NUMERICAL MODELLING OF THE MORPHODYNAMICS OF THE PLOČE GRAVEL BEACH IN RIJEKA

The morphodynamics of an artificial gravel beach in the Bay of Rijeka (Ploče Beach) was analyzed. The morphological changes of the beach face were monitored through an intense situation of gravitational surface wind waves from the incident SSW direction. A numerical modeling technique was applied, after initially establishing a numerical model for wave deformation. A model for sediment transport was established based on its results. Both models were based on the finite volume method. In addition, the partial contribution of the longshore component of sediment transport was analyzed based on empirical formulae. The modeling results were verified by comparing the positions and amounts of eroded/accumulated material along the beach with the processing of terrain images in the form of point clouds. The erosion and accumulation positions of the beach sediment material, obtained by numerical model simulations, corresponded to the surveyed positions. The total volume of eroded and accumulated material based on terrain image processing corresponded to the model values.

Lithofacies, Succession, and Their Genetic Interpretation of Lacustrine Gravel Beach-Bars

Based on the elaborate dissection of profile sections parallel and vertical with the shoreline and the forming beach-bars, the unique sedimentary succession of gravel beach-bars, “ABC” sequence, has been found, and their lithofacies and origin have been explained. The A interval is composed of poorly sorted sand and gravel, formed in the wave asymmetric zone. The B interval is composed of well-sorted gravel, formed in the breaker zone. The C interval is composed of normally graded sand, formed in the surfing zone. In the actual gravel beach-bars, three intervals are often presented in a variety of combinations, such as “ABCABC,” “BCBCBC,” “ABABAB,” and others. These findings provide an important basis for the identification and distribution prediction of beach-bar reservoirs in the ancient continental lake basins.

Small-Scale Morpho-Sedimentary Dynamics in the Swash Zone of a Megatidal Mixed Sand–Gravel Beach

On mixed sand–gravel beaches, impacts from gravel- and cobble-sized grains—mobilized by the energetic shorebreak—limit the utility of in situ instrumentation for measuring the small-scale response of the beach face on wave period time scales. We present field observations of swash zone morpho-sedimentary dynamics at a steep, megatidal mixed sand–gravel beach using aeroacoustic and optical remote sensing. Coincident observations of bed level and mean surficial sediment grain size in the swash zone were obtained using an array of optical cameras paired with acoustic range sensors. Lagrangian tracking of swash-transported cobbles was carried out using an additional downward-oriented camera. The principal objective of the study was to investigate linkages between sediment grain size dynamics and swash zone morphological change. In general, data from the range sensor and camera array show that increases in bed level corresponded to increases in mean grain size. Finer-scale structures in the bed level and mean grain size signals were observable over timescales of minutes, including signatures of bands of coarse-grained material that migrated shoreward with the leading edge of the swash prior to high tide berm formation. The direction and magnitude of cobble transport in the swash varied with cross-shore position, and with the composition of the underlying bed. These results demonstrate that close-range remote sensing techniques can provide valuable insights into the roles of cobble-sized versus sand-sized particle dynamics in the swash zone on mixed sand–gravel beaches.

Analysis of morphological changes of the island of Hvar beaches using archive maps, old photographs and UAV (Eastern Adriatic Coast, Croatia)

<p>Beaches are dynamic coastal forms. However, nowadays, natural processes are intertwined with anthropogenic influences. The island of Hvar has 247 beaches from which we selected those which evolution could be studied by means of repeat photography method using archive maps and old photographs. More than 150 old photographs dating between the 1900s and 1980s have been collected and analyzed. The recent period is studied using unmanned aerial vehicles (UAV).</p><p>In total 12 beaches have been selected for precise study. The benchmarks from old photographs were marked and geolocated during the fieldwork using GNSS Trimble receiver. In November 2020, all locations were recorded by quadcopter DJI Phantom 4 Pro v2.0 with approximately 80% overlapping. On each beach, 6 - 12 ground control points (GCP), mostly benchmarks from the old photographs, were marked and measured. Data collected from UAV has been generated by photogrammetric techniques in ESRI Drone2Map software. Orthophoto and digital surface model (DSM) has been processed with a spatial resolution of 0,02 m and 0,1 m for the digital elevation model (DEM). All analyses were made using the ArcGIS Pro software. In this work, the analysis will be presented on two sites: Mina sand beach, formed in Aeolian deposits, on the northern side of the island and Mola Milna gravel beach, found on the southern side. Beaches have been studied in three points in time, in the 19<sup>th</sup>, 20<sup>th</sup> and 21<sup>st</sup> century.</p><p>On the Franciscan Cadastre (1834), Mina beach was mapped as an individual cadastral parcel with an area of 222 Klafter Quadrimeter (written in the Cadastral supplement), that is 799 m<sup>2</sup>. Recalculating in GIS we obtained a similar value, that is, 782 m<sup>2</sup>. The beach area from the beginning of the 20<sup>th</sup> century was reconstructed from old photographs and was approximated to 450 m<sup>2</sup>. Consequently, since 1834 the beach area reduced by ~43%. In 2020, the area further drops to 226 m<sup>2</sup>, so its surface diminishes by 55% since the beginning of the 20th century or even 72% from 1834.</p><p>In 1834 the Mola Milna beach was ~1073 m<sup>2</sup>, ~900 m<sup>2</sup> in the 1950s (16% smaller) and finally 802 m<sup>2 </sup>in 2020 (11% less than in the 1950s, or 27% smaller compared to 1834).</p><p>Thus, we observed that during the last two centuries the sand beach Mina reduced for more than 2/3 of its size since 1834, while the gravel beach Mola Milna reduced for around 1/3. Similar results have been observed previously on the Zogon gravel beach which lost ½ of its size since the 1960s. Even if the reconstructions of the beach area from the Cadaster maps and old photographs are less accurate than the model generated from UAV photos, obtained values clearly reveal the trend of beach erosion during the studied period.</p><p>This research was made with the support of the Croatian Science Foundation (HRZZ-IP-2019-04-9445).</p>

Modeling Impact of Intertidal Foreshore Evolution on Gravel Barrier Erosion and Wave Runup with XBeach-X

This paper provides a sensitivity analysis around how characterizing sandy, intertidal foreshore evolution in XBeach-X impacts on wave runup and morphological change of a vulnerable, composite gravel beach. The study is motivated by a need for confidence in storm-impact modeling outputs to inform coastal management policy for composite beaches worldwide. First, the model is run with the sandy settings applied to capture changes in the intertidal foreshore, with the gravel barrier assigned as a non-erodible surface. Model runs were then repeated with the gravel settings applied to obtain wave runup and erosion of the barrier crest, updating the intertidal foreshore from the previous model outputs every 5, 10 and 15 min, and comparing this with a temporally static foreshore. Results show that the scenario with no foreshore evolution led to the highest wave runup and barrier erosion. The applied foreshore evolution setting update is shown to be a large control on the distribution of freeboard values indicative of overwash hazard and barrier erosion by causing an increase (with 5 min foreshore updates applied) or a decrease (with no applied foreshore updating) in the Iribarren number. Therefore, the sandy, intertidal component should not be neglected in gravel barrier modeling applications given the risk of over- or under-predicting the wave runup and barrier erosion.