High-resolution 3D Forecasting System for Barcelona's beaches and coastal waters

Author(s):  
María Liste Muñoz ◽  
Marc Mestres Ridge ◽  
Manuel Espino Infantes ◽  
Agustín Sánchez-Arcilla ◽  
Manuel García León ◽  
...  

<p>The ocean is an essential part of the planet that plays a crucial role in the global life system and provides vital resources for humanity. Coastal areas are the most affected by direct pressure from human activity, and their management is very complex due to the multiple interconnected processes that occur there. To conserve and protect our coastal areas, we must observe and understand how they interact. Despite its paramount importance to society, there are fundamental gaps in coastal observing and modelling. Therefore, current forecasting systems limit our capacity to manage this narrow border between land and sea sustainably. Improved numerical models and sustained observations of our ocean are needed to make informed decisions and ensure that human-coastal interaction is sustainable and safe.</p><p>EuroSea initiative is an innovation action of the European Union entitled "Improvement and integration of the European oceans Observation and prediction systems for the sustainable use of the oceans'. EuroSea brings together the leading European players in the ocean observation and forecasting with users of oceanographic products and services and provides high-resolution coastal operational prediction systems in domains such as ports, beaches and nearby coastal waters.</p><p>In the EuroSea project framework, we present a 3D hydrodynamic tool to improve Barcelona's beaches' inner dynamics solution. We use the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere - Wave - Sediment Transport (COAWST) Modeling System that utilizes the Model Coupling Toolkit to exchange prognostic variables between the ocean model ROMS, wave model SWAN, and the Community Sediment Transport Modeling System (CSTMS) sediment routines. As part of the system, the wave and ocean models run with nested, refined, spatial grids to provide increased resolution, scaling down to resolve nearshore wave-driven flows, all within selected regions of a larger, coarser-scale coastal modelling system.</p><p>Bathymetry was built using a combination of bathymetric data from EMODnet (European Marine Observation and Data Network), and specific high-resolution sources provided by local authorities. Copernicus products have driven these high-resolution simulations.</p><p>Results have been validated with field campaigns data, displaying preliminary agreements between model outputs and in-situ observations. The model provides results that will be used to study interactions between sea-level hazards, economic activity, and risk. These results will develop new forecast capabilities, such as erosion and flooding, rip currents, floating debris and flushing times.</p><p>Finally, we look ahead to the future of the operational prediction systems as useful tools to make informed decisions, minimize risks and improve environmental management.</p>

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Trotta ◽  
Ivan Federico ◽  
Nadia Pinardi ◽  
Giovanni Coppini ◽  
Salvatore Causio ◽  
...  

High-impact ocean weather events and climate extremes can have devastating effects on coastal zones and small islands. Marine Disaster Risk Reduction (DRR) is a systematic approach to such events, through which the risk of disaster can be identified, assessed and reduced. This can be done by improving ocean and atmosphere prediction models, data assimilation for better initial conditions and developing an efficient and sustainable impact forecasting methodology for Early Warnings Systems. A common user request during disaster remediation actions is for high-resolution information, which can be derived from easily deployable numerical models nested into operational larger-scale ocean models. The Structured and Unstructured Relocatable Ocean Model for Forecasting (SURF) enables users to rapidly deploy a nested high-resolution numerical model into larger-scale ocean forecasts. Rapidly downscaling the currents, sea level, temperature, and salinity fields is critical in supporting emergency responses to extreme events and natural hazards in the world’s oceans. The most important requirement in a relocatable model is to ensure that the interpolation of low-resolution ocean model fields (analyses and reanalyses) and atmospheric forcing is tested for different model domains. The provision of continuous ocean circulation forecasts through the Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS) enables this testing. High-resolution SURF ocean circulation forecasts can be provided to specific application models such as oil spill fate and transport models, search and rescue trajectory models, and ship routing models requiring knowledge of meteo-oceanographic conditions. SURF was used to downscale CMEMS circulation analyses in four world ocean regions, and the high-resolution currents it can simulate for specific applications are examined. The SURF downscaled circulation fields show that the marine current resolutions affect the quality of the application models to be used for assessing disaster risks, particularly near coastal areas where the coastline geometry must be resolved through a numerical grid, and high-frequency coastal currents must be accurately simulated.


2021 ◽  
Vol 8 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kaveh Purkiani ◽  
Benjamin Gillard ◽  
André Paul ◽  
Matthias Haeckel ◽  
Sabine Haalboom ◽  
...  

Predictability of the dispersion of sediment plumes induced by potential deep-sea mining activities is still very limited due to operational limitations on in-situ observations required for a thorough validation and calibration of numerical models. Here we report on a plume dispersion experiment carried out in the German license area for the exploration of polymetallic nodules in the northeastern tropical Pacific Ocean in 4,200 m water depth. The dispersion of a sediment plume induced by a small-scale dredge experiment in April 2019 was investigated numerically by employing a sediment transport module coupled to a high-resolution hydrodynamic regional ocean model. Various aspects including sediment characteristics and ocean hydrodynamics were examined to obtain the best statistical agreement between sensor-based observations and model results. Results show that the model is capable of reproducing suspended sediment concentration and redeposition patterns observed during the dredge experiment. Due to a strong southward current during the dredging, the model predicts no sediment deposition and plume dispersion north of the dredging tracks. The sediment redeposition thickness reaches up to 9 mm directly next to the dredging tracks and 0.07 mm in about 320 m away from the dredging center. The model results suggest that seabed topography and variable sediment release heights above the seafloor cause significant changes especially for the low sedimentation pattern in the far-field area. Near-bottom mixing is expected to strongly influence vertical transport of suspended sediment.


2016 ◽  
Author(s):  
Achilleas G. Samaras ◽  
Maria Gabriella Gaeta ◽  
Adrià Moreno Miquel ◽  
Renata Archetti

Abstract. Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices, and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave- and hydro-dynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities, and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented, and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on the tested models and the use of numerical models – in general – in the above context, especially considering that the design of harbours, coastal protection works and management practices in the coastal zone is based on scenario-based approaches as well.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Trotta ◽  
Ivan Federico ◽  
Nadia Pinardi ◽  
Giovanni Coppini ◽  
Salvatore Causio ◽  
...  

<p>High-impact ocean weather events and climate extremes can have devastating effects on coastal zones and small islands. Marine Disaster Risk Reduction (DRR) is a systematic approach to such events, through which the risk of disaster can be identified, assessed and reduced via direct observations, thus improving ocean and atmosphere prediction models and the development of efficient early warnings systems. A common user request during disaster remediation actions is for high-resolution information, which can be derived from easily deployable numerical models nested into operational larger-scale ocean models.</p><p>The Structured and Unstructured Relocatable Ocean Model for Forecasting (SURF) has been designed to provide operational ocean forecasting communities with the means to rapidly deploy a nested high-resolution numerical model into larger-scale ocean forecasts. Rapidly downscaling the current, sea level and temperature, and salinity fields is critical in supporting emergency response and DRR planning, which are typically related to very localized areas in the world’s oceans. The first and most important requirement in a relocatable modelling capability is to ensure all of the interfaces have been tested through low-resolution operational ocean analyses, forecasts and atmospheric forcing. The provision of continuous ocean circulation forecasts through the Copernicus Marine Environment Monitoring Service (CMEMS) enables this testing. High-resolution SURF ocean circulation forecasts can then be accessed through specific numerical application model interfaces that require the knowledge of meteo-oceanographic conditions, such as oil spill forecasting, search and rescue modelling, and ship routing modelling for safe navigation.</p><p>SURF was used to downscale CMEMS circulation analyses in four world ocean regions, and the high-resolution currents it can simulate for specific applications are examined. The SURF downscaled circulation fields show that the marine current resolutions affect the quality of the application models to be used for assessing disaster risks, particularly near coastal areas where the coastline geometry must be resolved through a numerical grid, and high-frequency coastal currents must be accurately simulated.</p>


2016 ◽  
Vol 16 (6) ◽  
pp. 1499-1518 ◽  
Author(s):  
Achilleas G. Samaras ◽  
Maria Gabriella Gaeta ◽  
Adrià Moreno Miquel ◽  
Renata Archetti

Abstract. Numerical modelling has become an essential component of today's coastal planning, decision support and risk assessment. High-resolution modelling offers an extensive range of capabilities regarding simulated conditions, works and practices and provides with a wide array of data regarding nearshore wave dynamics and hydrodynamics. In the present work, the open-source TELEMAC suite and the commercial software MIKE21 are applied to selected coastal areas of South Italy. Applications follow a scenario-based approach in order to study representative wave conditions in the coastal field; the models' results are intercompared in order to test both their performance and capabilities and are further evaluated on the basis of their operational use for coastal planning and design. A multiparametric approach for the rapid assessment of wave conditions in coastal areas is also presented and implemented in areas of the same region. The overall approach is deemed to provide useful insights on the tested models and the use of numerical models – in general – in the above context, especially considering that the design of harbours, coastal protection works and management practices in the coastal zone is based on scenario-based approaches as well.


2018 ◽  
Author(s):  
Carlos Rocha ◽  
Christopher A. Edwards ◽  
Moninya Roughan ◽  
Paulina Cetina-Heredia ◽  
Colette Kerry

Abstract. Understanding phytoplankton dynamics is critical across a range of topics, spanning from fisheries management to climate change mitigation. It is particularly interesting in the East Australian Current (EAC) System, as the region’s eddy field strongly conditions nutrient availability and, therefore, phytoplankton growth. Numerical models provide unparalleled insight into these biogeochemical dynamics. Yet, to date, modelling efforts off southeastern Australia have either targeted case studies (small spatial and temporal scales) or encompassed the whole EAC System but focused on climate change effects at the mesoscale (with a spatial resolution of 1/10º). Here we couple a model of the pelagic nitrogen cycle (bio_Fennel) to a 10-year high-resolution (2.5–5 km horizontal) three-dimensional ocean model (ROMS) to resolve both regional and finer scale biogeochemical processes occurring in the EAC System. We use several statistical metrics to compare the simulated surface chlorophyll to an ocean colour dataset (Copernicus-GlobColour) for the 2003–2011 period and show that the model can reproduce the observed phytoplankton surface patterns with a domain-wide rmse of approximately 0.2 mg chla m−3 and a correlation coefficient of 0.76. This coupled configuration will provide a much-needed framework to examine phytoplankton variability in the EAC System providing insight into important ecosystem dynamics such as regional nutrient supply mechanisms and biogeochemical cycling occurring in EAC eddies.


Author(s):  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Fedor Gippius ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Stanislav Myslenkov ◽  
Elena Stoliarova ◽  
...  

This study is focused on the alterations and typical features of the wind wave climate of the Black Sea’s coastal waters since 1979 till nowadays. Wind wave parameters were calculated by means of the 3rd-generation numerical spectral wind wave model SWAN, which is widely used on various spatial scales – both coastal waters and open seas. Data on wind speed and direction from the NCEP CFSR reanalysis were used as forcing. The computations were performed on an unstructured computational grid with cell size depending on the distance from the shoreline. Modeling results were applied to evaluate the main characteristics of the wind wave in various coastal areas of the sea.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (6) ◽  
pp. 600
Author(s):  
Hyun Dong Kim ◽  
Shin-ichi Aoki

When erosion occurs, sand beaches cannot maintain sufficient sand width, foreshore slopes become steeper due to frequent erosion effects, and beaches are trapped in a vicious cycle of vulnerability due to incident waves. Accordingly, beach nourishment can be used as a countermeasure to simultaneously minimize environmental impacts. However, beach nourishment is not a permanent solution and requires periodic renourishment after several years. To address this problem, minimizing the period of renourishment is an economical alternative. In the present study, using the Tuvaluan coast with its cross-sectional gravel nourishment site, four different test cases were selected for the hydraulic model experiment aimed at discovering an effective nourishment strategy to determine effective alternative methods. Numerical simulations were performed to reproduce gravel nourishment; however, none of these models simultaneously simulated the sediment transport of gravel and sand. Thus, an artificial neural network, a deep learning model, was developed using hydraulic model experiments as training datasets to analyze the possibility of simultaneously accomplishing the sediment transport of sand and gravel and supplement the shortcomings of the numerical models.


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