scholarly journals Beach-face slope dataset for Australia

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Kilian Vos ◽  
Wen Deng ◽  
Mitchell D. Harley ◽  
Ian L. Turner ◽  
Kristen D. Splinter

Abstract. Sandy beaches are unique environments composed of unconsolidated sediments that are constantly reshaped by the action of waves, tides, currents, and winds. The most seaward region of the dry beach, referred to as the beach face, is the primary interface between land and ocean and is of fundamental importance to coastal processes, including the dissipation and reflection of wave energy at the coast, and the exchange of sediment between the land and sea. The slope of the beach-face is a critical parameter in coastal geomorphology and coastal engineering, necessary to calculate the total elevation and excursion of wave run-up at the shoreline. However, datasets of the beach-face slope remain unavailable along most of the world’s coastlines. This study presents a new dataset of beach-face slopes for the Australian coastline derived from a novel remote sensing technique. The dataset covers 13,200 km of sandy coast and provides an estimate of the beach-face slope at every 100 m alongshore, accompanied by an easy to apply measure of the confidence of each slope estimate. The dataset offers a unique view of large-scale spatial variability in beach-face slope and addresses the growing need for this information to predict coastal hazards around Australia. The beach-face slope dataset and relevant metadata are available at https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.5606217 (Vos et al., 2021)

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 264
Author(s):  
Shanti Bhushan ◽  
Oumnia El Fajri ◽  
Graham Hubbard ◽  
Bradley Chambers ◽  
Christopher Kees

This study evaluates the capability of Navier–Stokes solvers in predicting forward and backward plunging breaking, including assessment of the effect of grid resolution, turbulence model, and VoF, CLSVoF interface models on predictions. For this purpose, 2D simulations are performed for four test cases: dam break, solitary wave run up on a slope, flow over a submerged bump, and solitary wave over a submerged rectangular obstacle. Plunging wave breaking involves high wave crest, plunger formation, and splash up, followed by second plunger, and chaotic water motions. Coarser grids reasonably predict the wave breaking features, but finer grids are required for accurate prediction of the splash up events. However, instabilities are triggered at the air–water interface (primarily for the air flow) on very fine grids, which induces surface peel-off or kinks and roll-up of the plunger tips. Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) turbulence models result in high eddy-viscosity in the air–water region which decays the fluid momentum and adversely affects the predictions. Both VoF and CLSVoF methods predict the large-scale plunging breaking characteristics well; however, they vary in the prediction of the finer details. The CLSVoF solver predicts the splash-up event and secondary plunger better than the VoF solver; however, the latter predicts the plunger shape better than the former for the solitary wave run-up on a slope case.


2021 ◽  
Vol 13 (7) ◽  
pp. 1399
Author(s):  
Quang Nguyen Hao ◽  
Satoshi Takewaka

In this study, we analyze the influence of the Great East Japan Earthquake, which occurred on 11 March 2011, on the shoreline of the northern Ibaraki Coast. After the earthquake, the area experienced subsidence of approximately 0.4 m. Shoreline changes at eight sandy beaches along the coast are estimated using various satellite images, including the ASTER (Advanced Spaceborne Thermal Emission and Reflection Radiometer), ALOS AVNIR-2 (Advanced Land Observing Satellite, Advanced Visible and Near-infrared Radiometer type 2), and Sentinel-2 (a multispectral sensor). Before the earthquake (for the period March 2001–January 2011), even though fluctuations in the shoreline position were observed, shorelines were quite stable, with the averaged change rates in the range of ±1.5 m/year. The shoreline suddenly retreated due to the earthquake by 20–40 m. Generally, the amount of retreat shows a strong correlation with the amount of land subsidence caused by the earthquake, and a moderate correlation with tsunami run-up height. The ground started to uplift gradually after the sudden subsidence, and shoreline positions advanced accordingly. The recovery speed of the beaches varied from +2.6 m/year to +6.6 m/year, depending on the beach conditions.


2021 ◽  
Vol 331 ◽  
pp. 04006
Author(s):  
Leli Honesti ◽  
Meli Muchlian

A tsunami hazard is an adverse event that causes damage to properties and loss of life. The problem in assessing a tsunami risk zone for a small area is significant, as available tsunami inundation zone data does not give detailed information for tsunami inundation and run-up in every nested grid. Hence, this study aims to establish a tsunami risk map in the Pasir Jambak sub-district, Padang, Indonesia. The map was carried out in every nested grid point of the area and on a large scale (1:5,000). The TUNAMI N3 program was used for the simulation of the tsunami inundation. A tsunami assessment was made through simulations in nine scenarios of fault parameter data for Sipora block earthquakes. The result of the study provides a tsunami inundation map. Furthermore, this tsunami inundation map can be used for communities, local authorities, government, and others for many studies, and decision-makers can come up with mitigation plans for a small study area.


2019 ◽  
Vol 867 ◽  
pp. 146-194 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. L. Richard ◽  
A. Duran ◽  
B. Fabrèges

We derive a two-dimensional depth-averaged model for coastal waves with both dispersive and dissipative effects. A tensor quantity called enstrophy models the subdepth large-scale turbulence, including its anisotropic character, and is a source of vorticity of the average flow. The small-scale turbulence is modelled through a turbulent-viscosity hypothesis. This fully nonlinear model has equivalent dispersive properties to the Green–Naghdi equations and is treated, both for the optimization of these properties and for the numerical resolution, with the same techniques which are used for the Green–Naghdi system. The model equations are solved with a discontinuous Galerkin discretization based on a decoupling between the hyperbolic and non-hydrostatic parts of the system. The predictions of the model are compared to experimental data in a wide range of physical conditions. Simulations were run in one-dimensional and two-dimensional cases, including run-up and run-down on beaches, non-trivial topographies, wave trains over a bar or propagation around an island or a reef. A very good agreement is reached in every cases, validating the predictive empirical laws for the parameters of the model. These comparisons confirm the efficiency of the present strategy, highlighting the enstrophy as a robust and reliable tool to describe wave breaking even in a two-dimensional context. Compared with existing depth-averaged models, this approach is numerically robust and adds more physical effects without significant increase in numerical complexity.


2013 ◽  
Vol 72 ◽  
pp. 69-79 ◽  
Author(s):  
J. Ramirez ◽  
P. Frigaard ◽  
T. Lykke Andersen ◽  
L. de Vos

2019 ◽  
Vol 49 (11) ◽  
pp. 2883-2900 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christie A. Hegermiller ◽  
John C. Warner ◽  
Maitane Olabarrieta ◽  
Christopher R. Sherwood

AbstractHurricanes interact with the Gulf Stream in the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) through a wide variety of processes, which are crucial to understand for prediction of open-ocean and coastal hazards during storms. However, it remains unclear how waves are modified by large-scale ocean currents under storm conditions, when waves are aligned with the storm-driven circulation and tightly coupled to the overlying wind field. Hurricane Matthew (2016) impacted the U.S. Southeast coast, causing extensive coastal change due to large waves and elevated water levels. The hurricane traveled on the continental shelf parallel to the SAB coastline, with the right side of the hurricane directly over the Gulf Stream. Using the Coupled Ocean–Atmosphere–Wave–Sediment Transport modeling system, we investigate wave–current interaction between Hurricane Matthew and the Gulf Stream. The model simulates ocean currents and waves over a grid encompassing the U.S. East Coast, with varied coupling of the hydrodynamic and wave components to isolate the effect of the currents on the waves, and the effect of the Gulf Stream relative to storm-driven circulation. The Gulf Stream modifies the direction of the storm-driven currents beneath the right side of the hurricane. Waves transitioned from following currents that result in wave lengthening, through negative current gradients that result in wave steepening and dissipation. Wave–current interaction over the Gulf Stream modified maximum coastal total water levels and changed incident wave directions at the coast by up to 20°, with strong implications for the morphodynamic response and stability of the coast to the hurricane.


Geosciences ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 9 (3) ◽  
pp. 131 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zai-Jin You

The mainland coast of China is about 18,000 km long and houses about 70% of China’s largest cities and 50% of its population. For the last few decades, the rapid growth of the Chinese economy has resulted in extensive development of the coastal infrastructure and property, large-scale expansion of coastal ports, excessive reclamation of coastal land, and a significant increase in the coastal population. Previous studies have indicated that tropical cyclones (TCs) have struck the coast of China at a higher frequency and intensity, and TC-induced coastal hazards have resulted in heavy human losses and huge losses to the Chinese coastal economy. In analyzing the long-term and most recent coastal hazard data collected on the coast of China, this study has found that TC-induced storm surges are responsible for 88% of the direct coastal economic losses, while TC-induced large coastal waves have caused heavy loss of human lives, and that the hazard-caused losses are shown to increase spatially from the north to south, peak in the southern coastal sector, and well correlate to storm wave energy flux. The frequency and intensity of coastal hazards on the coast of China are expected to increase in response to future changing TC conditions and rising sea levels. A simple two-parameter conceptual model is also presented for the assessment of coastal inundation and erosion hazards on the coast of China.


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