Observations of Infragravity Waves in the Nearshore

Author(s):  
T. C. Lippmann ◽  
T. H. C. Herbers ◽  
E. B. Thornton
Keyword(s):  
Author(s):  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Olga Kuznetsova ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinsky ◽  
...  

Based on numerical modelling evolution of beach under waves with height 1,0-1,5 m and period 7,5 and 10,6 sec as well as spectral wave parameters varying cross-shore analysed. The beach reformation of coastal zone relief is spatially uneven. It is established that upper part of underwater beach profile become terraced and width of the terrace is in direct pro-portion to wave height and period on the seaward boundary but inversely to angle of wave energy spreading. In addition it was ascertain that the greatest transfiguration of profile was accompanied by existence of bound infragravity waves, smaller part of its energy and shorter mean wave period as well as more significant roller energy.


2021 ◽  
pp. 104016
Author(s):  
Zhenjun Zheng ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma ◽  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Xuezhi Huang ◽  
Guohai Dong

Author(s):  
Chao An ◽  
Chen Cai ◽  
Lei Zhou ◽  
Ting Yang

Abstract Horizontal records of ocean-bottom seismographs are usually noisy at low frequencies (< 0.1 Hz). The noise source is believed to be associated with ocean-bottom currents that may tilt the instrument. Currently horizontal records are mainly used to remove the coherent noise in vertical records, and there has been little literature that quantitatively discusses the mechanism and characteristics of low-frequency horizontal noise. In this article, we analyze in situ ocean-bottom measurements by rotating the data horizontally and evaluating the coherency between different channels. Results suggest that the horizontal noise consists of two components, random noise and principle noise whose direction barely changes in time. The amplitude and the direction of the latter are possibly related to the intensity and direction of ocean-bottom currents. Rotating the horizontal records to the direction of the principle noise can largely suppress the principle noise in the orthogonal horizontal channel. In addition, the horizontal noise is incoherent with pressure, indicating that the noise source is not ocean surface water waves (infragravity waves). At some stations in shallow waters (<300 m), horizontal noise around 0.07 Hz is found to be linearly proportional to the temporal derivative of pressure, which is explained by forces of added mass due to infragravity waves.


2020 ◽  
Vol 62 (2) ◽  
pp. 182-197 ◽  
Author(s):  
Naohiro Hattori ◽  
Yoshimitsu Tajima ◽  
Yusuke Yamanaka ◽  
Kenzou Kumagai
Keyword(s):  

Author(s):  
Wenshan Li ◽  
Hui Wang ◽  
Huan Li ◽  
Shuangquan Wu ◽  
Cheng Li
Keyword(s):  

2016 ◽  
Vol 121 (8) ◽  
pp. 5418-5435 ◽  
Author(s):  
Xavier Bertin ◽  
Maitane Olabarrieta
Keyword(s):  

Author(s):  
Stephen Masterton ◽  
Kevin Ewans

Infragravity waves are very long period waves below the frequency of typical wind waves. They are most significant in shallow water locations and therefore have a high impact on the response of moored vessels. For the Oil and Gas business this can be an important consideration for tanker on/offloading operations (including LNG vessels) — these larger vessels, with longer natural periods, are particularly susceptible. There are implications for both the design and operation including the calculation of extreme loading on the mooring system, extreme vessel motions, fatigue of mooring systems and the availability of on/offloading operations. There are currently limited design practices to account for the effect of infragravity waves. This may be attributed to two main factors: The development of infragravity waves is difficult to model and is sensitive to many factors, including the magnitude and shape of the incident wind and swell spectra, local bathymetry, directionality and near shore wave breaking. Secondly, very little measured data exist since the infragravity wave frequencies lie below the conventional range of commonly deployed wave measurement devices. The present paper will provide a description of the infragravity waves acting on the US coast at two locations, Duck, North Carolina, and Baja, California. The results will characterize parameters including the significant wave height, peak period, and comparison of infragravity waves through time. In addition, the relationships between the spectral shape will be examined including directionality. This type of information is needed to set design criteria for infragravity waves, and in the longer term to develop and enhance infragravity wave models e.g. Reniers 2002 (1) and ultimately contribute to establishing design practices.


2010 ◽  
Vol 37 (2) ◽  
pp. n/a-n/a ◽  
Author(s):  
Peter D. Bromirski ◽  
Olga V. Sergienko ◽  
Douglas R. MacAyeal

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