wave direction
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2022 ◽  
Author(s):  
B.R. Julian ◽  
G.R. Foulger

ABSTRACT Seismic tomography methods that use waves originating outside the volume being studied are subject to bias caused by unknown structure outside this volume. The bias is of the same mathematical order and similar magnitude as the local-structure effects being studied; failure to account for it can significantly corrupt derived structural models. This bias can be eliminated by adding to the inverse problem three unknown parameters specifying the direction and time for each incident wave, a procedure analogous to solving for event locations in local-earthquake and whole-mantle tomography. The forward problem is particularly simple: The first-order change in the arrival time at an observation point resulting from a perturbation to the incident-wave direction and time equals the change in the time of the perturbed incident wave at the point where the unperturbed ray entered the study volume. This consequence of Fermat’s principle apparently has not previously been recognized. Published teleseismic tomography models probably contain significant artifacts and need to be recomputed using the more complete theory.


2021 ◽  
Vol 33 (6) ◽  
pp. 367-373
Author(s):  
Geun Se Lee ◽  
Dong Hyeon Jeong ◽  
Yong Ho Moon ◽  
Won Kyung Park ◽  
Jang Won Chae

In this study, deep learning model was set up to predict the wave heights inside a harbour. Various machine learning techniques were applied to the model in consideration of the transformation characteristics of offshore waves while propagating into the harbour. Pohang New Port was selected for model application, which had a serious problem of unloading due to swell and has lots of available wave data. Wave height, wave period, and wave direction at offshore sites and wave heights inside the harbour were used for the model input and output, respectively, and then the model was trained using deep learning method. By considering the correlation between the time series wave data of offshore and inside the harbour, the data set was separated into prevailing wave directions as a pre-processing method. As a result, It was confirmed that accuracy and stability of the model prediction are considerably increased.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
ATEETH SHETTY ◽  
R. S. KANKARA ◽  
DHANALAKSHMI S. ◽  
BUCKLE S. ◽  
SUBBURAJ S.

Abstract The study examines the shoreline (1990-2019) and nearshore morphological changes (seasonal) to understand the littoral drift and sediment budget variability. Shoreline change rate depicts erosion (-0.06 m/yr) in the northern sector and accretion (+0.12 m/yr) in the southern sector. Seasonal nearshore morphological changes from non-monsoon to monsoon period signifies net erosion (-1.8x10^4 m^3 ) in northern sector and net accretion (+2.5x10^4 m^3) in the southern sector. Although the lost sediment during monsoon is regained in non-monsoon period, the quantity of sediment gain is reduced in areas with human interventions. The results of the investigation depict the dominance of littoral drift towards north from February to October, when wave approach from east-southeast to south-southeast direction and southwards from November to January when the wave direction was from east-northeast to east-southeast. The net longshore sediment transport rate estimated during the study period was 2.6x10^5 m^3/year in the northern sector and 1.5x10^5 m^3/year in the southern sector with higher rate attributed to monsoon than the non-monsoon. Sediment budget results in deciphering the causes of erosion (-1.27×10^4 m^3/yr) in northern sector and accretion (3.91×10^4 m^3/yr) in southern sector in the wave-dominated Chennai beach.


2021 ◽  
Vol 1 (3) ◽  
pp. 87-94
Author(s):  
Dayanis Montero Borges ◽  
Humberto Varona ◽  
Marcelo Alonso

This datapaper supports the use of a database generated from wavefield simulations with the WAVEWATCH III model in waters off the coast of Rio Grande do Sul in the South Atlantic Ocean. In the WAVEWATCH III simulations, three domains are generated as a part of a numerical experiment to set up the best configuration. This database includes all input and output files for the two best-fit simulations. Bathymetry and wind files at 10 m above the surface are available as input files. The period of simulation and non-stationary wind data input corresponds to March 22-28, 2016. The date was chosen because it is related to the passage of a cold front through the area of interest. The different parameterizations used and with which good results were obtained in the simulations with the model are also described. The WAVEWATCH III output files contain the spatial and temporal distribution of the wavefield in the area of interest, as well as the outputs for point locations consistent with the location of on-site records. For the two best-fit domains, the following variables were obtained: mean wind speed (m s-1), sea-air temperature difference (°C), wave height (m), mean wavelength (m), mean wave period (s), mean wave direction (degrees), mean directional propagation (degrees) and friction velocity (m s-1). All these variables are provided in NetCDF format and will serve as a reference for future wave modeling work in the region, and the results will be able to be compared with those obtained in the database.


2021 ◽  
Vol 930 (1) ◽  
pp. 012056
Author(s):  
H Khoirunnisa ◽  
M Wibowo ◽  
W Hendriyono ◽  
K S Wardani

Abstract This research aims to assess the hydrodynamics condition of the water area for site selection of that purpose. The bathymetry data of Karimunjawa Island were obtained from the 1986 Pushidrosal bathymetric map. Furthermore, wind direction, wind speed, wave height and direction, and tidal data around the waters of Karimunjawa Island were input in hydrodynamic and spectral modelling using MIKE 21 HD-SW. West monsoon and east monsoon were applied in this model. The validation result between hydrodynamic modelling and Tidal Model Driver (TMD) data is 98.89%. The surface elevation around the domain has a range of 0.072 - 0.5 m. The average water depth at the seaplane dock plan is about 2.5 m from MSL. The hydrodynamic modeling results show that the surface elevation value at the seaplane dock plan location shows that the sea level is between -0.467 to 0.473 m (in both west and east season). The current velocity at the planned seaplane dock site in both the west and east monsoons is relatively slow (<0.185 m/s). The dominant wave direction is southeastward in the east and west monsoons. The dominant Hs is about 0.23 – 0.6 m in both seasons. At the planned water operating area, the average of Hs is 0.23 m - 0.36 m. Generally, this location fulfills the criteria of site selection for the flight test location of N219A.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christa Ringers ◽  
Stephan Bialonski ◽  
Jan N Hansen ◽  
Mert Ege ◽  
Benjamin M Friedrich ◽  
...  

Motile cilia are hair-like cell extensions present in multiple organs of the body. How cilia coordinate their regular beat in multiciliated epithelia to efficiently displace fluids remains elusive. Here, we propose the zebrafish nose as an accessible model system to study ciliary dynamics, due to its conserved properties with other ciliated tissues and its high availability for non-invasive imaging. We reveal that cilia are locally synchronized, and that the size of local synchronization domains increases with the viscosity of the surrounding medium. Despite this merely local synchronization, we observe global patterns of traveling metachronal waves across the multiciliated epithelium. Intriguingly, these global wave direction patterns are conserved across individual fish, but different for left and right nose, revealing a chiral asymmetry of metachronal coordination. In conclusion, we show that local synchronization together with tissue-scale cilia alignment shape global wave patterns in multiciliated epithelia.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1258
Author(s):  
Viet Thanh Nguyen ◽  
Minh Tuan Vu ◽  
Chi Zhang

Two-dimensional models of large spatial domain including Cua Lo and Cua Hoi estuaries in Nghe An province, Vietnam, were established, calibrated, and verified with the observed data of tidal level, wave height, wave period, wave direction, and suspended sediment concentration. The model was then applied to investigate the hydrodynamics, cohesive sediment transport, and the morphodynamics feedbacks between two estuaries. Results reveal opposite patterns of nearshore currents affected by monsoons, which flow from the north to the south during the northeast (NE) monsoon and from the south to the north during the southeast (SE) monsoon. The spectral wave model results indicate that wave climate is the main control of the sediment transport in the study area. In the NE monsoon, sediment from Cua Lo port transported to the south generates the sand bar in the northern bank of the Cua Hoi estuary, while sediment from Cua Hoi cannot be carried to the Cua Lo estuary due to the presence of Hon Ngu Island and Lan Chau headland. As a result, the longshore sediment transport from the Cua Hoi estuary to the Cua Lo estuary is reduced and interrupted. The growth and degradation of the sand bars at the Cua Hoi estuary have a great influence on the stability of the navigation channel to Ben Thuy port as well as flood drainage of Lam River.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (11) ◽  
pp. 1230
Author(s):  
Min Roh ◽  
Nary La ◽  
Sang-Myeong Oh ◽  
Kiryong Kang ◽  
Youjung Oh ◽  
...  

In this study, we constructed a rapid refresh wave forecast model using sea winds from the Korea Local Analysis and Prediction System as input forcing data. The model evaluated the changes in forecast performance considering the influence of input wind–wave interaction, which is an important factor that determines forecast performance. The forecast performance was evaluated by comparing the forecast results of the wave model with the significant wave height, wave period, and wave direction provided by moored buoy observations. During the typhoon season, the model tended to underestimate the conditions, and the root mean square error (RMSE) was reduced by increasing the wind and wave interaction parameter. The best value of the interaction parameter that minimizes the RMSE was determined based on the results of the numerical experiments performed during the typhoon season. The forecast error in the typhoon season was higher than that observed in the analysis results of the non-typhoon season. This can be attributed to the variations of the wave energy caused by the relatively strong typhoon wind field considered in the wave model.


Fluids ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 6 (11) ◽  
pp. 397
Author(s):  
Muhammad Zikra ◽  
Shaskya Salsabila ◽  
Kriyo Sambodho

The Port of 2 × 110 MW Nagan Raya Coal Fired Steam Power Plant is one of the facilities constructed by the State Electricity Company in Aceh Province, Indonesia. During its operation, which began in 2013, the port has dealt with large amounts of sedimentation within the port and ship entrances. The goal of this study is to mitigate the sedimentation problem in the Nagan Raya port by evaluating the effect of maintenance dredging. Field measurements, and hydrodynamic and sediment transport modeling analysis, were conducted during this study. Evaluation of the wind data showed that the dominant wind direction is from south to west. Based on the analysis of the wave data, the dominant wave direction is from the south to the west. Therefore, the wave-induced currents in the surf zone were from south to north. Based on the analysis of longshore sediment transport, the supply of sediments to Nagan Raya port was estimated to be around 40,000–60,000 m3 per year. Results from the sediment model showed that sedimentation of up to 1 m was captured in areas of the inlet channel of Nagan Raya port. The use of a passing system for sand is one of the sedimentation management solutions proposed in this study. The dredged sediment material around the navigation channel was dumped in a dumping area in the middle of the sea at a depth of 11 m, with a distance of 1.5 km from the shoreline. To obtain a greater maximum result, the material disposal distance should be dumped further away, at least at a depth of 20 m or a distance of 20 miles from the coastline.


2021 ◽  
pp. 104025
Author(s):  
T. Chataigner ◽  
M.L. Yates ◽  
N. Le Dantec ◽  
M.D. Harley ◽  
K.D. Splinter ◽  
...  

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