Rip Currents Onshore Submarine Canyons

2002 ◽  
Author(s):  
Thomas C. Lippmann ◽  
K. T. Holland
2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
Thomas C. Lippmann

2003 ◽  
Author(s):  
Thomas C. Lippmann ◽  
K. T. Holland

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 83 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert A. Dalrymple

"The outworn dogmas of science seem to be particularly concentrated in the discussions of the ocean in geology books". Beginning with this controversial statement, F. P. Shepard in 1936 tried to lay to rest the concept of the undertow, which had been debated in the pages of Science for over a decade. At the same time, he introduced the term, rip current, to describe the rapidly seaward-flowing currents, which were well-known to lifeguards at that time, as these currents were responsible for carrying swimmers offshore at frightening speeds. Subsequent studies by Shepard and his colleagues (Shepard, Emery and LaFond, 1941; Shepard and Inman, 1950a, 1950b) showed that rip currents (1) are caused by longshore variations in incident wave height, (2) are often periodic in both time and in the longshore direction and (3) increase in velocity with increasing wave height. The major reason put forth to explain the variation in wave height was the convergence or divergence of wave rays over offshore bottom topography (such as submarine canyons) or the forced wave height variability caused by coastal structures, such as jetties. McKenzie (1958) and Cooke (1970) in their studies corroborated the findings of the Scripps Institution of Oceanography researchers and also pointed out the persistence of rip currents (once high energy waves in a storm had caused rip channels to be cut into the bottom) after the storm had abated. In fact it appears that on coastlines which are affected by major storms which build offshore bars, that the nearshore circulation may be dominated by the storm-1-induced bottom topography for long afterwards. The researchers up to the late 1960's who attempted to theoretically model rip currents knew the importance of longshore wave height variability and the wave-induced set-up in the formation of rip currents, but it was not until Longuet-Higgins and Stewart (e.g., 1964) codified the wave momentum flux tensor that great strides were made in providing models for rip currents. This paper is intended to categorize and review the more recent theories for rip current generation and to discuss a simple model for rip currents on barred coastlines.


2015 ◽  
Vol 539 ◽  
pp. 77-91 ◽  
Author(s):  
JT Kool ◽  
Z Huang ◽  
SL Nichol

OCEANS 2009 ◽  
2009 ◽  
Author(s):  
Julian Simeonov ◽  
Todd Holland ◽  
Steven Spansel
Keyword(s):  

Shore & Beach ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 14-36
Author(s):  
Gary Griggs ◽  
Kiki Patsch ◽  
Charles Lester ◽  
Ryan Anderson

Beaches form a significant component of the economy, history, and culture of southern California. Yet both the construction of dams and debris basins in coastal watersheds and the armoring of eroding coastal cliffs and bluffs have reduced sand supply. Ultimately, most of this beach sand is permanently lost to the submarine canyons that intercept littoral drift moving along this intensively used shoreline. Each decade the volume of lost sand is enough to build a beach 100 feet wide, 10 feet deep and 20 miles long, or a continuous beach extending from Newport Bay to San Clemente. Sea-level rise will negatively impact the beaches of southern California further, specifically those with back beach barriers such as seawalls, revetments, homes, businesses, highways, or railroads. Over 75% of the beaches in southern California are retained by structures, whether natural or artificial, and groin fields built decades ago have been important for local beach growth and stabilization efforts. While groins have been generally discouraged in recent decades in California, and there are important engineering and environmental considerations involved prior to any groin construction, the potential benefits are quite large for the intensively used beaches and growing population of southern California, particularly in light of predicted sea-level rise and public beach loss. All things considered, in many areas groins or groin fields may well meet the objectives of the California Coastal Act, which governs coastal land-use decisions. There are a number of shoreline areas in southern California where sand is in short supply, beaches are narrow, beach usage is high, and where sand retention structures could be used to widen or stabilize local beaches before sand is funneled offshore by submarine canyons intercepting littoral drift. Stabilizing and widening the beaches would add valuable recreational area, support beach ecology, provide a buffer for back beach infrastructure or development, and slow the impacts of a rising sea level.


2021 ◽  
Vol 41 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
S. Susanth ◽  
P. John Kurian ◽  
C. M. Bijesh ◽  
D. Twinkle ◽  
Abhishek Tyagi ◽  
...  

2021 ◽  
pp. 101816
Author(s):  
Patrick Marchesiello ◽  
Francis Auclair ◽  
Laurent Debreu ◽  
James McWilliams ◽  
Rafael Almar ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

Oceanologia ◽  
2020 ◽  
Vol 62 (3) ◽  
pp. 291-308
Author(s):  
Aleksandra Dudkowska ◽  
Aleksandra Boruń ◽  
Jakub Malicki ◽  
Jan Schönhofer ◽  
Gabriela Gic-Grusza

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