FASHIONGRAPHICS AND COSTUME DESIGN IN UKRAINE IN THE 1920s

The purposeof the paperis to study the fashion peculiarities in Ukraine based on the analysis of fashion graphics of “Fashion Magazine”, which was published in Kyiv and Kharkiv in the 1920s. The events of fashion life in Ukraine are considered in the context of current world fashion trends. Methodology. The methods of historical-chronological and comparative analysis, methods of visual information systematization have been used in the paper. Results. The social conditions for the first specialized fashion publication in Ukraine have been identified.The description of fashion trends of the 1920s has been given based on the analysis of women’s clothing models presented on the pages of “Fashion magazine”.The analysis of changes in Western fashion during the twenties in the Soviet Union has been carried out.Featured artistic expression means of fashion graphics, compositional solutions of magazine centerfolds have been considered. The connection between popular fashion images and events in the Ukrainian republic has been shown, namely: changes in the women’s role in society, the spread of sports, new formats of leisure. The reasons for the transformation of the figurative language of fashion graphics of the early twentieth century have been generalized, the connection of the magazine fashion graphics evolution with the general changes in the world fine arts has been analyzed.The scientific novelty is that there have been introduced the facts of publishing the first domestic magazines on fashion, analyzed the specifics of fashion in Ukraine in the 1920s on the basis of fashion graphics samples from Ukrainian magazines for the first time in the context of Ukrainian fashion history. The practical significance lies in the fact that the information offered in the article fills certain gaps in the Ukrainian fashion history.The practical works of artists who created relevant fashion images in the early twentieth century by means of graphics can be used today both in the process of designing new clothes and in order to promote new costume design ideas.

Personalized Clothing Design Support System for Special Crowds Based on Artificial Intelligence Technology

In today’s society, people’s demand for personalized clothing is increasing, and they are increasingly pursuing traditional elements. Therefore, many fashion designers will incorporate folk elements into the traditional clothing design concepts to meet this demand. Sc a kind of computer technology Personalized auxiliary design software is produced. The function of this software is to use the MVC architecture to create system function modules, and then use the Kinect-based three-dimensional scanning system to model the human body, so as to clearly understand and obtain human body models with different characteristics. Take the folk art elements of opera as an example, integrate the opera elements into the costume design and save it in the database of the system. Under the action of the virtual algorithm, the personalized costume is matched with the human body model, which completes the costume design. Personalized design, and better design results can be obtained through this auxiliary design software.

Application of Information Technology and Artificial Intelligence in Computer Assisted Costume Design

Costume Design and information technology can be used as a collision between fashion and information technology. As a course that combines artistry and technology, costume and costume design have higher and higher teaching requirements for technical environment on the basis of art display, and attaches equal importance to students’ innovative thinking and practical ability in the teaching process. Compared with traditional teacher-centered, only attach importance to knowledge and neglecting the students’ ability development of teaching mode can meet the demand for professional talents, and reasonable use of the information technology as the guide, give full play to student’s main body role, respect students’ individual differences, according to the diverse learning needs of students, In order to better train out of the garment industry needs high-quality talents.

Research of Computer Aided Costume Design Application with Image Processing and Drawing Software

Computer aided design (CAD) is a practical course in the major of costume design. In the future, computer information technology will be more mature, the use of computers is more popular. The computer technology assisted in costume design specialty can better promote the development of this specialty to follow the trend. The use of computer-aided technology in costume design can enrich the content and make the skill training more real. However, to break through the existing problems, it is necessary to make the teaching of professional courses keep pace with the development of the industry. The use of computer aided technology in primary school teaching will also bring impact from the traditional clothing teaching. We will further promote teaching reform and improve teaching quality.

The Relationship of Costume Design in Film With the Interest of Young Adult Women as Fashion Product Consumers in Indonesia

This study discusses the relationship between costume design in films and the interest of the audience, especially young adult women, triggers of their interest in similar fashion products as consumers by using outfit styles from three films, The Devil Wears Prada (2006), Sex and The City: The Movie (2008) and Crazy Rich Asians (2018), which were selected through a questionnaire answered by 20 experts in the fashion field. The analysis was conducted on 258 young adult women (18-24 years old) domiciled in Indonesia through a questionnaire to find out their perceptions and preferences on outfit styles from the costume designs in those three films. Based on this analysis, it can be seen that if the audience is interested and feels that the outfit worn by the character fits them, then they will have the desire to wear fashion products that are similar to the appearance of the costume design in the film.

Research on clothing patterns generation based on multi-scales self-attention improved generative adversarial network

PurposeClothing patterns play a dominant role in costume design and have become an important link in the perception of costume art. Conventional clothing patterns design relies on experienced designers. Although the quality of clothing patterns is very high on conventional design, the input time and output amount ratio is relative low for conventional design. In order to break through the bottleneck of conventional clothing patterns design, this paper proposes a novel way based on generative adversarial network (GAN) model for automatic clothing patterns generation, which not only reduces the dependence of experienced designer, but also improve the input-output ratio.Design/methodology/approachIn view of the fact that clothing patterns have high requirements for global artistic perception and local texture details, this paper improves the conventional GAN model from two aspects: a multi-scales discriminators strategy is introduced to deal with the local texture details; and the self-attention mechanism is introduced to improve the global artistic perception. Therefore, the improved GAN called multi-scales self-attention improved generative adversarial network (MS-SA-GAN) model, which is used for high resolution clothing patterns generation.FindingsTo verify the feasibility and effectiveness of the proposed MS-SA-GAN model, a crawler is designed to acquire standard clothing patterns dataset from Baidu pictures, and a comparative experiment is conducted on our designed clothing patterns dataset. In experiments, we have adjusted different parameters of the proposed MS-SA-GAN model, and compared the global artistic perception and local texture details of the generated clothing patterns.Originality/valueExperimental results have shown that the clothing patterns generated by the proposed MS-SA-GAN model are superior to the conventional algorithms in some local texture detail indexes. In addition, a group of clothing design professionals is invited to evaluate the global artistic perception through a valence-arousal scale. The scale results have shown that the proposed MS-SA-GAN model achieves a better global art perception.

Superheroines and Sexism: Female Representation in the Marvel Cinematic Universe

The Marvel Cinematic Universe (MCU) is the highest-grossing film franchise of all time and since the premiere of Iron Man in 2008, it has risen to fame as a source of science-fiction entertainment. Sexism in the film industry often goes brushed aside but the widespread success of Marvel Studios calls attention to their treatment of gender roles. This paper explores the progression of six female superheroes in the MCU and what effect feminist movements have had on their roles as well as upcoming productions in the franchise. This paper used an interdisciplinary, mixed-methods design that studied movie scripts and screen time graphs. 14 MCU movies were analyzed through a feminist film theory lens and whenever a female character of interest was chosen, notes were taken on aspects including, but not limited to, dialogue, costume design, and character relationships. My findings showed that females in the MCU are heavily sexualized by directors, costume designers, and even their male co-stars. As powerful as some of these women were found to be, it was concluded that Marvel lacks in female inclusivity. Marvel’s upcoming productions, many of which are female-focused, still marginalize the roles of their superheroines which is a concern for the future of the film industry. Marvel is just one franchise but this study shows how their treatment of female characters uphold patriarchal structures and perpetuate harmful stereotypes that need to be corrected in the film industry as a whole.

An Outsider’s Eye: The Art of Designing for Theatre

Part memoir, part theatre history, in this illustrated essay Joe Vaněk invites us to an inside-view on the design process. Choosing key performances of European plays (Brecht, Ibsen) adapted by Irish writers, Vaněk takes us through the thought processes and work practices that bring a play from page to stage, with descriptions and photographs to illustrate his design choices and thinking. Additionally, he offers us insights into working with Irish playwrights who examine Ireland’s relationship to Europe, for example in his designs for Frank McGuinness’s Innocence: The life of Caravaggio, and the work of Brian Friel and Hugo Hamilton. Vaněk traces his own influences, from the theatre work of the Czech designer Josef Svoboda to painters, architecture, and landscape. His reflections reveal the complexity of the role of the designer and the intricate workings of theatre practice Keywords: Theatre design, costume design, Irish playwrights, Brian Friel, Frank McGuinness, Hugo Hamilton, Gate Theatre

The Birth of a Hollywood Spectacle: Visual Expression and Narrative Functions of Costumes in Cecil B. DeMille’s Silent Films

The article explores the functions of film costumes in the works of Cecil B. DeMille, the American film director, whose pictures of the late 1910s and early 1920s are notable for their artistic achievements in the field of set and costume design. On the material of certain films from his “matrimonial cycle”, the author analyses the narrative and spectacular functions of costumes, while making an emphasis on the director’s role in the development of the artistic uniqueness and visual extravagance of Hollywood films of this period. The films of this cycle display some key strategies in film costume function- ing and design methods that would be adopted by the Hollywood film industry to become the new production standard in this field.