Modeling of coastal infragravity waves using the spectral model WAVEWATCH Ⅲ

2021 ◽  
pp. 104016
Author(s):  
Zhenjun Zheng ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Xuezhi Huang ◽  
Guohai Dong
Author(s):  
T. C. Lippmann ◽  
T. H. C. Herbers ◽  
E. B. Thornton
Keyword(s):  

Author(s):  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinsky ◽  
...  

Based on numerical modelling evolution of beach under waves with height 1,0-1,5 m and period 7,5 and 10,6 sec as well as spectral wave parameters varying cross-shore analysed. The beach reformation of coastal zone relief is spatially uneven. It is established that upper part of underwater beach profile become terraced and width of the terrace is in direct pro-portion to wave height and period on the seaward boundary but inversely to angle of wave energy spreading. In addition it was ascertain that the greatest transfiguration of profile was accompanied by existence of bound infragravity waves, smaller part of its energy and shorter mean wave period as well as more significant roller energy.


2000 ◽  
Vol 4 (3) ◽  
pp. 241-264 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mark Ulitsky ◽  
Chaouki Ghenaï ◽  
Iskender Gökalp ◽  
Lian-Ping Wang ◽  
Lance R Collins

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