Investigation of sewing and water repellent performance of outdoor clothing

2019 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yaşar Erayman Yüksel ◽  
Yasemin Korkmaz
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Water Resistance ◽  
Water Repellency ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Water Repellent ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Textile Materials ◽  
Sewing Threads ◽  
Reduced Water ◽  
Seam Pucker

Purpose Durability of textile materials under wet conditions has become very important in recent years. The water repellency performance of fabrics should be maintained in the seam areas. The purpose of this paper is to analyze the effect of water repellent agents and sewing threads on the seam and water repellency performance properties of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach 100 percent polyester woven fabrics were treated with three different water repellent finishing agents (silicone, fluorocarbons with 6 and 8 carbons) and then sewn with different sewing threads (unfinished/water repellent finished polyester/cotton corespun and polyamide filament). Afterwards, mechanical properties, seam performance and water repellency properties of these materials were measured. Findings The effect of finishing which was statistically significant on seam strength only in warp direction was significant on seam elongation and efficiency in both warp and weft directions. Seam strength, seam efficiency, seam slippage and seam pucker of fabrics sewn with polyamide threads were higher than others. The fluorocarbons applied to the fabrics gave higher water repellency values than silicones. In addition, as the chain length increased in fluorocarbons, water repellency performance increased. Sewing process reduced water resistance of fabrics; however, water repellent finish applied to the threads increased water resistance of fabrics. Originality/value As a result of the literature review, it was seen that water repellency property of a wear were studied in only seamless areas of fabrics. Originality of this study is that the water repellency properties are also analyzed in the seam areas of the fabrics and evaluated together with the seam performance characteristics.

The impact of sewing thread's tensile behavior and laundering process on the seam puckering of elastic and normal fabrics

2020 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Reyhaneh Kamali ◽  
Yasaman Mesbah ◽  
Fatemeh Mousazadegan
Keyword(s):  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Tensile Behavior ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Sewing Thread ◽  
Before And After ◽  
Key Factor ◽  
Thread Tension ◽  
Sewing Threads ◽  
The Impact ◽  
Seam Pucker

PurposeThe aim of the present study is to consider the influence of the tensile behavior of fabric and sewing thread on the seam appearance.Design/methodology/approachIn this study, the formation of seam puckering on two elastic and normal woven fabrics was explored. In order to prepare samples, various sewing threads were applied. Test specimens were sewn under five different thread tension levels. Then the appearance of samples was evaluated subjectively to determine their seam puckering grade before and after the laundering process.FindingsThe obtained outcomes of this study present that although sewing thread tension increment decreases the seam pucker ranking in the similar sewing condition, elastic fabrics have a greater seam pucker grade compared to the normal fabric due to the fabric extension and contraction during sewing and after sewing process, respectively. In addition, the elastic strain of the sewing thread is the key factor that determined sewing thread's tendency to make seam puckering. Moreover, the laundry process due to the relaxation of the sewing thread decreases the seam pucker grade.Originality/valueThe consistency of the tensile property of fabric and sewing thread is a crucial parameter in improving the seam appearance and obtaining a smooth seam.

Assessment of the mechanical properties of different textile materials used for outer shell of bulletproof vest: woven fabrics for military applications

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
A.I.H. Fayed ◽  
Y.A. Abo El Amaim ◽  
Ossama Ramy ◽  
Doaa H. Elgohary
Keyword(s):  
Mechanical Properties ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Outer Shell ◽  
Common Mechanism ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Textile Materials ◽  
Steel Core ◽  
Materials Used ◽  
Bulletproof Vest ◽  
The Impact

Purpose This paper aims to investigate the performance of four different textile materials used as an outer shell of the bulletproof vest. Design/methodology/approach In this paper, four different textile materials were used, polyurethane treatment was applied as a surface coating for the woven samples. Mechanical properties were conducted for all samples; scanning electron microscope and X-ray energy disperse spectroscopy were executed to show the surface morphology of samples and the chemical composition of the coating material. Findings One-way ANOVA was used to statistically analyse the results, which proved that all variables were highly significantly affected by using different textile materials, despite the stiffness variable being not significantly affected by textile materials. An overall evaluation was done using radar chart, demonstrated that Cordura material accomplished the best functional performance, using two types of calibres 7.62 × 54 mild steel core and 7.62 × 54 armour piercing incendiary; the common mechanism was localized burn because of the incendiary effect of the projectile in addition to tearing mechanism starting from inside because of penetration effect of the steel core. Originality/value This work was addressed to analyse the impact of using four different materials on its performance as the outer shell of bulletproof vest to achieve the desired degree of protection.

Dynamic drape behaviours of wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time use

2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Gonca Balci Kilic ◽  
Murat Demir ◽  
Musa Kilic
Keyword(s):  
Real Time ◽  
Time Use ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Rotation Speed ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Unit Weight ◽  
Bending Rigidity ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Deformation Properties ◽  
Time Usage

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to analyse dynamic drape behaviours of 100% wool woven suiting fabrics considering real-time usage.Design/methodology/approachDynamic drape coefficients of 100% wool woven fabrics were measured at different rotation speeds (25, 75, 125 and 175 rpm) with a commercially used fabric drape tester which works on image processing principle. Average daily walking speed of male and female volunteers was determined and the closest rotation speed was selected to calculate dynamic drape coefficient at walking (DDCw). Besides, bending rigidity and shear deformation properties, which are known to be related to the static drape behaviours of the fabrics, were also measured and the relationships between these parameters and DDCw were examined.FindingsAs a result of the experimental study, it was found that dynamic drape coefficients become greater, which means the fabrics take flatter position, with the increase of the rotation speed. In addition, it was also seen that parameters known to be related to static drape behaviours such as unit weight and bending stiffness have less effect on the dynamic drapes of fabrics. For the estimation of dynamic drape behaviour of fabrics, parameters such as static perimeter, dynamic perimeter, etc. are found more significant.Originality/valueTo date, although studies about dynamic drape behaviours of the fabrics claimed that dynamic drape gives more realistic results for in wearer experience, few of them focused on the rotation speed of dynamic drape tester for real-time usage. As dynamic drape behaviours of fabrics may differ for different rotation speed, determining appropriate speed in accordance with real-time usage gives more realistic results.

scholarly journals Ultrahydrophobic Textiles Using Nanoparticles: Lotus Approach

2008 ◽  
Vol 3 (4) ◽  
pp. 155892500800300 ◽  
Author(s):  
Karthik Ramaratnam ◽  
Swaminatha K. Iyer ◽  
Mark K. Kinnan ◽  
George Chumanov ◽  
Phillip J. Brown ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Contact Angle ◽  
Water Contact Angle ◽  
Contact Angle Hysteresis ◽  
Water Repellency ◽  
Textile Material ◽  
Water Repellent ◽  
Complete Wetting ◽  
Water Contact ◽  
Lotus Effect ◽  
Textile Materials

It is well established that the water wettability of materials is governed by both the chemical composition and the geometrical microstructure of the surface.1 Traditional textile wet processing treatments do indeed rely fundamentally upon complete wetting out of a textile structure to achieve satisfactory performance.2 However, the complexities introduced through the heterogeneous nature of the fiber surfaces, the nature of the fiber composition and the actual construction of the textile material create difficulties in attempting to predict the exact wettability of a particular textile material. For many applications the ability of a finished fabric to exhibit water repellency (in other words low wettability) is essential2 and potential applications of highly water repellent textile materials include rainwear, upholstery, protective clothing, sportswear, and automobile interior fabrics. Recent research indicates that such applications may benefit from a new generation of water repellent materials that make use of the “lotus effect” to provide ultrahydrophobic textile materials.3,4 Ultrahydrophobic surfaces are typically termed as the surfaces that show a water contact angle greater than 150°C with very low contact angle hysteresis.4 In the case of textile materials, the level of hydrophobicity is often determined by measuring the static water contact angle only, since it is difficult to measure the contact angle hysteresis on a textile fabric because of the high levels of roughness inherent in textile structures.

Influence of the delamination loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seams strength

2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (6) ◽  
pp. 768-775 ◽  
Author(s):  
Gerda Mikalauskaite ◽  
Virginija Daukantiene
Keyword(s):  
Bond Strength ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Bond Rupture ◽  
Strength Testing ◽  
Knitted Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Velocity Interval ◽  
Opposite Tendency

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to determine the influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds and sewn seam strength. Design/methodology/approach Commercially produced polyamide and polyester knitted fabric, and polyester woven fabrics as well as three commercially available monolayer urethane thermoplastic films were used in this research. Two layers of each fabric were laminated at 160°C temperature at 5.6 kPa for 20 seconds. Sewn specimens were joined applying (301) and (514) stiches for woven and knitted fabrics, respectively. The bond and sewn seam strength was investigated at different delamination loading velocities (50, 100, 150, 200, 300 mm/min). These values of velocities lies in the velocity interval which covers the different standard requirements for testing of the quality of textiles and their seams or were applied in the research works of previous scientists. As the influence of loading velocity was more significant for bond strength, the bond strength results were analyzed together with the analysis of bond rupture character. Findings The determined influence of the loading velocity on textile bonds strength has proved that the loading velocity in bond strength test is of high importance for the prediction of the behavior of clothing being in exploitation under different conditions. The opposite tendency was determined for the sewn seams, the strength of which was independent on loading velocity. Originality/value The influence of the loading velocity on textile bond and sewn seam strength was not analyzed in the previous research works published by other scientists. It was known that the standard velocity is 50 mm/min for seams and 100 mm/min for textiles strength testing. It was shown there that the real exploitation of a garment as a whole complicated heterogenic dynamic system could be simulated with changing loading velocities during their seam strength testing. It was also determined that the loading velocity makes different influence on bonded and sewn seams of textiles.

Comparative analysis of drape characteristics of actually and virtually draped fabrics

2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (3) ◽  
pp. 286-301
Author(s):  
Evrim Buyukaslan ◽  
Simona Jevsnik ◽  
Fatma Kalaoglu
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Simulation Software ◽  
Shape Representations ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Testing Method ◽  
Node Distribution ◽  
Fabric Drape ◽  
The Subject ◽  
Virtual Fabric

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to compare real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images created by a commercial software. To achieve an in-depth comparison, actual and virtual drape shape properties were considered under three categories: drape area, number of nodes and shape of folds. The results of this research are expected to be useful to improve the reality and accuracy of fabric and garment. Design/methodology/approach Five different fabrics were selected for this study. Fabrics’ mechanical properties were tested by fabric assurance for simple testing method, while drape properties were measured by a Cusick drape meter. A commercial garment simulation was used to generate virtual fabric drapes. Real fabric drape images and virtual fabric drape images were analyzed by an image analysis software and results were used to calculate drape properties. Regression analysis was performed to compare real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape properties. Findings Differences between real fabric drape and virtual fabric drape were stated clearly. Simulation software was found to be insufficient to reflect drape area. However, simulations were quite successful corresponding to the number of nodes. Only one simulation had +2 nodes than its actual counterpart. This study showed that area and node shape representations of simulation software should be improved while node numbers are sufficiently represented. Research limitations/implications There are alternative 3D garment simulation software available to the fashion business. All these companies are working on to improve their simulation reality and accuracy. Some of them are also offering various equipment to measure the fabric properties. In this study, Optitex 3D Suite was selected as the simulation software due to several reasons as explained in this paper. However, other simulation programs might also be employed to perform virtual fabric drapes. Furthermore, in this study, the drape images of five woven fabrics were compared. The fabric selection was done according to a pre-test and consequently similar fabrics were determined to be the subject of the study. However, the more the number of the fabrics, the better the comparison and eventually the better the assessment of simulation success. Therefore, it is prospected to test more fabrics with versatile fabric properties for further studies. Originality/value Drape shape was observed from three perspectives: drape area, node numbers, and node shapes. Dealing the problem from these perspectives provided an in-depth comparison of real and virtual drapes. In this study, standard deviation of peak angles was used to explain node distribution that is new to the literature to the authors’ knowledge.

Investigation of the use of steam for spun-like textured yarn manufacturing

2015 ◽  
Vol 27 (2) ◽  
pp. 177-190 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ganemulle Lekamalage Dharmasri Wickramasinghe ◽  
Peter William Foster
Keyword(s):  
Design Methodology ◽  
Paper Analyse ◽  
Paper Production ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Renewable Fuel ◽  
Air Jet ◽  
Yarn Properties ◽  
Sewing Threads ◽  
Commercial Applications ◽  
Practical Implications

Purpose – The purpose of this paper is to investigate the use of steam in order to replace air in the production of spun-like textured yarns. Further, this paper analyse the effect of production speed on process and textured yarn properties. Design/methodology/approach – An existing air-jet texturing machine was modified to supply either air or steam to the texturing nozzle. Using standard commercial nozzles, both air-jet and steam-jet textured yarns were manufactured by varying production speed. Findings – It can be concluded that steam can be used as an alternative fluid for air in making spun-like textured yarns. Results show that yarn parameters for steam-jet texturing show a similar trend to those of air-jet texturing relative to the production speed. Further, sewing threads made from steam-jet textured yarns showed good sewability up to the speeds of 350 m/min. Research limitations/implications – Only the effect of production speed on process and yarn parameters is discussed in this paper. Production speed was limited to 350 m/min due to machine constraints. Practical implications – Steam is more economical than air to manufacture spun-like textured yarn at commercial pressures such as 8 bar. Steam-jet textured yarns could be used for commercial applications such as sewing threads at competitive speeds. Further, steam could be generated using sustainable and renewable fuel sources such as biomass. Originality/value – This research introduced steam as an alternative fluid for air in manufacturing spun-like textured yarns.

The effect of weave pattern on the thermal properties of woven fabrics

2018 ◽  
Vol 30 (4) ◽  
pp. 525-535 ◽  
Author(s):  
Azita Asayesh ◽  
Mehraneh Talaei ◽  
Mohammad Maroufi
Keyword(s):  
Thermal Conductivity ◽  
Thermal Properties ◽  
Thermal Resistance ◽  
Design Methodology ◽  
Structural Parameters ◽  
Thermal Characteristics ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Weave Fabric ◽  
Weave Pattern

Purpose Fabric structural parameters play an important role on the thermal comfort of clothing. The purpose of this paper is to investigate the effect of weave pattern and also the length of warp float in each weave pattern on the thermal properties of woven fabrics. Design/methodology/approach Cotton woven fabrics with 23 different weave patterns were produced with identical linear densities of warp and weft yarns as well as constant warp and weft nominal densities. Thereafter, their thermal properties were studied. Findings Statistical analysis demonstrated that the weave pattern significantly influences on the thermal properties of woven fabrics. Plain fabric exhibited the lowest thermal resistance and the highest thermal conductivity, and hopsack 2/2(4) weave fabric demonstrated the highest thermal resistance and the lowest thermal conductivity. Moreover, except hopsack (4) weave fabric, in all weave patterns, the length of warp float had a significant effect on the thermal characteristics of the fabrics, as increasing the warp float led to increase in the thermal resistance of the fabrics. Originality/value Weave pattern as one of the structural parameters of the fabric has a determinant role on the thermal properties of fabric and subsequently, the comfort of clothing produced from it. Owing to the lack of investigation in this area, this research considers the effect of weave pattern and the length of warp float in each weave pattern on the thermal properties of woven fabrics.

Effect of surgical fabrics structure on wetting behaviour

2017 ◽  
Vol 29 (2) ◽  
pp. 270-280 ◽  
Author(s):  
Donatas Petrulis ◽  
Salvinija Petrulyte
Keyword(s):  
Contact Angle ◽  
Unit Area ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Liquid Drops ◽  
Textile Materials ◽  
Wetting Contact Angle ◽  
Structural Indices ◽  
Structure Evaluation ◽  
Lateral Area

Purpose The purpose of this paper is to propose the materials structure-wetting behaviour relationships and to show their peculiarities for some types of surgical woven fabrics and applications of liquids. Design/methodology/approach To show the effects of fabrics structure on wetting behaviour of surgical textile materials, the special structural indices in terms of yarns and filaments lateral area were used. Findings It was shown good correlation between total lateral area of filaments in unit area of woven fabrics and wetting contact angle of liquid drops on the tested samples. Probably due to different structure of woven fabrics at a level of fibres, another index, i.e. total lateral area of yarns in unit area of fabrics, is not suitable to show clear effect on wetting behaviour of the samples. The possibilities of applications of relationships for several types of textile materials and liquids were indicated. Originality/value To date there are no investigations concerning relationships between special structural properties of the surgical woven fabrics and their wetting behaviour. On a basis of the proposed approach into fabrics structure evaluation, this study developed analysis and some types of new equations for prediction of wetting contact angle of the materials.

Optimization of adhesion of poly lactic acid 3D printed onto polyethylene terephthalate woven fabrics through modelling using textile properties

2019 ◽  
Vol 26 (2) ◽  
pp. 390-401 ◽  
Author(s):  
Prisca Aude Eutionnat-Diffo ◽  
Yan Chen ◽  
Jinping Guan ◽  
Aurélie Cayla ◽  
Christine Campagne ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Thermal Conductivity ◽  
Surface Roughness ◽  
Lactic Acid ◽  
Pore Size ◽  
Woven Fabrics ◽  
Poly Lactic Acid ◽  
Content Type ◽  
Textile Materials ◽  
Washing Process ◽  
3D Printed

Purpose This paper aims to evaluate and simulate the impact of the build platform temperature of the three-dimensional (3D) printer, the structure and heat transfer of textiles on the adhesion and durability after washing properties of 3D printed polymer onto textile materials using thin layers of conductive and non-conductive extruded poly lactic acid monofilaments (PLA) deposited on polyethylene terephthalate (PET) woven fabrics through fused deposition modeling (FDM) process. Design/methodology/approach Prior to FDM process, thermal conductivity, surface roughness and mean pore size of PET woven fabrics were assessed using the “hot disk,” the profilometer and the capillary flow porometry methods, respectively. After the FDM process, the adhesion and durability after the washing process properties of the materials were determined and optimized based on reliable statistical models connecting those properties to the textile substrate properties such as surface roughness, mean pore size and thermal conductivity. Findings The main findings point out that higher roughness coefficient and mean pore size and lower thermal conductivity of polyester woven textile materials improve the adhesion properties and the build platform presents a quadratic effect. Additionally, the adhesion strength decreases by half after the washing process and rougher and more porous textile structures demonstrate better durability. These results are explained by the surface topography of textile materials that define the anchorage areas between the printed layer and the textiles. Originality/value This study is for great importance in the development of smart textiles using FDM process as it presents unique and reliable models used to optimize adhesion resistance of 3D printed PLA primary layer onto PET textiles.

Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document