Solitary wave run up and overtopping by a semi-implicit finite-volume shallow-water Boussinesq model

2003 ◽  
Vol 41 (6) ◽  
pp. 639-647 ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter K. Stansby
1998 ◽  
Vol 362 ◽  
pp. 157-176 ◽  
Author(s):  
AIMIN SHI ◽  
MICHELLE H. TENG ◽  
THEODORE Y. WU

Propagation of solitary waves in curved shallow water channels of constant depth and width is investigated by carrying out numerical simulations based on the generalized weakly nonlinear and weakly dispersive Boussinesq model. The objective is to investigate the effects of channel width and bending sharpness on the transmission and reflection of long waves propagating through significantly curved channels. Our numerical results show that, when travelling through narrow channel bends including both smooth and sharp-cornered 90°-bends, a solitary wave is transmitted almost completely with little reflection and scattering. For wide channel bends, we find that, if the bend is rounded and smooth, a solitary wave is still fully transmitted with little backward reflection, but the transmitted wave will no longer preserve the shape of the original solitary wave but will disintegrate into several smaller waves. For solitary waves travelling through wide sharp-cornered 90°-bends, wave reflection is seen to be very significant, and the wider the channel bend, the stronger the reflected wave amplitude. Our numerical results for waves in sharp-cornered 90°-bends revealed a similarity relationship which indicates that the ratios of the transmitted and reflected wave amplitude, excess mass and energy to the original wave amplitude, mass and energy all depend on one single dimensionless parameter, namely the ratio of the channel width b to the effective wavelength λe. Quantitative results for predicting wave transmission and reflection based on b/λe are presented.


Fluids ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 5 (3) ◽  
pp. 149
Author(s):  
Novry Erwina ◽  
Didit Adytia ◽  
Sri Redjeki Pudjaprasetya ◽  
Toni Nuryaman

Simulating discontinuous phenomena such as shock waves and wave breaking during wave propagation and run-up has been a challenging task for wave modeller. This requires a robust, accurate, and efficient numerical implementation. In this paper, we propose a two-dimensional numerical model for simulating wave propagation and run-up in shallow areas. We implemented numerically the 2-dimensional Shallow Water Equations (SWE) on a staggered grid by applying the momentum conserving approximation in the advection terms. The numerical model is named MCS-2d. For simulations of wet–dry phenomena and wave run-up, a method called thin layer is used, which is essentially a calculation of the momentum deactivated in dry areas, i.e., locations where the water thickness is less than the specified threshold value. Efficiency and robustness of the scheme are demonstrated by simulations of various benchmark shallow flow tests, including those with complex bathymetry and wave run-up. The accuracy of the scheme in the calculation of the moving shoreline was validated using the analytical solutions of Thacker 1981, N-wave by Carrier et al., 2003, and solitary wave in a sloping bay by Zelt 1986. Laboratory benchmarking was performed by simulation of a solitary wave run-up on a conical island, as well as a simulation of the Monai Valley case. Here, the embedded-influxing method is used to generate an appropriate wave influx for these simulations. Simulation results were compared favorably to the analytical and experimental data. Good agreement was reached with regard to wave signals and the calculation of moving shoreline. These observations suggest that the MCS method is appropriate for simulations of varying shallow water flow.


2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (4) ◽  
pp. 109 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liu ◽  
Shao ◽  
Ning

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.


Author(s):  
Erik Damgaard Christensen ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
Erik Asp Hansen

Wave load and wave run-up is a very important issue to offshore wind turbine foundations. These are often installed in relatively shallow water on for instance sand banks. Therefore the non-linear shoaling and subsequently the force and run-up are important to address. The paper presents a method to combine a Boussinesq model with a CFD model. This gives an accurate tool to estimate wave loads on the foundations at acceptable computational times.


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