Numerical Investigation of Sediment Transport for Combined Waves and Currents

Author(s):  
Juan Savioli
Ocean Science ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 13 (5) ◽  
pp. 673-690 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Franz ◽  
Matthias T. Delpey ◽  
David Brito ◽  
Lígia Pinto ◽  
Paulo Leitão ◽  
...  

Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3-D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and the SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3-D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport both in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves. The MOHID code is available in the GitHub repository.


2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 50 ◽  
Author(s):  
Le Phuong Dong ◽  
Shinji Sato

Prototype scale laboratory experiments have been conducted to investigate the sheetflow sediment transport of uniform sands under different skewed-asymmetric oscillatory flows. Experimental results reveal that in most of the case with fine sand, the “cancelling effect”, which balances the on-/off-shore net transport under pure asymmetric/skewed flows and results a moderate net transport, was developed for combined skewed-asymmetric flow. However, under some certain conditions (T > 5s) with coarse sands, the onshore sediment transport was enhanced by 50% under combined skewed-asymmetric flows. Sand transport mechanism under oscillatory sheetflow conditions is also studied by comparing the maximum bed shear stress and the phase lag parameter at each half cycle. A comparison of measurements including the new experimental data with a number of practical sand transport formulations shows that the Dong et al. (2013) formulation performs the best in predicting the measured net transport rates over a wide range of experimental conditions


Author(s):  
ZHUBIN CAO ◽  
CHI ZHANG ◽  
HONGSHUAI QI ◽  
YAO ZHANG ◽  
JINHAI ZHENG ◽  
...  

1983 ◽  
Vol 10 (1) ◽  
pp. 142-149 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael C. Quick

Sediment transport is measured under the combined action of waves and currents. Measurements are made with currents in the direction of wave advance and with currents opposing the wave motion. Theoretical relationships are considered that predict the wave velocity field and the mass transport velocity for zero current and for steady currents.Following Bagnold's approach, a transport power relationship is developed to predict the sediment transport rate. Making assumptions for the mass transport velocity, the transport power is shown to agree with the measured sediment transport rates. It is particularly noted that the sediment transport direction is mainly determined by the direction of wave movement, even for adverse currents, until the waves start to break. Keywords: sediment transport, waves and currents, coastal engineering.


1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 92 ◽  
Author(s):  
Richard J. Seymour ◽  
David B. Duane

The models for predicting longshore transport of sediment along straight coastlines that are presently in general use were derived empirically from very sparse measurements of both the forcing function (waves and currents) and the response function (sediment motions). A detailed treatment of these data sets is contained in Greer and Madsen (1978). In addition to the generally unsatisfactory nature of the basic measurements upon which they were based, the models may be deficient because they fail to employ such potentially significant factors as wind stress, sediment size distribution, bottom slope and spatial variations in waves and currents, including the effects of rip currents. Although these models have served certain engineering needs, there is a strong measure of uncertainty in the coastal engineering community about their general applicability. Certainly, because they are empirical rather than physically reasoned models, there is no rational means for extending their usefulness to predicting transport where coastlines are not straight -- such as the case of a tidal inlet. The economic impact of sediment transport in the nearshore regime is enormous and the need for improved predictive tools appears to be universally accepted. To be most useful, these improved models must be globally applicable. This implies very strongly that they must be based upon a thorough understanding of surf zone dynamics and the details of the response of the sediment. The surf zone flow fields are highly complex and nonlinear, implying an equally complex and difficult system of sediment responses. Characterizing the entire forcing and response functions simultaneously requires large and expensive field measurement programs that greatly exceed the present state of the art of measurement and analysis.' The approach of the last two decades of single investigators working at laboratory scale or in the ocean with a few single point measurements would not appear to ever meet these needs. However, the present costs for coastal dredging and shoreline protection, which can be measured in billions of dollars on a world scale, argue for a major undertaking to develop better predictive tools. In an attempt to satisfy these needs, an ad hoc group was formed at the Fifteenth Coastal Engineering Conference in Honolulu to plan a large scale and coordinated series of investigations leading to improved sediment transport predictive models. Less than a year later, the Nearshore Sediment Transport Study was initiated under the sponsorship of the Office of Sea Grant.


Author(s):  
Khoudir Mezouar ◽  
Romeo Ciortan

Abstract The coastline of Zemmouri Bay on the northeast coast of Algeria with about 50 km of shoreline has been eroding since 1970. Changes of the sandy shoreline are continuous and occur at diverse spatial and temporal scales. This erosion is a major crisis and it potentially impacts the coastal population and natural environment. In order to understand and predict these morphological changes, an accurate description of sediment transport by waves and currents and shoreline change is important. This paper presents a comprehensive study of wave refraction, current-driven sediment transport and shoreline change. Results show that the study area exhibits a great variety of shoreline evolution trends, with erosion prevailing in the eastern and central sectors and stability or even accretion in the Western area.


2017 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Franz ◽  
Matthias T. Delpey ◽  
David Brito ◽  
Lígia Pinto ◽  
Paulo Leitão ◽  
...  

Abstract. Coastal defence structures are often constructed to prevent beach erosion. However, poorly designed structures may cause serious erosion problems in the downdrift direction. Morphological models are useful tools to predict such impacts and assess the efficiency of defence structures for different scenarios. Nevertheless, morphological modelling is still a topic under intense research effort. The processes simulated by a morphological model depend on model complexity. For instance, undertow currents are neglected in coastal area models (2DH), which is a limitation for simulating the evolution of beach profiles for long periods. Model limitations are generally overcome by predefining invariant equilibrium profiles that are allowed to shift offshore or onshore. A more flexible approach is described in this paper, which can be generalised to 3D models. The present work is based on the coupling of the MOHID modelling system and SWAN wave model. The impacts of different designs of detached breakwaters and groynes were simulated in a schematic beach configuration following a 2DH approach. The results of bathymetry evolution are in agreement with the patterns found in the literature for several existing structures. The model was also tested in a 3D test case to simulate the formation of sandbars by undertow currents. The findings of this work confirmed the applicability of the MOHID modelling system to study sediment transport and morphological changes in coastal zones under the combined action of waves and currents. The same modelling methodology was applied to a coastal zone (Costa da Caparica) located at the mouth of a mesotidal estuary (Tagus Estuary, Portugal) to evaluate the hydrodynamics and sediment transport in calm water conditions and during events of highly energetic waves.


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