A quasi-one-dimensional asymptotic theory for non-linear water waves

1994 ◽  
Vol 28 (4) ◽  
pp. 261-296 ◽  
Author(s):  
R. Kh. Zeytounian
1994 ◽  
Vol 10 (2) ◽  
pp. 97-102 ◽  
Author(s):  
Chen Yaosong ◽  
Ling Guocan ◽  
Jiang Tao

2016 ◽  
Vol 23 (4) ◽  
pp. 455-474 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Yu. Dobrokhotov ◽  
V. V. Grushin ◽  
S. A. Sergeev ◽  
B. Tirozzi

1967 ◽  
Vol 27 (2) ◽  
pp. 399-412 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. B. Whitham

The slow dispersion of non-linear water waves is studied by the general theory developed in an earlier paper (Whitham 1965b). The average Lagrangian is calculated from the Stokes expansion for periodic wave trains in water of arbitrary depth. This Lagrangian can be used for the various applications described in the above reference. In this paper, the crucial question of the ‘type’ of the differential equations for the wave-train parameters (local amplitude, wave-number, etc.) is established. The equations are hyperbolic or elliptic according to whetherkh0is less than or greater than 1.36, wherekis the wave-number per 2π andh0is the undisturbed depth. In the hyperbolic case, changes in the wave train propagate and the characteristic velocities give generalizations of the linear group velocity. In the elliptic case, modulations in the wave train grow exponentially and a periodic wave train will be unstable in this sense; thus, periodic wave trains on water will be unstable ifkh0> 1·36, The instability of deep-water waves,kh0> 1·36, was discovered in a different way by Benjamin (1966). The relation between the two approaches is explained.


1976 ◽  
Vol 1 (15) ◽  
pp. 46
Author(s):  
Mohamed S. Nasser ◽  
John A. McCorquodale

A one-dimensional finite difference model is developed to simulate the action of long non-linear shallow water waves at a solid barrier. A damping parameter is introduced to account for the centrifugal effects in the incident wave. A stability criterion for At/Ax is suggested. The numerical predictions of reflection and run-up compare satisfactorily with experimental results.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document