Task Switching in Rock Climbing: Validation of a Computational Model for Different Skill Levels

Thirty-two rock climbers, all self-identifying as capable of lead climbing (place protective gear in the rock, to mitigate the risks of falling), climbed an outdoor route while placing what they believed was the necessary amount of protection. Cameras recorded the percentage of time they spent climbing upward (productivity) relative to placing protection (safety). We then applied STOM (strategic task overload model) to predict percent time-on-task, using the differences in their ratings of task interest, task priority, and task difficulty as predictors. The model significantly predicted time on task for the participants categorized as experts, but not for those categorized as non-experts. Time on the climbing (versus protection) task for the expert group, but not the non-expert group, was also predicted by a derived measure inferred to assess risk tolerance in climbing.