scholarly journals Directional wave measurements from three wave sensors during the FETCH experiment

Author(s):  
Heidi Pettersson
2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Robert Edward Jensen ◽  
Val Swail ◽  
Richard Harry Bouchard

AbstractAn intra-measurement evaluation was undertaken, deploying a NOMAD buoy equipped with three National Data Buoy Center and two Environment and Climate Change Canada-AXYS sensor/payload packages off Monterey, California; a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy was deployed within 19 km of the NOMAD site. The six independent wave measurement systems reported hourly estimates of the frequency spectra, and when applicable, the four Fourier directional components. The integral wave parameters showed general agreement among the five sensors compared to the neighboring Datawell Directional Waverider, with the Inclinometer and the Watchman performing similarly to the more sophisticated 3DMG, HIPPY, and Triaxys sensor packages. As the Hm0 increased, all but the Inclinometer were biased low; however, even the Watchman reported reasonable wave measurements up to about 6–7 m, after which the Hm0 becomes negatively biased up to about a meter, comparable to previous studies. The parabolic fit peak spectral wave period, Tpp, results showed a large scatter, resulting from the complex nature of multiple swell wave systems compounded by local wind-sea development, exacerbated by a variable that can be considered as temporally unstable. The three directional sensors demonstrated that NOMAD buoys are capable of measuring directional wave properties along the western US coast, with biases of about 6 to 9 deg, and rms errors of approximately 30 deg. Frequency spectral evaluations found similarities in the shape, but a significant under estimation in the high frequency range. The results from slope analyses also revealed a positive bias in the rear face of the spectra, and a lack of invariance in frequency as suggested by theory.


2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anne Karin Magnusson ◽  
Robert Jensen ◽  
Val Swail

AbstractThe quality of wave measurements is of primary importance for the validation of wave forecasting models, satellite wave calibration and validation, wave physics, offshore operations and design and climate monitoring. Validation of global wave forecasts revealed significant regional differences, which were linked to the different wave buoy systems used by different countries. To fully understand the differences between the wave measurement systems, it is necessary to go beyond investigations of the integral wave parameters height, period and direction, into the frequency spectra and the four directional Fourier parameters that are used to estimate the directional distribution. We here analyse wave data measured from three different sensors (non-directional Datawell Waverider buoy, WaveRadar Rex, Optech laser) operating at the Ekofisk oil production platform located in the central North Sea over a period of several months, with significant wave height ranging from 1 to 10 m. In general, all three sensors provide similar measurements of the integral wave properties and frequency spectra, although there are some significant differences which could impact design and operations, forecast verification and climate monitoring. For example, the radar underestimates energy in frequency bands higher than 8 s by 3–5%, swell (12.5–16 s) by 5–13%, while the laser has 1–2% more energy than the Waverider in the most energetic bands. Lee effects of structures are also estimated. Lower energy at the frequency tail with the radar has an effect on wave periods (they are higher); wave steepness is seen to be reduced by 10% in the wind seas. Goda peakedness and the unidirectional Benjamin-Feir index are also examined for the three sensors.


2016 ◽  
Vol 66 (9) ◽  
pp. 1087-1098 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lars R. Hole ◽  
Ilker Fer ◽  
David Peddie

2000 ◽  
Vol 22 (2) ◽  
pp. 95-101 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.L.B Carvalho ◽  
C.E Parente

2004 ◽  
Vol 128 (4) ◽  
pp. 265-270 ◽  
Author(s):  
K. C. Ewans ◽  
E. M. Bitner-Gregersen ◽  
C. Guedes Soares

Methods for separating the spectral components and describing bimodal wave spectra are evaluated with reference to wave spectra from directional wave measurements made at the Maui location off the west coast of New Zealand. Two methods involve partitioning bimodal wave spectra into wind-sea and swell components and then fitting a spectral function to each component, while the third assigns an average spectral shape based on the integrated spectral parameters. The partitioning methods involve separating the wave spectrum into two frequency bands: a low-frequency peak, the swell component, and a high-frequency peak, the wind-sea. One partitioning method uses only the frequency spectrum while the other analyzes the complete frequency-direction spectrum. Comparison of the spectral descriptions and derived parameters against the measured counterparts provides insight into the accuracy of the different approaches to describing actual bimodal sea states.


1996 ◽  
Vol 118 (4) ◽  
pp. 307-309 ◽  
Author(s):  
M. T. Pontes ◽  
G. A. Athanassoulis ◽  
S. Barstow ◽  
L. Cavaleri ◽  
B. Holmes ◽  
...  

An atlas of the European offshore wave energy resource, being developed within the scope of a European R&D program, includes the characterization of the offshore resource for the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts of Europe in addition to providing wave-energy and wave-climate statistics that are of interest to other users of the ocean. The wave data used for compiling the Atlas come from the numerical wind-wave model WAM, implemented in the routine operation of the European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF), in addition to directional wave measurements from the Norwegian offshore waters.


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