A Model of Seam Pucker and Its Applications. Part II: Experimental

2019 ◽  
Vol 111 (1) ◽  
pp. 60-63
Author(s):  
Amir Muhammad ◽  
Gerry A.V. Leaf ◽  
George K. Stylios
Keyword(s):  
2021 ◽  
Vol 16 ◽  
pp. 155892502110203
Author(s):  
Daoling Chen ◽  
Pengpeng Cheng ◽  
Yonggui Li

Seam pucker is a common problem in sewing. It not only affects the appearance of product, but also affects product performance. The purpose of this study is to quantify the complex dynamic interactions between fabric performance, sewing process parameters and seam pucker. In order to solve the problem of shirt seam pucker, this study selected four kinds of shirt fabrics, three kinds of polyester sewing threads, three kinds of stitch density and four kinds of seam types for experiments. Through unitary regression analysis, the subjective and objective evaluation results are consistent. Further analysis the results of objective experiment revealed that fabric performances, seams type, sewing thread and stitch densities all have impact on seam pucker. Meanwhile also find out the sewing process parameters for the four fabrics when the seam shrinkage’s were smallest, so it’s helpful for the apparel enterprises to improve seam quality. Multiple linear regression analysis of experimental results show that fabric performances has the greatest influence on seam pucker, thickness, weight and warp density of fabric properties significantly affect seam pucker. And as the breaking elongation of sewing thread increases, seam pucker also increases. Stitch densities and seam type has the least affected on seam pucker, they affect the seam pucker by changing the extension of stitch and thickness of fabric at the seam, respectively. Seam type has greater impact on fabrics that are prone to seam pucker, seam type T1 get larger seam shrinkage than T4. Finally, the complex dynamic interactions was quantified and expressed through mathematical models.


1991 ◽  
Vol 3 (3) ◽  
pp. 14-17 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. Stylios ◽  
J. Sotomi
Keyword(s):  

2019 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yaşar Erayman Yüksel ◽  
Yasemin Korkmaz

Purpose Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach 100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured. Findings The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics. Originality/value As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.


2019 ◽  
Vol 111 (1) ◽  
pp. 64-67 ◽  
Author(s):  
Muhammad Amir ◽  
Gerry A. V. Leaf ◽  
George K. Stylios
Keyword(s):  

2011 ◽  
Vol 332-334 ◽  
pp. 1143-1153
Author(s):  
Yong Hui Pan ◽  
Fang Bao ◽  
Mao Gang Wu

By extracting five kernel principal components of fabric FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) low mechanical data, this paper proposed a supervised fuzzy clustering radial basis function neural network to construct fabric sewability prediction system. Our experimental results demonstrate that the proposed system could efficiently be used as an objective seam pucker evaluation system with high accuracy and is robust for various structures and mechanical properties of middle-thickness woolen fabric.


2013 ◽  
Vol 25 (3) ◽  
pp. 150-170 ◽  
Author(s):  
F. Mousazadegan ◽  
S. Saharkhiz ◽  
M. Latifi ◽  
M. Mohammadi‐Aghdam
Keyword(s):  

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