scholarly journals MASS TRANSPORT IN GRAVITY WAVES ON A SLOPING BOTTOM

1974 ◽  
Vol 1 (14) ◽  
pp. 25 ◽  
Author(s):  
E.W. Bijker ◽  
J.P. Th. Kalkwijk ◽  
T. Pieters
Keyword(s):  
Mass Transport ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Experimental Results ◽  
Wave Form ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Bottom Slope ◽  
Small Influence ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Steep Slopes ◽  
Horizontal Bottom

In the present investigation the influence of bottom slope on mass transport by progressive waves was investigated, both theoretically and experimentally. Theoretical considerations based on linear wave theory show the greatest influence of the slope on the bottom drift velocities for relatively long waves and steep slopes. The numerical values, however, remain rather small (influence less than 20%). In addition, the experiments show that the bottom drift velocities are more determined by the local parameters than by the magnitude of the bottom slope m the cases examined. Considering the net bottom velocities, the discrepancy between the horizontal bottom theory (Longuet- Higgms) and experimental results is considerable. Taking into account the first harmonic of the local wave form and the small slope effect for relatively small depths in horizontal bottom theory does show, however, the same tendency as the experimental results.

A Second Order Lagrangian Model for Irregular Ocean Waves

2005 ◽  
Vol 128 (3) ◽  
pp. 177-183 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sébastien Fouques ◽  
Harald E. Krogstad ◽  
Dag Myrhaug
Keyword(s):  
Specular Reflection ◽  
Fluid Velocity ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
Wave Theory ◽  
Ocean Waves ◽  
Second Order ◽  
Lagrangian Model ◽  
Lagrangian Description ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Irregular Solution

Synthetic aperture radar (SAR) imaging of ocean waves involves both the geometry and the kinematics of the sea surface. However, the traditional linear wave theory fails to describe steep waves, which are likely to bring about specular reflection of the radar beam, and it may overestimate the surface fluid velocity that causes the so-called velocity bunching effect. Recently, the interest for a Lagrangian description of ocean gravity waves has increased. Such an approach considers the motion of individual labeled fluid particles and the free surface elevation is derived from the surface particles positions. The first order regular solution to the Lagrangian equations of motion for an inviscid and incompressible fluid is the so-called Gerstner wave. It shows realistic features such as sharper crests and broader troughs as the wave steepness increases. This paper proposes a second order irregular solution to these equations. The general features of the first and second order waves are described, and some statistical properties of various surface parameters such as the orbital velocity, slope, and mean curvature are studied.

Vibratory Feeding by Nonsinusoidal Vibration—Optimum Wave Form

1985 ◽  
Vol 107 (2) ◽  
pp. 188-195 ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Okabe ◽  
Y. Kamiya ◽  
K. Tsujikado ◽  
Y. Yokoyama
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Results ◽  
Wave Form ◽  
Velocity Wave ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Straight Lines ◽  
Vibratory Conveyor ◽  
Theoretical Results ◽  
Vibratory Feeding

This paper presents the conveying velocity on a vibratory conveyor whose track is vibrated by nonsinusoidal vibration. The velocity wave form of the vibrating track is approximated by six straight lines, and five distortion factors of the wave form are defined. Considering the modes of motion of the particle, the mean conveying velocity is calculated for various conditions. Referring to these results, the optimum wave form is clarified analytically. The theoretical results show that the mean conveying velocity is considerably larger than that of ordinary feeders if the proper conveying conditions are chosen. The theoretical results are confirmed by experimental results.

Experimental results from a linear wave power generator connected to a resonance circuit

2012 ◽  
Vol 2 (4) ◽  
pp. 456-464 ◽  
Author(s):  
Boel Ekergård ◽  
Cecilia Boström ◽  
Anders Hagnestål ◽  
Rafael Waters ◽  
Mats Leijon
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Results ◽  
Wave Power ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Power Generator ◽  
Resonance Circuit

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

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