Statistical Properties of the Maximum Run of Irregular Sea Waves

Author(s):  
Akira Kimura
1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Akira Kimura

The probability distribution of the maximum run of irregular wave height is introduced theoretically. Probability distributions for the 2nd maximum, 3rd maximum and further maximum runs are also introduced. Their statistical properties, including the means and their confidence regions, are applied to the verification of experiments with irregular waves in the realization of a "severe sea state" in the test.


2005 ◽  
Vol 12 (5) ◽  
pp. 671-689 ◽  
Author(s):  
D. Chalikov

Abstract. A numerical model for long-term simulation of gravity surface waves is described. The model is designed as a component of a coupled Wave Boundary Layer/Sea Waves model, for investigation of small-scale dynamic and thermodynamic interactions between the ocean and atmosphere. Statistical properties of nonlinear wave fields are investigated on a basis of direct hydrodynamical modeling of 1-D potential periodic surface waves. The method is based on a nonstationary conformal surface-following coordinate transformation; this approach reduces the principal equations of potential waves to two simple evolutionary equations for the elevation and the velocity potential on the surface. The numerical scheme is based on a Fourier transform method. High accuracy was confirmed by validation of the nonstationary model against known solutions, and by comparison between the results obtained with different resolutions in the horizontal. The scheme allows reproduction of the propagation of steep Stokes waves for thousands of periods with very high accuracy. The method here developed is applied to simulation of the evolution of wave fields with large number of modes for many periods of dominant waves. The statistical characteristics of nonlinear wave fields for waves of different steepness were investigated: spectra, curtosis and skewness, dispersion relation, life time. The prime result is that wave field may be presented as a superposition of linear waves is valid only for small amplitudes. It is shown as well, that nonlinear wave fields are rather a superposition of Stokes waves not linear waves. Potential flow, free surface, conformal mapping, numerical modeling of waves, gravity waves, Stokes waves, breaking waves, freak waves, wind-wave interaction.


1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 36
Author(s):  
Akira Kimura ◽  
Akira Seyama

It has been recognized recently that large waves tend to form a group in random sea waves. Overtopping tends to occur particularly when a group of high waves attacks a sea wall. If the capacity of a storage reservoir inside the sea wall is not sufficiently large enough to store a total amount of overtopping brought about by a single group of consecutive high waves, and if a drainage facility is not large enough to pump out sufficient water from the storage reservoir before the next overtopping starts, there is a danger of flooding inside the sea wall. Hence, storage and drainage facilities should be planned to be able to cope with the total amount of overtopping produced by a single group of high waves which overtop the sea wall consecutively. The term "short-term overtopping" referred in this study is that caused by a single group of high waves (see Fig.l). This study aims to clarify the following points: (1) the statistical properties of the amount of short-term overtopping, (2) the method to evaluate a security factor inside a sea wall against flooding by overtopping and an extension of the theory to the short-term overtopping from a comparatively long sea wall.


Author(s):  
M. S. Longuet-Higgins

Many of the statistical properties of a random noise function f(t) have been derived by Rice (4); for example, the mean frequency of zero crossings and the statistical distribution of maxima and minima. These distributions have been shown to apply quite accurately to physical phenomena; in particular, when f(t) represents the height of sea waves at a certain point or the pressure at a fixed point on the sea bed (1, 3, 5).


1982 ◽  
Vol 43 (4) ◽  
pp. 585-589 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. N. Bussac ◽  
C. Meunier

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