1984). This work deals with assessing the hydraulic resistance of the channel and improving the river sediment transport model in a simulation of riverbed transformation on the basis of previous research to verify it based on 296 field measurements on the Central-East European lowland rivers. The performed test calculations show that the modified van Rijn formula gives the best results from all the considered variants.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 635
Author(s):  
Hyeok Jin ◽  
Kideok Do ◽  
Sungwon Shin ◽  
Daniel Cox

Coastal dunes are important morphological features for both ecosystems and coastal hazard mitigation. Because understanding and predicting dune erosion phenomena is very important, various numerical models have been developed to improve the accuracy. In the present study, a process-based model (XBeachX) was tested and calibrated to improve the accuracy of the simulation of dune erosion from a storm event by adjusting the coefficients in the model and comparing it with the large-scale experimental data. The breaker slope coefficient was calibrated to predict cross-shore wave transformation more accurately. To improve the prediction of the dune erosion profile, the coefficients related to skewness and asymmetry were adjusted. Moreover, the bermslope coefficient was calibrated to improve the simulation performance of the bermslope near the dune face. Model performance was assessed based on the model-data comparisons. The calibrated XBeachX successfully predicted wave transformation and dune erosion phenomena. In addition, the results obtained from other two similar experiments on dune erosion with the same calibrated set matched well with the observed wave and profile data. However, the prediction of underwater sand bar evolution remains a challenge.


2014 ◽  
Vol 56 (2) ◽  
pp. 1450008-1-1450008-21 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoaki Nakamura ◽  
Yuta Nezasa ◽  
Yong-Hwan Cho ◽  
Ryo Ishihara ◽  
Norimi Mizutani

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document