jonswap model
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Author(s):  
Xiang Gao ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Junliang Gao

Abstract The characteristics of wave spectrum in the swell dominated seas (i.e., the Chancay Bay on the western coast of Peru) are studied based on directional wave spectra measured using the technique of acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP). According to the wave rose diagram and the measured wave spectra, this sea area is mainly affected by the swell of the southwest direction and the significant wave height is between 0.7m-2.6m. Moreover, the wave spectra feature the single-peaked spectra and the double-peaked spectra. The JONSWAP spectrum model is adopted to fit single-peaked swell spectra. A close agreement could be found between the observed and fitted spectrum parameters. Hence, the JONSWAP model can be used to describe the single-peaked swell spectra in the sea area studied in this work. As for the double-peaked spectrum, Ochi-Hubble double peak spectrum model and simplified Torsethaugen double peak spectrum model are adopted to fit the wave spectra, respectively. Comparing the fitting results of two double-peaked spectrum modal, it’s possible to conclude that the measured double-peaked spectra can be well represented by the Ochi-Hubble double peak spectrum model.


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