Lagrangian Simulation of Breaking Waves Using Particle Method

1999 ◽  
Vol 41 (3-4) ◽  
pp. 303-326 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hitoshi Gotoh ◽  
Tetsuo Sakai
2014 ◽  
Vol 34 ◽  
pp. 1460375 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mimi Gao ◽  
Chan Ghee Koh ◽  
Min Luo ◽  
Wei Bai

The recently developed Consistent Particle Method (CPM) is used to model breaking waves in tsunami and violent sloshing waves in a moving tank. Solving the Navier-Stokes equations in a semi-implicit time stepping scheme, the CPM eliminates the use of kernel function which is somewhat arbitrarily defined and used in other particle methods. It is demonstrated that the method is applicable to large amplitude free surface wave problems that involve breaking phenomenon. Tsunami wave impact on a fixed structure is modeled using CPM. The simulated results show fairly good agreement to the actual nonlinear wave motions including overturning and breaking of waves. Large amplitude sloshing waves in a moving tank are investigated with CPM. Experiment was conducted in the laboratory to verify the CPM solutions. The hydrodynamic pressure computed by the CPM agrees well with the experimental results.


2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


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