Biophysical and Subject-Based Assessment of the Effects of Topical Moisturizer Usage on Xerotic Skin—Part I: EpsilonTM 2D Skin Hydration

As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher, it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. This work was aimed at understanding how two-dimensional (2D) skin hydration mapping can be used to describe skin properties beyond the traditional ‘single number’ approach to skin hydration. Two-dimensional skin hydration measurement data were collected at baseline and after 1 week of in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product. In addition, subject feedback regarding their skin condition obtained during the study was collected and assessed. Dividing the 2D hydration measurement device images into zones of different electrical permittivity scores enabled analysis of different aspects of the skin compared with traditional electrical skin hydration measurements. Improvement in skin flexibility as a result of use of the topical test product was demonstrated. Complete description of the skin’s hydration state through the creation of hydration histograms to describe its electrical characteristics was performed. Subject feedback data showed improvements in aspects of skin assessed using 2D hydration measurement.

Formula Development of Red Palm (Elaeis guineensis) Fruit Extract Loaded with Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Containing Creams and Its Anti-Aging Efficacy in Healthy Volunteers

Palm fruits (Elaeis guineensis) comprise antioxidants that can be used as skin care agents. This study developed a cosmeceutical cream containing E. guineensis extract, loaded with solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs), and assessed its efficacy on female volunteers. The E. guineensis extract exhibited a good antioxidant activity with high levels of vitamin E, β-carotene, and palmitic acid. Day and night creams containing E. guineensis fruit extract, loaded with SLNs, were formulated and exhibited acceptable physical characteristics and good stability. Subsequently, their clinical efficacy and safety were evaluated on female volunteers. Both creams were non-irritating and had good cutaneous compatibility. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin elasticity, melanin index, and skin texture were measured before and 30 min after the first application, as well as after 7, 14, and 30 days of daily application. A satisfactory survey was implemented using a questionnaire, and volunteer satisfaction scores were high for the product’s performance. Overall, the results showed that skin hydration, TEWL, cutaneous elasticity, and melanin index were improved, compared to the baseline data, after 30 days. Thus, the formulated facial day and night creams made the skin moist, reduced wrinkles, increased elasticity, and cleared the skin to the consumers’ satisfaction.

Influence of Massage and Skin Hydration on Dermal Penetration Efficacy of Nile Red from Petroleum Jelly—An Unexpected Outcome

The study aimed at comparing the influence of direct and indirect skin hydration as well as massage on the dermal penetration efficacy of active compounds. Nile red was used as a lipophilic drug surrogate and was incorporated into Vaseline (petroleum jelly). The formulation was applied with and without massage onto either dry skin or pre-hydrated, moist skin. It was expected that the occlusive properties of Vaseline in combination with massage and enhanced skin hydration would cause a superposition of penetration-enhancing effects, which should lead to a tremendous increase in the dermal penetration efficacy of the lipophilic drug surrogate. Results obtained were diametral to the expectations, and various reasons were identified for causing the effect observed. Firstly, it was found that Vaseline undergoes syneresis after topical application. The expulsed mineral oil forms a film on top of the skin, and parts of it penetrate into the skin. The lipophilic drug surrogate, which is dissolved in the mineral oil, enters the skin with the mineral oil, i.e., via a solvent drag mechanism. Secondly, it was found that massage squeezes the skin and causes the expulsion of water from deeper layers of the SC. The expulsed water can act as a water barrier that prevents the penetration of lipophilic compounds and promotes the penetration of hydrophilic compounds. Based on the data, it is concluded that dermal penetration is a complex process that cannot only be explained by Fick’s law. It is composed of at least three different mechanisms. The first mechanism is the penetration of active ingredients with their solvents into the skin (convection, solvent drag), the second mechanism is the penetration of the active ingredient via passive diffusion, and the third mechanism can involve local penetration phenomena, e.g., the formation of liquid menisci and particle-associated penetration enhancement, which occur upon the evaporation of water and/or other ingredients from the formulation on top of the skin.

Application of Blue Honeysuckle Powder Obtained by an Innovative Method of Low-Temperature Drying in Skincare Face Masks

Traditional technologies applied for obtaining plant raw materials for cosmetic production are based primarily on high-level processing, which is reflected in the qualitative composition of the resulting materials. By using low-temperature drying, it is possible to retain in the raw materials a range of valuable ingredients. In this study, blue honeysuckle powder was used as an ingredient of cosmetic face masks. The stability of the masks was evaluated. Dynamic viscosity, yield point and texture analysis of the cosmetics was performed. The color of the emulsions and the level of skin hydration after face mask application was determined. Emulsions were found to be stable. A decrease in dynamic viscosity of the emulsions as a function of increasing concentrations of the additive and under the conditions of rising rotational speed were observed. Similarly, an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle in the emulsions resulted in a decrease in the value of the yield point. Based on the results, it can be stated that the addition of blue honeysuckle caused a decrease in hardness of the masks, while the opposite trend was observed for adhesive force. It was found that an increase in the concentration of blue honeysuckle gave a reddish-yellow color to the samples. Corneometric assessment confirmed proper skin hydration after the application of the emulsions.

Enhanced Skin Performance of Emulgel vs. Cream as Systems for Topical Delivery of Herbal Actives (Immortelle Extract and Hemp Oil)

Immortelle, as rich source of chlorogenic acid and the phloroglucinol alpha-pyrone compound arzanol, possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, affects cell regeneration, and has positive effect on many skin conditions. Hemp oil, characterized by a favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio, as well as an abundance of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, participates in immunoregulation and also act as an anti-inflammatory. In the present study, we examined the effect on the skin of creams and emulgels with immortelle extract and hemp oil, by comparing them to placebo samples and a non-treated control. A long-term in vivo study of biophysical skin characteristics, which lasted for 30 days, was conducted on 25 healthy human volunteers. Measured parameters were electrical capacitance of the stratum corneum, trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin pH and erythema index. Further, a sensory study was carried out in which the panelists had to choose descriptive terms for sensory attributes in questionnaire. The results showed that application of all preparations led to increase of skin hydration and TEWL reduction, while the skin was not irritated, and its normal pH was not disrupted. This study also showed importance of the carrier. Not only were emulgels described by panelists as preparations with better sensory properties, there was a significant difference between the skin hydration effect of emulgel with immortelle extract and hemp oil compared to the placebo emulgel, which was not the case with creams. Such findings indicated enhanced delivery of herbal active substances from emulgel compared to the cream.

Thermodynamic stability, in-vitro permeability, and in-silico molecular modeling of the optimal Elaeis guineensis leaves extract water-in-oil nanoemulsion

Nanoemulsion is a delivery system used to enhance bioavailability of plant-based compounds across the stratum corneum. Elaeis guineensis leaves are rich source of polyphenolic antioxidants, viz. gallic acid and catechin. The optimal E. guineensis leaves extract water-in-oil nanoemulsion was stable against coalescence, but it was under significant influence of Ostwald ripening over 90 days at 25 °C. The in-vitro permeability revealed a controlled and sustained release of the total phenolic compounds (TPC) of EgLE with a cumulative amount of 1935.0 ± 45.7 µgcm−2 after 8 h. The steady-state flux and permeation coefficient values were 241.9 ± 5.7 µgcm−2 h−1 and 1.15 ± 0.03 cm.h−1, respectively. The kinetic release mechanism for TPC of EgLE was best described by the Korsmeyer–Peppas model due to the highest linearity of R2 = 0.9961, indicating super case II transport mechanism. The in-silico molecular modelling predicted that the aquaporin-3 protein in the stratum corneum bonded preferably to catechin over gallic acid through hydrogen bonds due to the lowest binding energies of − 57.514 kcal/mol and − 8.553 kcal/mol, respectively. Thus, the in-silico study further verified that catechin could improve skin hydration. Therefore, the optimal nanoemulsion could be used topically as moisturizer to enhance skin hydration based on the in-silico prediction.

Aspergillus oryzae-Fermented Wheat Peptone Enhances the Potential of Proliferation and Hydration of Human Keratinocytes through Activation of p44/42 MAPK

Identifying materials contributing to skin hydration, essential for normal skin homeostasis, has recently gained increased research interest. In this study, we investigated the potential benefits and mechanisms of action of Aspergillus oryzae-fermented wheat peptone (AFWP) on the proliferation and hydration of human skin keratinocytes, through in vitro experiments using HaCaT cell lines. The findings revealed that compared to unfermented wheat peptone, AFWP exhibited an improved amino acid composition, significantly (p < 0.05) higher DPPH scavenging capability and cell proliferation activity, and reduced lipopolysaccharide-induced NO production in RAW 264.7 cells. Furthermore, we separated AFWP into eleven fractions, each ≤2 kDa; of these, fraction 4 (AFW4) demonstrated the highest efficacy in the cell proliferation assay and was found to be the key component responsible for the cell proliferation potential and antioxidant properties of AFWP. Additionally, AFW4 increased the expression of genes encoding natural moisturizing factors, including filaggrin, transglutaminase-1, and hyaluronic acid synthase 1–3. Furthermore, AFW4 activated p44/42 MAPK, but not JNK and p38 MAPK, whereas PD98059, a p44/42 MAPK inhibitor, attenuated the beneficial effects of AFW4 on the skin, suggesting that the effects of AFW4 are mediated via p44/42 MAPK activation. Finally, in clinical studies, AFW4 treatment resulted in increased skin hydration and reduced trans-epidermal water loss compared with a placebo group. Collectively, these data provide evidence that AFW4 could be used as a potential therapeutic agent to improve skin barrier damage induced by external stresses.