Linear wave theory (oceanic waters)

Author(s):  
Leo H. Holthuijsen
1998 ◽  
Vol 65 (1) ◽  
pp. 141-149
Author(s):  
J. F. Hall

This paper develops a theory for geometrically nonlinear waves in strings and presents analytical solutions for a traveling kink, generation of a geometric wave with its accompanying P wave, reflection of a kink at a fixed support and at a smooth sliding support, and interaction of a P wave and a kink. Conditions that must be satisfied for linear wave theory to hold are derived. The nonlinear theory is demonstrated by extending an historically important solution of the barrage balloon problem that was obtained during World War II.


Author(s):  
Hans Bihs ◽  
Muk Chen Ong

Two-dimensional (2D) numerical simulations are performed to investigate the flows past partially-submerged circular cylinders in free surface waves. The 2D simulations are carried out by solving the Unsteady Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes (URANS) equations with the k-ω turbulence model. The level set method is employed to model the free-surface waves. Validation studies of a numerical wave tank have been performed by comparing the numerical results with the analytical results obtained from the linear-wave theory. Wave forces on the partially-submerged cylinders have been calculated numerically and compared with the published theoretical and experimental data under regular-wave conditions. The free-surface elevations around the cylinders have been investigated and discussed.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 108
Author(s):  
Bernard LeMehaute ◽  
James Walker ◽  
John Headland ◽  
John Wang

A method of calculating nonlinear wave induced forces and moments on piles of variable diameter is presented. The method is based on the Morrison equation and the linear wave theory with correction parameters to account for convective inertial effects in the wave field. These corrections are based on the stream function wave theory by Dean (1974). The method permits one to take into account the added wave force due to marine growth in the intertidal zone or due to a protective jacket, and can also be used to calculate forces on braces and an array of piles.


1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 28
Author(s):  
Yu-Cheng Li ◽  
John B. Herbich

The interaction of a gravity wave with a steady uniform current is described in this paper. Numerical calculations of the wave length change by different non-linear wave theories show that errors in the results computed by the linear wave theory are less than 10 percent within the range of 0.15 < d/Ls s 0.40, 0.01 < Hs/Ls < 0.07 and -0.15 < U/Cs i 0.30. Numerical calculations of wave height change employing different wave theories show that errors in the results obtained by the linear wave theory in comparison with the non-linear theories are greater when the opposing relative current and wave steepness become larger. However, within range of the following currents such errors will not be significant. These results were verified by model tests. Nomograms for the modification of wave length and wave height by the linear wave theory and Stokes1 third order theory are presented for a wide range of d/Ls, Hs/Ls and U/C. These nomograms provide the design engineer with a practical guide for estimating wave lengths and heights affected by currents.


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document