Laboratory study of solitary-wave transformation over bed-form roughness on fringing reefs

2013 ◽  
Vol 80 ◽  
pp. 35-48 ◽  
Author(s):  
Pablo D. Quiroga ◽  
Kwok Fai Cheung
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Laboratory Study ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Bed Form

Modeling solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs with large bottom roughness

2020 ◽  
Vol 218 ◽  
pp. 108208
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Xianjin Chen ◽  
Conghao Xu ◽  
Meijun Jia ◽  
Changbo Jiang
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes over Fringing Reefs

2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Stokes Equations ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Wave Runup ◽  
Two Phase ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Adopted Model

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

scholarly journals A Study of the Maximum Momentum Flux in the Solitary Wave Run-Up Zone over Back-Reef Slopes Based on a Boussinesq Model

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (4) ◽  
pp. 109 ◽  
Author(s):  
Liu ◽  
Shao ◽  
Ning
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Momentum Flux ◽  
Reef Flat ◽  
Slope Angle ◽  
Shock Capturing ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Back Reef ◽  
Boussinesq Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

This study utilized a shock-capturing Boussinesq model FUNWAVE-TVD to investigate the maximum momentum flux in the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef slopes. Validation results of the present model were compared to the previous version of FUNWAVE using the eddy viscosity breaking model to demonstrate the advantages of the shock-capturing method in predicting the breaking solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs. A series of numerical experiments was designed comprehensively and performed then to obtain a new formulation for the envelope of the spatial distribution of the maximum momentum flux within the solitary wave run-up zone over back-reef beaches, which is different from the one used over uniformly-sloping beaches. Finally, the effects of the variation of reef parameters (i.e., the fore-reef slope angle, reef flat width, and water depth over the reef flat) on the maximum momentum flux at the initial shoreline were investigated to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of tsunami hazard.

scholarly journals Large eddy simulation modeling of tsunami-like solitary wave processes over fringing reefs

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (6) ◽  
pp. 1281-1295 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Tiancheng He ◽  
Zhengzhi Deng ◽  
Long Chen ◽  
Huiqun Guo
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Large Eddy Simulation ◽  
Reef Slope ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Reef Crest ◽  
Primary Concern ◽  
Eddy Simulation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Large Eddy ◽  
Run Up

Abstract. Many low-lying tropical and subtropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave transformation and run-up over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional (3-D) numerical wave tank based on the computational fluid dynamics (CFD) tool OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier–Stokes equations for two-phase incompressible flow are solved, using the large eddy simulation (LES) method for turbulence closure and the volume-of-fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, reef-crest width) on the solitary wave run-up. The current and vortex evolutions associated with the breaking solitary wave around both the reef crest and the lagoon are also addressed via the numerical simulations.

A study of tsunami-like solitary wave transformation and run-up over fringing reefs

2018 ◽  
Vol 149 ◽  
pp. 142-155 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yu Yao ◽  
Fang He ◽  
Zhengjiang Tang ◽  
Zengsheng Liu
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Run Up

scholarly journals Numerical Simulation of Wave Propagation, Breaking, and Setup on Steep Fringing Reefs

Water ◽  
2018 ◽  
Vol 10 (9) ◽  
pp. 1147 ◽  
Author(s):  
Shanju Zhang ◽  
Liangsheng Zhu ◽  
Jianhua Li
Keyword(s):  
Finite Difference ◽  
Finite Volume ◽  
Boussinesq Equations ◽  
Transformation Process ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Computational Accuracy ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Eddy Viscosity Model ◽  
Fringing Reefs ◽  
Volume Method

The prediction of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics is essential in the design and construction of reef top structures on fringing reefs. To simulate the transformation process with better accuracy and time efficiency, a shock-capturing numerical model based on the extended Boussinesq equations suitable for rapidly varying topography with respect to wave transformation, breaking and runup, is established. A hybrid finite volume–finite difference scheme is used to discretize conservation form of the extended Boussinesq equations. The finite-volume method with a HLL Riemann solver is applied to the flux terms, while finite-difference discretization is applied to the remaining terms. The fourth-order MUSCL (Monotone Upstream-centered Schemes for Conservation Laws) scheme is employed to create interface variables, with in which the van-Leer limiter is adopted to improve computational accuracy on complex topography. Taking advantage of van-Leer limiter, a nested model is used to take account of both computational run time and accuracy. A modified eddy viscosity model is applied to better accommodate wave breaking on steep reef slopes. The established model is validated with laboratory measurements of regular and irregular wave transformation and breaking on steep fringing reefs. Results show the model can provide satisfactory predictions of wave height, mean water level and the generation of higher harmonics.

scholarly journals Solitary Wave Solution of Nonlinear PDEs Arising in Mathematical Physics

Open Physics ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 17 (1) ◽  
pp. 381-389
Author(s):  
Attia Rani ◽  
Nawab Khan ◽  
Kamran Ayub ◽  
M. Yaqub Khan ◽  
Qazi Mahmood-Ul-Hassan ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Solitary Wave ◽  
Mathematical Models ◽  
Solitary Wave Solution ◽  
Nonlinear Differential Equations ◽  
Soliton Solutions ◽  
Nonlinear Pdes ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Soliton Theory ◽  
Nonlinear Mathematical Models ◽  
Expansion Technique

Abstract The solution of nonlinear mathematical models has much importance and in soliton theory its worth has increased. In the present article, we have investigated the Caudrey-Dodd-Gibbon and Pochhammer-Chree equations, to discuss the physics of these equations and to attain soliton solutions. The exp(−ϕ(ζ ))-expansion technique is used to construct solitary wave solutions. A wave transformation is applied to convert the problem into the form of an ordinary differential equation. The drawn-out novel type outcomes play an essential role in the transportation of energy. It is noted that in the study, the approach is extremely reliable and it may be extended to further mathematical models signified mostly in nonlinear differential equations.

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