Fabric semantics as a basis of Mordovian embroidery

Introduction. The semantics of the fabric of the traditional costume is one of the underdeveloped topics in modern humanitarian studies. Meanwhile, the fabric can be interpreted as a chronicle of the history of culture. Being a man-made and material on which embroidery arose and developed, it was used in the customs and rituals of many peoples, including the Mordovians. The article deals with the semantics of the fabric of traditional Mordovian clothing, decorated with embroidery. Materials and Methods. The work investigates the museum collections of the Republic of Mordovia, the data from written sources of the Russian Geographical Society, archaeological research of Mordovian artefacts. The methodological basis is the comparative-historical, structural-semiotic and phenomenological approaches to the material. Results and Discussion. The analysis of the semantics of the fabric, decorated with the embroidery, and the conditions in which it was formed, makes it possible to reveal the intention of the master, the creator of the ethnoculture. It defined the various utilitarian, magical functions performed by canvas (hemp) and linen fabrics of traditional Mordovian clothing in the culture of the people, the economic, moral meanings of the fabric used in oral folk art. The Mordovians had woolen fabric as the most important material that replaced leather and fur in the manufacture of clothing and changed the appearance of the person wearing the costume. Its importance was recorded in many concepts of the Mordovian language, in folk ideas about wool as a source of magical properties. Conclusion. The semantics of the fabric of a traditional Mordovian costume reflects a person’s ideas about harsh natural conditions, the real world and the need to master it through creative activity in accordance with the laws of the traditional worldview. Fabric is also capable of transferring updated and relevant symbolic information about diligence, accuracy, moral qualities of a person, which could also be a means of regulating norms of behavior in society.

Study on the process of knitted woolen fabric treatment based on oxygen low-temperature plasma

The oxygen low-temperature plasma (LTP) treatment on knitted woolen fabric was carried out to investigate the changes of shrinkage resistance, bursting strength and moisture absorption of knitted woolen fabric after treatment. In addition, the effects of different levels of exposure time, treatment power and gas flow rate on the change of felting rate, bursting strength and moisture absorption of knitted woolen fabric in the process of LTP were investigated. The results show that LTP treatment can improve the anti-felt, bursting strength, moisture absorption of knitted woolen fabric. According to the analysis of variance, in the process of LTP treatment, the exposure time is the primary factor that affects the degree of change in the hygroscopicity of knitted woolen fabric, and treatment power is the main factor that affects the degree of change in the shrinkage resistance of knitted woolen fabric. Finally, under the experimental conditions, the best treatment process of knitted woolen fabric by oxygen low-temperature plasma is 20 min, 150 sccm and 400 w.

Study on Woolen Clothing and Pattern Unearthed in Zagunluk Cemetery in Qiemo County of Xinjiang

Located in the western border of the motherland, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region used to be the hub of the ancient Silk Road. Known as Western Regions, it has created splendid multi-ethnic cultures with distinctive geographical features. With its multiple archeological resources, there are many exquisite historic relics unearthed here, which shocked the world, with woolen fabrics as the most characteristic and the earliest fabrics. Zagunluk Cemetery witnessed sufficient unearthed fabrics in quantities and types. This paper focuses on woolen clothing and accessories and their patterns unearthed in Zagunluk Cemetery, Qiemo County, Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region. Zagunluke woolen clothing and accessories reflect the circumstances of evolving weaving technologies in ancient Xinjiang. These woolen clothing and accessories were daily necessities of ancestors of Zagunluk, witnessing their material and cultural life. This paper analyzes about 20 typical woolen clothes and accessories, attempting to find out the characteristics of woolen fabric patterns and their formation background.