2018 ◽  
Vol 74 (2) ◽  
pp. I_1405-I_1410
Author(s):  
Naoyuki INUKAI ◽  
Yoshiki TSUKADA ◽  
Hiroshi YAMAMOTO
Keyword(s):  

Geosciences ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (4) ◽  
pp. 148
Author(s):  
Siegmund Nuyts ◽  
Zili Li ◽  
Kieran Hickey ◽  
Jimmy Murphy

This paper presents the observed morphological evolution of a multilevel beach cusp system in Long Strand, Co. Cork, Ireland. The surveys were carried out with an Unmanned Aerial Vehicle (UAV) system between March and September 2019. From this site, three levels of beach cusps on the beachface (i.e., lower beach level, mid beach level and upper beach level), and critical cusp parameters are reported, including cusp spacing, cusp elevation, cusp depth, and cusp amplitude. Thus far, such an extensive dataset has not previously been reported in the literature from a single site. The evolution of the different cusp parameters is then linked with the hydrodynamics in the study area, and new prediction theories are proposed for the different cusp parameters. The Lower beach level cusps (1 < z < 2.5 m Irish Transverse Mercator (ITM)) changed with every tide and appeared when surf-similarity parameter -ξ0 < 1.55. These cusps had a mean cusp spacing of λmean = 11.09 m, which are closely linked with the predictions of the self-organisation theory (p < 0.05). In contrast, the Mid beach level cusps (2.5 < z < 3.5 m ITM) are less dynamic compared to the Lower beach level cusps and can persist between spring tidal cycles. They had a mean cusp spacing of λmean = 18.17 m. The Upper beach level cusps (approximately z = 6 m ITM) are above astronomical tide levels and have a mean cusp spacing of λmean = 40.26 m. They did not change significantly over the survey period due to a lack of major storm events. These findings give a better understanding of the evolution of different cusp parameters for a multilevel beach cusp system and can be used to formulate a global theory regarding their change over time.


1989 ◽  
Vol 97 (6) ◽  
pp. 749-760 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jerry R. Miller ◽  
Suzanne M. Orbock Miller ◽  
Cindy A. Torzynski ◽  
R. Craig Kochel

Author(s):  
NADIA SENECHAL ◽  
BRUNO CASTELLE ◽  
MELANIE BIAUSQUE ◽  
FRANCE FLOC'H ◽  
TIMOTHY SCOTT ◽  
...  

2019 ◽  
Vol 416 ◽  
pp. 105984
Author(s):  
Tristan B. Guest ◽  
Alex E. Hay
Keyword(s):  

2008 ◽  
Vol 597 ◽  
pp. 145-169 ◽  
Author(s):  
NICHOLAS DODD ◽  
ADAM M. STOKER ◽  
DANIEL CALVETE ◽  
ANURAK SRIARIYAWAT

A system of shallow water equations and a bed evolution equation are used to examine the evolution of perturbations on an erodible, initially plane beach subject to normal wave incidence. Both a permeable (under Darcy's law) and an impermeable beach are considered. It is found that alongshore-periodic morphological features reminiscent of swash beach cusps form after a number of incident wave periods on both beaches. On the permeable (impermeable) beach these patterns are accretional (erosional). In both cases flow is ‘horn divergent’. Spacings of the cusps are consistent with observations, and are close to those provided by a standing synchronous linear edge wave. An analysis of the processes leading to bed change is presented. Two physical mechanisms are identified: concentration gradient and flow divergence, which are dominant in the lower and upper swash respectively, and their difference over a wave cycle leads to erosion or deposition on an impermeable beach. Infiltration enters this balance in the upper swash. A bed wave of elevation is shown to advance up the beach at the tip of the uprush, with a smaller wave of depression on the backwash. It is found that cusp horns can grow by a positive feedback mechanism stemming from decreased (increased) backwash on positive (negative) bed perturbations.


2020 ◽  
Author(s):  
Christopher Daly ◽  
France Floc'h ◽  
Luis Pedro Almeida ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
Marion Jaud

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