International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology
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1262
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Published By Emerald (Mcb Up )

0955-6222

2022 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuqi Tang ◽  
Zhantong Mao ◽  
Anni Li ◽  
Lina Zhai

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to study the heat transfer effect of copper sensor and skin simulant on skin.Design/methodology/approachFor the sensor, the physical and mathematical models of the thermal sensors were used to obtain the definite conditions in the heat transfer process of the sensor, and the heat transfer models of the two sensors were developed and solved respectively by using ANSYS WORKBENCH 19.0 software. The simulation results were compared with the experimental test results. For the skin, the numerical model of the skin model was developed and calculated. Finally, the heat transfer simulation performance of the two sensors was analyzed.FindingsIt is concluded that the copper sensor is more stable than the skin simulant, but the material and structure of the skin simulant is more suitable for skin simulation. The skin simulant better simulates the skin heat transfer. For all the factors in the model, the thermal properties of the material and the heat flux level are the key factors. The convective heat transfer coefficient, radiation heat transfer rate and the initial temperature have little influence on the results, which can be ignored.Research limitations/implicationsThe results show that there are still some differences between the experimental and numerical simulation values of the skin simulant. In the future, the thermal parameters of skin simulant and the influence of the thermocouple adhesion should be further examined during the calibration process.Practical implicationsThe results suggest that the skin simulant needs to be further calibrated, especially for the thermal properties. The copper sensor on the flame manikin can be replaced by the skin simulant with higher accuracy, which will be helpful to improve the accuracy of performance evaluation of thermal protective clothing.Social implicationsThe application of computational fluid dynamics (CFD) technology can help to analyze the heat transfer simulation mechanism of thermal sensor, explore the influence of thermal performance of thermal sensor on skin simulation, provide basis for the development of thermal sensor and improve the application system of thermal sensor. Based on the current research status, this paper studies the internal heat transfer of the sensor through the numerical modeling of the copper sensor and skin simulant, so as to analyze the effect of the sensor simulating skin and the reasons for the difference.Originality/valueIn this paper, the sensor itself is numerically modeled and the heat transfer inside the sensor is studied.


2022 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Tamaki Mitsuno ◽  
Ayaka Kai Yanagisawa

PurposeThe present study obtained the topography of perceptible (a perfect-fit feeling) clothing pressures from the chest to groin, when a stretching material provided hoop tension to the body surface of participants. Furthermore, the allowable pressure level was examined for the abdomen, which is pressed by underclothes on a daily basis.Design/methodology/approachParticipants were nine women aged 21.3 ± 1.2 years. Each participant's perception of pressure while wearing the experimental band was obtained in a questionnaire using a visual analog scale. Clothing pressure was measured employing a hydrostatic pressure-balancing method as participants adjusted the band length themselves to achieve two conditions: a perfect-fit and tight-fit on the abdomen.FindingsThe range of comfortable clothing pressure tightening provided by a 2.5 cm-wide elastic band on the abdomen was 0–5.6 hPa for under the bust, waist and groin, and 4.4–9.3 hPa for the chest, lower waist and hips. A nerve plexus of the autonomic nervous system and arteries are distributed over the body surface of the former body parts, which were thus sensitive to tightening around the abdomen.Originality/valueThe topography of perceptible clothing pressure was obtained when stretching material provided hoop tension to the body surface of the participant. The results of a participant questionnaire agreed with clothing pressure obtained using a hydrostatic pressure-balancing method that has a short-time constant and sensitive resolution. Furthermore, allowable pressure levels were proposed.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Boubaker Jaouachi ◽  
Faouzi Khedher

PurposeThis work highlights the optimization of the consumed amount of sewing thread required to make up a pair of jeans using three different metaheuristic methods; particular swarm optimization (PSO), ant colony optimization (ACO) and genetic algorithm (GA) techniques. Indeed, using metaheuristic optimization techniques enable industrialists to reach the lowest sewing thread quantities in terms of bobbins per garments. Besides, the compared results of this research can obviously prove the impact of each input parameter on the optimization of the sewing thread consumption per pair of jeans.Design/methodology/approachTo assess objectively the sewing thread consumption, the optimized sewing conditions such as thread composition, needle size and fabric composition are investigated and discussed. Hence, a Taguchi design was elaborated to evaluate and optimize objectively the linear model consumption. Thanks to its principal characteristics and popularity, denim fabric is selected to analyze objectively the effects of studied input parameters. In addition, having workers with same skills and qualifications to repeat each time the same sewing process will involve having the same sewing thread consumption values. This can occur in some levels such as end of sewing, the number of machine failures, the kind of failure and its complexity, the competency of the mechanic and his way to repair failure, the loss of thread caused by threading and its frequency. Seam repetition due to operator lack of skill will obviously affect clothing appearance and hence quality decision. Interesting findings and significant relationship between input parameters and the amount of sewing thread consumption are established.FindingsAccording to the comparative results obtained using metaheuristic methods, the PSO and ACO technique gives the lowest values of the consumption within the best combination of input parameters. The results show the accuracy of the applied metaheuristic methods to optimize the consumed amount needed to sew a pair of jeans with a notable superiority of both PSO and ACO methods compared to experimental ones. However, compared to GA method, ACO and PSO algorithms remained the most accurate techniques allowing industrials to minimize the consumed thread used to sew jeans. They can also widely optimize and predict the consumed thread in the investigated experimental design of interest. Consequently, compared to experimental results and regarding the low error values obtained, it may be concluded that the metaheuristic methods can optimize and evaluate both studied input and output parameters accurately.Practical implicationsThis study is most useful for denim industrial applications, which makes it possible to anticipate, calculate and minimize the high consumption of sewing threads. This paper has not only practical implications for clothing appearance and quality but also for reduction in thread wastage occurring during shop floor conditions like machine running, thread breakage, repairs, etc. (Kawabata and Niwa, 1991). Unless the used sewing machine is equipped within a thread trimmer improvement in garment seam appearance cannot be achieved. By comparing and analyzing the operating activities of the regular lock stitch 301 machine with and without a thread trimmer, a difference in time processing can be grasped (Magazine JUKI Corporation, 2008). Time consumed in trimming by a lockstitch machine without a thread trimmer equals 3.1 s compared to 2.6 s by a thread trimming one. Hence, the reduction rate in the time processing equals 16.30%. This paper aimed to implement the optimal consumption (thread waste outstanding number of trials). Unless highly skilled workers are selected and well-motivated, the previous recommended changes will not be applied. The saved cost of the sewing thread reduction can be used to buy a better quality of fabric and/or thread. However, these factors are not always the same as they can vary according to customer's requirements because thread consumption is never a standard for sewn product categories such as trousers, shirts and footwear (Khedher and Jaouachi, 2015).Originality/valueUntil now, there is no work dealing with the investigation of the metaheuristic optimization of the consumed thread per pair of jeans to minimize accurately the amount of sewing thread as well as the sewing thread wastage. Even though these techniques of optimization are currently in full development due to some advantages such as generality and possible application to a large class of combinatorial and constrained assignment problems, efficiency for many problems in providing good quality approximate solutions for a large number of classical optimization problems and large-scale real applications, etc., are not applied yet to decrease sewing thread consumption. Some recent published works used statistical techniques (Taguchi, factorial, etc.), to evaluate approximate consumptions; conversely, other geometrical and mathematical approaches, considering some assumptions, used stitch geometry and remained insufficient to give the industrialists an implemented application generating the exact value of the consumed amount of sewing thread. Generally, in the clothing field 10–15% of sewing thread wastage should be added to the experimental approximate consumption value. Moreover, all investigations are focused on the approximative evaluations and theoretical modeling of sewing thread consumption as function of some input parameters. Practically, the obtained results are successfully applied and the ACO method gives the most accurate results. On the other hand, in the point of view of industrialists the applied metaheuristic methods (based on algorithms) used to decrease the amount of consumed thread remained an easy and fruitful solution that can allow them to control the number of sewing thread bobbin per garments.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Xiaoxi Zhou ◽  
Yue Xu ◽  
Tui Chen

PurposeThis paper aims to identify the relationship between users' perception image, clothing design features and users' preference and propose a clothing design scheme based on users perception image and users' preference.Design/methodology/approachIn this paper, men's suit is composed into multiple design features under the design elements. Using the orthogonal experiment method, 16 schemes of the representative suit are designed. Through perception evaluation experiment, users' perception images and preference degree of the samples are obtained. By partial least squares (PLS) analysis method, the models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference are built.FindingsThe interrelationship between the three is identified by establishing PLS models between users' perception image, suit design features and users' preference. According to the coefficients of the models, the optimization schemes of men's suits considering users' perception image and preference are proposed. Verification results show that the optimization schemes are significantly better than other schemes.Originality/valueThe results of this paper can be used for consumer demand-oriented clothing design and provide references and methods for converting consumer's perceived needs into clothing design features.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Xingyu Wen ◽  
Jing Zhang ◽  
Mincheol Whang ◽  
Kaixuan Liu

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to discuss the relationship between bra's visual impression and bra parts, and then to explore the application of visual impression in bra design.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, 82 female undergraduates are asked to answered this questionnaire online, which is about the importance of parts in bra design. In the part of data analysis, the method of principal part analysis (PCA) are used to get the relationship between bra's parts, and reduce dimension of factors that influence bra design. After that, those group of features are further discussed from the perspective of visual design. Finally, design an application based on conclusion.FindingsTo get the influence features of bra appearance and improve the visual design effect, this paper matches the bra parts with visual features (color, texture, shape and space) and presents four main features of bra design: “color,” “visual texture,” “design shape” and “spatial expression” together with corresponding bra parts and technique of expression. Moreover, user interface in bra cloud customization is designed.Practical implicationsThe conclusion, which shows the corresponding relationship between bra visual effect and its basic parts, has an important role in bra visual design. First, it can be useful for design idea with different technique of expression, which may supply a theoretical basis for design. Secondly, the combination of bra parts and visual features can be used to evaluate the appearance.Originality/valueDiscussing the bra visual impression based on bra's basic parts and visual features provides a theoretical method for bra design and its appearance evaluation.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Hannah Weiss ◽  
Yaritza Hernandez ◽  
K. Han Kim ◽  
Sudhakar L. Rajulu

PurposeThe suboptimal fit of a spacesuit can interfere with a crewmember's performance and is regarded as a potential risk factor for injury. To quantify suit fit, a virtual fit assessment model was previously developed to identify suit-to-body contact and interference using 3D human body scans and suit CAD models. However, ancillary suit components and garments worn inside of the suit have not been incorporated.Design/methodology/approachThis study was conducted to predict a 3D model of the liquid cooling and ventilation garment (LCVG) from an arbitrary person's body scan. A total of 14 subjects were scanned in a scan wear and LCVG condition. A statistical model was generated using principal component analysis and random forest regression technique.FindingsThe model was able to predict the geometry of the LCVG layer at the accuracy of 5.3 cm maximum error and 1.7 cm root mean square error. The errors were more pronounced for the arms and lower torso, while the thighs and upper torso regions, which are critical for suit fit assessments, show more accurate predictions. A case study of suit fit with and without the LCVG model demonstrated that the new model can enhance the scope and accuracy of future spacesuit assessments.Originality/valueThe capabilities resulting from these modeling techniques would greatly expand the assessments of fit of the garment on various anthropometries. The results from this study can significantly improve the design process modeling and initial suit sizing efforts to optimize crew performance during extravehicular activity training and missions.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Hyunjung Han ◽  
Jeong Ha Kim

PurposeThis study suggest the development of a wearable orthotic device pattern that can reduce pain and deformation, and help in the normal development of children with cerebral palsy. Such a pattern enables daily wear before hip subluxation occurs, to prevent hip dislocation and subluxation.Design/methodology/approachThis study set the design line by carrying out cell work on the actual model, then proceeded with the first pattern design. The final version of the second orthotic device was designed by conducting discussions with experts and the patient's guardian, with the device fitted to the child patient. The evaluation of the second orthotic device used the virtual model to check the pressure area and level through virtual fitting. An evaluation was then conducted with the device fitted to the child patient, to verify the functionality and suitability of the final pattern.FindingsFollowing the initial fitting evaluation, the second pattern was presented after modifying and supplementing issues such as movement suitability with posture change, position change of the great trochanter when wearing a diaper, pressure control of the X-shaped band on the genital area and thigh abduction. The master pattern of the final version of the second orthotic device was proposed after confirming that the femoral head of the hip joint was stably fixed, and the compression was applied through a verification based on the virtual fitting using the virtual model, and with the device fitted to the child patient.Originality/valueWith this study, it is expected that the process and design plan for the development of wearable orthotic device patterns for the persons with disabilities impaired mobility can be used as a basic resource to create devices that merge the clothing and medical fields.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Zhoufeng Liu ◽  
Menghan Wang ◽  
Chunlei Li ◽  
Shumin Ding ◽  
Bicao Li

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to focus on the design of a dual-branch balance saliency model based on fully convolutional network (FCN) for automatic fabric defect detection, and improve quality control in textile manufacturing.Design/methodology/approachThis paper proposed a dual-branch balance saliency model based on discriminative feature for fabric defect detection. A saliency branch is firstly designed to address the problems of scale variation and contextual information integration, which is realized through the cooperation of a multi-scale discriminative feature extraction module (MDFEM) and a bidirectional stage-wise integration module (BSIM). These modules are respectively adopted to extract multi-scale discriminative context information and enrich the contextual information of features at each stage. In addition, another branch is proposed to balance the network, in which a bootstrap refinement module (BRM) is trained to guide the restoration of feature details.FindingsTo evaluate the performance of the proposed network, we conduct extensive experiments, and the experimental results demonstrate that the proposed method outperforms state-of-the-art (SOTA) approaches on seven evaluation metrics. We also conduct adequate ablation analyses that provide a full understanding of the design principles of the proposed method.Originality/valueThe dual-branch balance saliency model was proposed and applied into the fabric defect detection. The qualitative and quantitative experimental results show the effectiveness of the detection method. Therefore, the proposed method can be used for accurate fabric defect detection and even surface defect detection of other industrial products.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Gaoping Xu ◽  
Hao Zhang ◽  
Zhuo Meng ◽  
Yize Sun

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to propose an automatic interpolation algorithm for robot spraying trajectories based on cubic Non-Uniform Rational B-Splines (NURBS) curves, to solve the problem of sparse and incomplete trajectory points of the head and heel of the shoe sole when extracting robot motion trajectories using structured-light 3D cameras and to ensure the robot joints move smoothly, so as to achieve a good effect of automatic spraying of the shoe sole with a 7-degree-of-freedom (DOF) robot.Design/methodology/approachFirstly, the original shoe sole edge trajectory position points acquired by the 3D camera are fitted with NURBS curves. Then, the velocity constraint at the local maximum of the trajectory curvature is used as the reference for curve segmentation and S-shaped acceleration and deceleration planning. Immediately, real-time interpolation is performed in the time domain to obtain the position and orientation of each point of the robot motion trajectory. Finally, the inverse kinematics of the anthropomorphic motion of the 7-DOF robot arm is used to obtain the joint motion trajectory.FindingsThe simulation and experiment prove that the shoe sole spraying trajectory is complete, the spraying effect is good and the robot joint movement is smooth, which show that the algorithm is feasible.Originality/valueThis study is of good practical value for improving the quality of automated shoe sole spraying, and it has wide applicability for different shoe sole shapes.


2021 ◽  
Vol ahead-of-print (ahead-of-print) ◽  
Author(s):  
Wang Yu ◽  
Gang Chen ◽  
Haiyan Yang ◽  
Sisi Li

PurposeA series of sulfate-based Gemini anionic surfactants were synthesized via etherification, ring opening and sulfation reactions using epichlorohydrin, fatty alcohol, ethylene glycol and chlorosulfonic acid as the main raw materials. Orthogonal experiments for 1,8-bisalkoxymethylene-3,6-dioxin-1,8-octane disulfate were performed on the sulfation reaction to determine the optimal reaction conditions.Design/methodology/approachA series of sulfate-based Gemini anionic surfactants were synthesized via etherification, ring opening and sulfation reactions using epichlorohydrin, fatty alcohol, ethylene glycol and chlorosulfonic acid as the main raw materials. Orthogonal experiments for 1,8-bisalkoxymethylene-3,6-dioxin-1,8-octane disulfate were performed on the sulfation reaction to determine the optimal reaction conditions. The structures of the intermediate and final products were characterized by FT-IR (Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis), 1H-NMR (proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy) methods. The thermal performance of surfactants was analyzed using thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The thermogravimetric results showed that the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants had good heat resistance (the thermal decomposition temperature of which was in the range of 140∼170?). The Krafft point, surface tension, foaming, Hydrophile–Lipophile Balance Number (HLB), emulsifying, wetting, and lime-soap dispersing performance were measured by visual observation, hanging drop method, aqueous surfactant solution method and Borghetti–Bergman method, respectively. The results have shown that all the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants had good water solubility and lime-soap dispersing ability. When spacer group was -(CH2)2-, with the increase of the carbon chain length from C12 to C14, the micellar concentration critical micelle concentration and surface tension (CMC) gradually increased from 8.25 × 10–4 mol/L to 8.75 × 10–4 mol/L and 27.5 mN/m to 30.9 mN/m, respectively. Also, the sulfate-based Gemini surfactants with the different length of the spacer group had a different effect on their performance on foaming properties and foam properties, HLB and emulsifying ability and wetting ability. FindingsIn view of the important role of the spacer group and the general use of anionic surfactants in oil fields, this article considers the preparation of a series of sulfate-based Gemini surfactants by changing the spacer group and the chain length of the hydrophobic group and evaluating their surface activity, and finally its Kraffi, on the foam properties, HLB value, emulsifying performance, lime soap dispersing ability etc.Originality/valueSulfate-based Gemini surfactants have broad application prospects in the fields of oil and gas exploitation, environmental protection, chemistry and daily chemical industry and so on.


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