The influence of Ukrainian embroidery on the fashion of the 60s of the twentieth century

The purpose of the article is to highlight a little-studied problem in domestic science, which is associated with the production of fashionable clothing and the use of traditional Ukrainian embroidery in the 60s of the twentieth century. The methodology is based on the principles of historical, art history, culturological analysis, and methods of systematization of factual material and typological analysis. The personal contribution of fashion designers in the rise of artistic embroidery in the 60s of the twentieth century is revealed. The scientific novelty lies in the disclosure of historical sources, artifacts that testify to the presence of ornamental embroidered elements in the decoration of Ukrainian women's clothing of this period. The production of clothes with embroidery on the territory of Ukraine is connected with shops, artel, and industrial productions. The state of Ukrainian embroidery with the use of modern fashion trends in the clothing of the 60s of the twentieth century is analyzed. Conclusions. Having conducted a study of fashion trends in Ukrainian clothing of the 60s of the twentieth century. and summarizing the art of its production, we can note the following: the production of compositionally completed collections of contemporary clothing, developed through the efforts of creative associations of fashion houses, light, and local industry, taking into account national Ukrainian traditions, took place to meet the demand of growing population and its cultural education. The implementation and realization of exquisite masterful, thematic ideas coordinated and directed the activities of the garment, textile, and knitwear industries. The national costume and its stylized elements with traditional motifs of Ukrainian embroidery attracted special and great attention to the fashion of the past times of the XX century. Key words: embroidery, clothes, technology, industry, fashion designers.

Fashion designers' attitude-behaviour inconsistencies towards a sustainable business model: a neutralisation theory perspective

PurposeFashion designers in South Africa remain ambivalent in embracing sustainable fashion. This study examines the role of neutralisation techniques on attitude towards sustainable fashion. The study was conducted in South Africa, an emerging market known for water scarcity and pollution emanating from the textile industry.Design/methodology/approachA structured questionnaire was used to collect cross-sectional data from a sample of 590 fashion designers using a web-based online survey. Study constructs were drawn from the neutralisation theory and theory of planned behaviour.FindingsStandard multiple regression analysis results identified denial of injury, appeal to higher loyalties and external locus of control as the major rationalisation techniques influencing South African designers' negative attitudes towards sustainable fashion.Research limitations/implicationsResearch was conducted in South Africa where the concept of sustainable fashion is still at developmental stages. The generalisation of the study findings may be enhanced by extending the study to other markets with a fully developed market for sustainable fashion.Practical implicationsThe study results underscore the necessity of reducing social, structural and institutional barriers associated with the adoption of sustainable fashion. This study provides input towards efforts to develop attitude change strategies to stimulate designers to embrace sustainable fashion.Originality/valueThe research study contributes to theory, practice and future research.

Contemporary customized clothes using folk motifs

More and more consumers are attracted to fashion brands that make an extra effort to offer them personalized experiences. The unique details, as well as the complexity of the decorative elements of the folk costume inspire the fashion designers to return to the folk motifs, which they reinterpret and resize while integrating them in the contemporary space, offering models adapted to the customers’ tastes, sizes and preferences and at the same time to make mass customization a profitable production. This study addresses the issue of personalizing clothing items with folk motifs. In order to collect information on consumer satisfaction regarding the use of folk motifs in contemporary clothing, an online survey about the clothing available on the market and about personalized clothes with folk motifs was developed and applied. The survey was applied to a number of 548 respondents from Romania, Bulgaria, Canada and Spain. To determine the correlation between the answers to the questions for the four countries and to analyse the answers in each country, the PCA method was used. Based on the answers to the survey, certain motifs from the folk costumes were selected, reinterpreted in a modern way and inserted in two fabric patterns. The fabrics were produced on a Loom Jacquard SMIT Textile GS900.

Fashion Business Sustainability for Fashion Designers in the Indonesian Fashion Industry

The fashion industry remains as one of the most highly competitive industries where many fashion designers may find it difficult to establish sustainable fashion businesses. Navigating through the fashion business and ensuring business success, growth and long-term sustainability were generally considered to be the ultimate goal and biggest challenge many fashion designers continue to struggle with. This study was aimed to determine all key factors that are integral and contribute to fashion business sustainability by presenting findings provided by three Indonesian fashion designer’s responses to the issue of fashion business sustainability, the various challenges, and what factors are needed to ensure a long lasting through semi-structured in-depth interviews. Overall findings revealed the need for fashion designers to have an entrepreneurial mindset and for fashion businesses to possess all sustainable business key factors in various aspects ranging from design, business and the various qualities from the fashion designer themselves, while also taking account of the external state which was set in the Indonesian fashion industry for business sustainability and organic business growth. Fashion designers who controls all these factors will have a significantly higher chance of sustainability while competing with other fashion businesses.

Folded Electronic Textiles: Weaving, Knitting, Pleating and Coating Three-dimensional Sensor Structures

This paper reports findings from a one-month design research project, in which four textile and fashion designers engaged in collaborative making on technical and artistic knowledge embedded in ‘folds and folding’. Textile technologies and construction methods to design, fabricate and analyze three-dimensional dynamic materiality in electronic textiles (e-textiles) were explored. The focus is on sensor structures achieved by knitting, weaving, pleating and coating techniques. Measurements of electrical resistance between one and 36 sensing areas per sample demonstrate the added value of folds integrated into textiles sensor structures, which are high resolution and soft touch (weave), high responsiveness to small movements (pleat), combining stretch and pressure in one movement (knit) and broadening aesthetics and choice for sensing materials (coating). Detailed information on design, fabrication and experimental results is provided as Supplementary Material to this article.

THE INTERRELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ARCHITECTURE AND FASHION

The researchers studied the interplay between architecture and fashion and highlighted the common ground between architecture and fashion design. To enhance visual communication and interest. The study consisted of four chapters, the first of which focused on its methodological framework, in which its problem was determined by the following question: And what's the relationship between them? The purpose of the study was to uncover the relationship between architecture and fashion design and their mutual influence. The second focused on the relationship between fashion design and architectural design characteristics, while the third concerned fashion designers affected by architecture in their work either. (Research procedures) The research methods adopted by the researchers included: By describing the forms of architecture and analyzing the relationship between architecture and fashion design, being a suitable methodology for studying them and completing the study, the researchers identified a set of results that were consistent with the importance, purpose and purpose of the study. 1. The characteristics of architecture and costumes, whether parallel or interrelated or based on a mutual relationship, were originally established for the comfort and beauty of man depending on the dimensions of his body. The study was then concluded with conclusions, recommendations and a list of sources‎.

Developments of Adapted Clothing for Physically Disabled People with Scoliosis Using 3D Geometrical Model

Scoliosis is a deformity of the spine that causes disorders of the rib cage. This makes it difficult to design clothes for affected people without following the shape of the rib cage. This paper presents a new 3D clothing design method based on virtual reality for women with physical disabilities such as scoliosis. The current design method is a variation of the draping techniques commonly used by fashion designers to design clothes on a mannequin or human body. However, the current design process highly considers the skeleton and body scan of the person. The skeleton is used to detect the anthropometric points of the patient, while the body scan allows us to detect the morphological contours at the onset of scoliosis. Thus, both allow us to accurately track the patient’s morphology and atypical shape. The position of the morphological contours is indicated by reference marks that are closely associated with the skeleton. This helps to automatically adapt the garment to the evolution of the patient’s pathology over time. The process of creating the 3D garment was processed based on the 3D model of the thorax, which helps to easily determine the anthropometric points and the morphological curves. Using this data, the geometrical model of the garment could be created with 3D ease allowances. The 2D block pattern was then obtained by flattening the 3D patterns using flattening methods. Finally, various tests were performed considering the evolution of pathology to predict the future garment. These tests validate our geometrical model of the garment with 3D ease allowances by comparing the results with previous work.

Sri Lankan Fashion Designers: Self-Directed Learning in the Apparel Industry

The Sri Lankan apparel industry is currently in transition from apparel assembly to manufacturing original designs as a value addition. Design teams work closely with Western brands, buyers and designers to offer advanced creative and technical design services. The purpose of this article is to investigate how Sri Lankan designers acquire personal, high-value fashion knowledge and design skills in this crucial time of industry transition. The study adopts a qualitative approach using semi-structured interviews conducted with 28 fashion design and product development professionals in the industry. Based on an inductive thematic analysis, the study finds that Sri Lankan designers’ acquisition of high-value fashion knowledge and skills comes primarily through their self-directed learning. This study proposes the Designers’ Self-Directed Learning Cycle to illustrate how designers’ learning happens and is applied in their professional practice. The findings are significant in understanding the designers’ practice in the export-oriented apparel value chain.