Sand transport processes and bed level changes induced by two alternating laboratory swash events

AbstractThis contribution focuses on a multidisciplinary research showing the geomorphological evolution and the beach sand composition of the Tyrrhenian shoreline between Capo Suvero promontory and Gizzeria Lido village (Calabria, southern Italy). The aim of the geomorphological analysis was to reconstruct the evolutionary shoreline stages and the present-day sedimentary dynamics along approximately 6 km of coastline. The results show a general trend of beach nourishment during the period 1870–2019. In this period, the maximum shoreline accretion value was estimated equal to + 900 m with an average rate of + 6.5 m/yr. Moreover, although the general evolutionary trend is characterized by a remarkable accretion, the geomorphological analysis highlighted continuous modifications of the beaches including erosion processes. The continuous beach modifications occurred mainly between 1953 and 1983 and were caused mainly by human activity in the coastal areas and inside the hydrographic basins. The beach sand composition allowed an assessment of the mainland petrological sedimentary province and its dispersal pattern of the present coastal dynamics. Petrographic analysis of beach sands identified a lithic metamorphi-clastic petrofacies, characterized by abundant fine-grained schists and phyllites sourced from the crystalline terrains of the Coastal Range front and carried by the Savuto River. The sand is also composed of a mineral assemblage comparable to that of the Amato River provenance. In terms of framework detrital constituents of QFL (quartz:feldspars:aphanitic lithic fragments) and of essential extraclasts, such as granitoid:sedimentary:metamorphic phaneritic rock fragments (Rg:Rs:Rm), sand maturity changes moderately from backshore to shoreface, suggesting that transport processes had a little effect on sand maturity. Moreover, the modal composition suggests that the Capo Suvero promontory does not obstruct longshore sand transport from the north. Indeed, sands displaced by currents driven by storm-wave activity bypass this rocky headland.

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SHOREWARD SAND TRANSPORT OUTSIDE THE SURFZONE, NORTHERN GOLD COAST, AUSTRALIA

Coastal Engineering Proceedings ◽

10.9753/icce.v33.sediment.26 ◽

2012 ◽

Vol 1 (33) ◽

pp. 26 ◽

Cited By ~ 2

Author(s):

Dean Patterson

Keyword(s):

Surf Zone ◽

River Mouth ◽

Transport Processes ◽

Gold Coast ◽

Sand Transport ◽

Large Wave ◽

Wave Flume ◽

Shoreline Evolution ◽

The One

To date, no suitable theoretical basis has been derived to predict with reliable accuracy the shoreward sand transport under waves in the deeper water outside the surf zone. This is important for understanding the rate of recovery of beaches after major storm erosion and, in some circumstances, to quantify net shoreward supply of sand to the shoreline from the active lower shore-face below the depth of storm erosion bar development. Even a relatively low rate of long term shoreward net supply may contribute to shoreline stability where it offsets a gradient in the longshore sand transport that would otherwise lead to recession. This paper outlines the results of analysis of a 41 year dataset of beach and nearshore profile surveys to quantify annual average rates of shoreward net sand transport in 6-20m water in an area where the profiles are not in equilibrium due to the existence of a residual river mouth ebb delta bar lobe. Additionally, an empirical adaptation of the sheet flow relationship of Ribberink and Al-Salem (1990) to provide for the effects of ripples has been derived from large wave flume data and correlates well with the measured Gold Coast transport rates. These have been applied to a new coastline modelling system developed as part of research into the long term evolution of Australia’s central east coast region in response to sea level change and longshore sand transport processes, which combines the one-line concept of shoreline profile translation within the zone of littoral sand transport with cross-shore profile evolution across the deeper shore-face profile below that zone. It demonstrates the importance of providing for both the shoreward supply from the continental shelf and the varying profile response time-scale across the shore-face in predicting shoreline evolution.

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