scholarly journals FIELD AND LABORATORY VERIFICATION OF THE WAVE PROPAGATION MODEL CREDIZ

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 80 ◽  
Author(s):  
M.W. Dingemans ◽  
M.J.F. Stive ◽  
A.J. Kuik ◽  
A.C. Radder ◽  
N. Booij

Both the effects of refraction and diffraction may be efficiently modeled in wave propagation models by introduction of the parabolic approximation. The performance of the model CREDIZ, which is based on this parabolic approximation, was investigated in three verification studies. Two of these studies concern laboratory situations, i.e. one having a simple geometry and one having a more complicated geometry. The third study concerns a field situation, i.e. a shoal dominated area in an estuary mouth. It is found that despite the schematization to monochromatic, nearly linear wave propagation, the model CREDIZ performs remarkably well for engineering purposes.

1995 ◽  
Vol 17 (4) ◽  
pp. 6-12
Author(s):  
Nguyen Tien Dat ◽  
Dinh Van Manh ◽  
Nguyen Minh Son

A mathematical model on linear wave propagation toward shore is chosen and corresponding software is built. The wave transformation outside and inside the surf zone is considered including the diffraction effect. The model is tested by laboratory and field data and gave reasonables results.


2017 ◽  
Vol 34 (8) ◽  
pp. 1823-1836 ◽  
Author(s):  
Sean C. Crosby ◽  
Bruce D. Cornuelle ◽  
William C. O’Reilly ◽  
Robert T. Guza

AbstractNearshore wave predictions with high resolution in space and time are needed for boating safety, to assess flood risk, and to support nearshore processes research. This study presents methods for improving regional nearshore predictions of swell-band wave energy (0.04–0.09 Hz) by assimilating local buoy observations into a linear wave propagation model with a priori guidance from global WAVEWATCH III (WW3) model predictions. Linear wave propagation, including depth-induced refraction and shoaling, and travel time lags, is modeled with self-adjoint backward ray tracing techniques. The Bayesian assimilation yields smooth, high-resolution offshore wave directional spectra that are consistent with WW3, and with offshore and local buoy observations. Case studies in the Southern California Bight (SCB) confirm that the nearshore predictions at independent (nonassimilated) buoy sites are improved by assimilation compared with predictions driven with WW3 or with a single offshore buoy. These assimilation techniques, valid in regions and frequency bands where wave energy propagation is mostly linear, use significantly less computational resources than nonlinear models and variational methods, and could be a useful component of a larger regional assimilation program. Where buoy locations have historically been selected to meet local needs, these methods can aid in the design of regional buoy arrays by quantifying the regional skill improvement for a given buoy observation and identifying both high-value and redundant observations. Assimilation techniques also identify likely forward model error in the Santa Barbara Channel, where permanent observations or model corrections are needed.


Author(s):  
Klaus Baumgärtel ◽  
Konrad Sauer

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