scholarly journals New procedure for determining equivalent deep-water wave height and design wave heights under irregular wave conditions

2020 ◽  
Vol 12 ◽  
pp. 168-177 ◽  
Author(s):  
Haneul Kang ◽  
Insik Chun ◽  
Byungcheol Oh
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Deep Water Wave

scholarly journals Storm Waves at the Shoreline: When and Where Are Infragravity Waves Important?

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (5) ◽  
pp. 139 ◽  
Author(s):  
Oliver Billson ◽  
Paul Russell ◽  
Mark Davidson
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Sandy Beach ◽  
Transport Processes ◽  
Infragravity Waves ◽  
Storm Wave ◽  
Wave Conditions ◽  
Gravel Beaches ◽  
Deep Water Wave ◽  
Sand And Gravel

Infragravity waves (frequency, f = 0.005–0.05 Hz) are known to dominate hydrodynamic and sediment transport processes close to the shoreline on low-sloping sandy beaches, especially when incident waves are large. However, in storm wave conditions, how their importance varies on different beach types, and with different mixes of swell and wind-waves is largely unknown. Here, a new dataset, comprising shoreline video observations from five contrasting sites (one low-sloping sandy beach, two steep gravel beaches, and two compound/mixed sand and gravel beaches), under storm wave conditions (deep water wave height, H0 up to 6.6 m, and peak period, Tp up to 18.2 s), was used to assess: how the importance and dominance of infragravity waves varies at the shoreline? In this previously unstudied combination of wave and morphological conditions, significant infragravity swash heights (Sig) at the shoreline in excess of 0.5 m were consistently observed on all five contrasting beaches. The largest infragravity swash heights were observed on a steep gravel beach, followed by the low-sloping sandy beach, and lowest on the compound/mixed sites. Due to contrasting short wave breaking and dissipation processes, infragravity frequencies were observed to be most dominant over gravity frequencies on the low-sloping sandy beach, occasionally dominant on the gravel beaches, and rarely dominant on the compound/mixed beaches. Existing empirical predictive relationships were shown to parameterize Sig skillfully on the sand and gravel beaches separately. Deep water wave power was found to accurately predict Sig on both the sand and gravel beaches, demonstrating that, under storm wave conditions, the wave heights and periods are the main drivers of infragravity oscillations at the shoreline, with the beach morphology playing a secondary role. The exception to this was the compound/mixed beach sites where shoreline infragravity energy remained low.

scholarly journals WAVE HEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND WAVE GROUPING IN SURF ZONE

1982 ◽  
Vol 1 (18) ◽  
pp. 4 ◽  
Author(s):  
Hajime Mase ◽  
Yuichi Iwagaki
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Irregular Waves ◽  
Wave Transformation ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Frequency Distributions ◽  
Irregular Wave ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Heights ◽  
Deep Water Wave

The main purpose of this paper is to propose a model for prediction of the spatial distributions of representative wave heights and the frequency distributions of wave heights of irregular waves in shallow-water including the surf zone. In order to examine the validity of the model, some experiments of irregular wave transformation have been made. In addition, an attempt has been made to clarify the spatial distribution of wave grouping experimentally. Especially the present paper focuses finding the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-water wave steepness on the wave height distribution and wave grouping.

scholarly journals MODEL TESTS ON THE BELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DEEP--WATEB WAVE CHARACTERISTICS AND LONGSHORE CURRENTS

1964 ◽  
Vol 1 (9) ◽  
pp. 11 ◽  
Author(s):  
Arthur Brebner ◽  
J.W. Kamphus
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Model Tests ◽  
Shore Line ◽  
Beach Slope ◽  
Wave Characteristics ◽  
Longshore Currents ◽  
Deep Water Wave

It has Long been recognized that the movement of Littoral material takes place, in the main, in the onshore regions of a beach where breaking of waves occurs. Waves whose crests in deep water make an angLe o(a with the shore Line, and which break at an angLe C*© , are the mam source of energy for the generation of the forces which manifest themselves in Long-shore currents and the resulting LittoraL transport. This littoraL materiaL is put into motion before, during and after breaking but it is extremeLy difficult to separate the effects of the forces and currents in these three zones. In what foLlows the authors have attempted to measure the intensity of the current around the breaking zone in a highLy ideaLized beach model in which the shore Line is straight, has a constant beach sLope, 0, and is attacked by waves of constant deep-water wave-height, HQ, and period, T. During refraction and shoaLing the angLe of the wave-crests with the shore-Line is reduced from o

scholarly journals ON A DESIGN WAVE SPECTRUM

1984 ◽  
Vol 1 (19) ◽  
pp. 25
Author(s):  
Paul C. Liu
Keyword(s):  
Great Lakes ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Wave Spectrum ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Practical Applications ◽  
Average Wave ◽  
Deep Water Wave

We propose the use of a generalized representation for acquiring a design wave spectrum. The generalized form, free from any predetermined coefficients and exponents, requires only significant wave height and average wave period as input for practical applications. The usefulness of this representation has been demonstrated with over 2000 measured deep-water wave spectra recorded from NOMAD buoys in the Great Lakes during 1981.

scholarly journals Computational Fluid Dynamics Simulation of Deep-Water Wave Instabilities Involving Wave Breaking

2021 ◽  
Vol 144 (2) ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuzhu Li ◽  
David R. Fuhrman
Keyword(s):  
Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Computational Fluid Dynamics ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Class Ii ◽  
Dynamics Simulation ◽  
Class I ◽  
Wave Instabilities ◽  
Deep Water Wave

Abstract Instabilities of deep-water wave trains subject to initially small perturbations (which then grow exponentially) can lead to extreme waves in offshore regions. The present study focuses on the two-dimensional Benjamin–Feir (or modulational) instability and the three-dimensional crescent (or horseshoe) waves, also known as Class I and Class II instabilities, respectively. Numerical studies on Class I and Class II wave instabilities to date have been mostly limited to models founded on potential flow theory; thus, they could only properly investigate the process from initial growth of the perturbations to the initial breaking point. The present study conducts numerical simulations to investigate the generation and development of wave instabilities involving the wave breaking process. A computational fluid dynamics (CFD) model solving Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations coupled with a turbulence closure model in terms of the Reynolds stress model is applied. Wave form evolutions, Fourier amplitudes, and the turbulence beneath the broken waves are investigated.

Laboratory Observations on the Evolution of Deep-Water Wave Packets

2011 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yuxiang Ma ◽  
Guohai Dong ◽  
Xiaozhou Ma
Keyword(s):  
Experimental Data ◽  
Deep Water ◽  
Wave Breaking ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Wave Packets ◽  
Local Maximum ◽  
Peak Frequency ◽  
Higher Harmonics ◽  
Stokes Waves ◽  
Deep Water Wave

New experimental data for the evolution of deep-water wave packets has been presented. The present experimental data shows that the local maximum steepness for extreme waves is significantly above the criterion of the limiting Stokes waves. The wavelet spectra of the wave groups around the breaking locations indicate that the energy of higher harmonics can be generated quickly before wave breaking and mainly concentrate at the part of the wave fronts. After wave breaking, however, these higher harmonics energy is dissipated immediately. Furthermore, the variations of local peak frequency have also been examined. It is found that frequency downshift increases with the increase of initial steepness and wave packet size.

scholarly journals Experimental Realization of Periodic Deep-Water Wave Envelopes with and without Dissipation

Water Waves ◽  
2019 ◽  
Vol 2 (1) ◽  
pp. 113-122 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Magnani ◽  
M. Onorato ◽  
D. Gunn ◽  
M. Rudman ◽  
B. Kibler ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Deep Water ◽  
Water Wave ◽  
Experimental Realization ◽  
Deep Water Wave
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