Directional Wave Spectra from Wave Sensors

1979 ◽  
pp. 269-300 ◽  
Author(s):  
Leon E. Borgman
2021 ◽  
Vol 230 ◽  
pp. 109057
Author(s):  
Mohammad Adibzade ◽  
Mehdi Shafieefar ◽  
Hassan Akbari ◽  
Roozbeh Panahi

1988 ◽  
Vol 1 (21) ◽  
pp. 3
Author(s):  
Tetsunori Ohshimo ◽  
Kosuke Kondo ◽  
Tsunehiro Sekimoto

Field investigations were performed in order to show the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters through directional wave spectra measurements in a harbor, and to estimate the reflection coefficient by resolving the incident and reflected wave energy in front of a composite type breakwater. Combinations of an ultrasonic wave gage (USW) and an electromagnetic current meter (EMC) were used to measure the synchronized data of the water surface elevation and two horizontal velocities. The EMLM (Extended Maximum Likelihood Method) was applied for the calculation of the directional wave spectrum, and the modified EMLM for an incident and reflection wave field was applied for the estimation of the reflection coefficient. Through the estimated directional wave spectra, the effect of wave diffraction by breakwaters were discussed and the reflection coefficient was estimated at about 0.9. As a result, the applicability of the field investigation method and the modified EMLM were verified.


1991 ◽  
Vol 113 (3) ◽  
pp. 219-227 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Cornett ◽  
M. D. Miles

This paper describes the generation and verification of four realistic sea states in a multidirectional wave basin, each representing a different storm wave condition in the Gulf of Mexico. In all cases, the degree of wave spreading and the mean direction of wave propagation are strongly dependent on frequency. Two of these sea states represent generic design wave conditions typical of hurricanes and winter storms and are defined by JONSWAP wave spectra and parametric spreading functions. Two additional sea states, representing the specific wave activity during hurricanes Betsy and Carmen, are defined by tabulated hindcast estimates of the directional wave energy spectrum. The Maximum Entropy Method (MEM) of directional wave analysis paired with a single-wave probe/ bi-directional current meter sensor is found to be the most satisfactory method to measure multidirectional seas in a wave basin over a wide range of wave conditions. The accuracy of the wave generation and analysis process is verified using residual directional spectra and numerically synthesized signals to supplement those measured in the basin. Reasons for discrepancy between the measured and target directional wave spectra are explored. By attempting to reproduce such challenging sea states, much has been learned about the limitations of simulating real ocean waves in a multidirectional wave basin, and about techniques which can be used to minimize the associated distortions to the directional spectrum.


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