Wind-Induced Waves and Currents in a Nearshore Zone

Author(s):  
Nobuhiro Matsunaga ◽  
Misao Hashida ◽  
Hiroshi Kawakami
Author(s):  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Konstantin Gurov ◽  
Konstantin Gurov ◽  
Vladimir Udovik ◽  
...  

Coastal zone dynamics is especially interesting for interdisciplinary researchers. This is due to general retreat of the coast of the Western Crimea and the fast response in the beach ar-ea. This justifies the need for monitoring of morphodynamic processes in the coastal zone of Crimea with the aim of qualitative and quantitative assessments of modern coastal trans-formation, as well as forecasts of possible changes. XBeach model has been used to simulate dynamics of waves and currents, sediment transport and changes in bottom topography, as well as the processes of drying and flooding of coastal areas. Erosion and sedimentation processes for the bottom sediments of the coastal zone of the Western Crimea have been numerically studied. The bottom profile has been reconstructed on the basis of bathymetric investigations in the coastal zone of the Western Crimea. Numerical simulations have been performed for various parameters of the bed composition and wind waves. Two fractions of bottom sediments have been considered for numerical experiments. The obtained results show that XBeach model can be successfully applied to simulate the bed profile evolution and changes in bottom sediment fractionation.


Author(s):  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Vladimir Fomin ◽  
Konstantin Gurov ◽  
Konstantin Gurov ◽  
Vladimir Udovik ◽  
...  

Coastal zone dynamics is especially interesting for interdisciplinary researchers. This is due to general retreat of the coast of the Western Crimea and the fast response in the beach ar-ea. This justifies the need for monitoring of morphodynamic processes in the coastal zone of Crimea with the aim of qualitative and quantitative assessments of modern coastal trans-formation, as well as forecasts of possible changes. XBeach model has been used to simulate dynamics of waves and currents, sediment transport and changes in bottom topography, as well as the processes of drying and flooding of coastal areas. Erosion and sedimentation processes for the bottom sediments of the coastal zone of the Western Crimea have been numerically studied. The bottom profile has been reconstructed on the basis of bathymetric investigations in the coastal zone of the Western Crimea. Numerical simulations have been performed for various parameters of the bed composition and wind waves. Two fractions of bottom sediments have been considered for numerical experiments. The obtained results show that XBeach model can be successfully applied to simulate the bed profile evolution and changes in bottom sediment fractionation.


Author(s):  
Nataliya Belova ◽  
Nataliya Belova ◽  
Alisa Baranskaya ◽  
Alisa Baranskaya ◽  
Osip Kokin ◽  
...  

The coasts of Baydaratskaya Bay are composed by loose frozen sediments. At Yamal Peninsula accumulative coasts are predominant at the site where pipeline crosses the coast, while thermoabrasional coast are prevail at the Ural coast crossing site. Coastal dynamics monitoring on both sites is conducted using field and remote methods starting from the end of 1980s. As a result of construction in the coastal zone the relief morphology was disturbed, both lithodynamics and thermal regime of the permafrost within the areas of several km around the sites where gas pipeline crosses coastline was changed. At Yamal coast massive removal of deposits from the beach and tideflat took place. The morphology of barrier beach, which previously was a natural wave energy dissipater, was disturbed. This promoted inland penetration of storm surges and permafrost degradation under the barrier beach. At Ural coast the topsoil was disrupted by construction trucks, which affected thermal regime of the upper part of permafrost and lead to active layer deepening. Thermoerosion and thermoabrasion processes have activated on coasts, especially at areas with icy sediments, ice wedges and massive ice beds. Construction of cofferdams resulted in overlapping of sediments transit on both coasts and caused sediment deficit on nearby nearshore zone areas. The result of technogenic disturbances was widespread coastal erosion activation, which catastrophic scale is facilitated by climate warming in the Arctic.


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