A sedimentological record of fluvial-aeolian interactions and climate variability in the hyperarid northern Namib Desert, Namibia

The aeolian regime of the 100 km wide, hyperarid Namib Desert has been sporadically punctuated by the deposition of fluvial sediments generated during periods of higher humidity either further inland or well within the desert from Late Oligocene to Late Holocene. Four new Late Cenozoic formations are described from the northern Skeleton Coast and compared with formations further south: the Klein Nadas, Nadas (gravels, sands), Vulture’s Nest (silts) and Uniab Boulder Formations. The Klein Nadas Formation is a trimodal mass-flow fan consisting of thousands of huge, remobilised, end-Carboniferous Dwyka glacial boulders, many >3 m in length, set in an abundant, K-feldspar-rich and sandy matrix of fine gravel. Deluge rains over the smallest catchments deep within the northern Namib were the driving agent for the Klein Nadas Fan, the termination of which, with its contained boulders, rests on the coastal salt pans. These rains also resulted in catastrophic mass flows in several of the other northern Namib rivers. The Uniab Boulder Formation, being one, consists only of huge free-standing boulders. Gravelly fluvial deposition took place during global interglacial and glacial events. The Skeleton Coast Erg and other smaller dune trains blocked the rivers at times. The low-energy, thinly bedded silt deposits of the central and northern Namib are quite distinctive from the sands and gravels of older deposits. Their intermittent deposition is illustrated by bioturbation and pedogenesis of individual layers. Published offshore proxy climatological data (pollens, upwelling, wind, sea surface temperatures) point to expansion of the winter-rainfall regime of the southern Cape into southwestern Angola during strong glacial periods between the Upper Pleistocene and Holocene. In contrast to deposition initiated by short summer thunder storms, we contend that the silt successions are river-end accumulations within which each layer was deposited by runoff from comparatively gentle winter rains that lasted several days.

Thinner Sea Ice Contribution to the Remarkable Polynya Formation North of Greenland in August 2018

In August 2018, a remarkable polynya was observed off the north coast of Greenland, a perennial ice zone where thick sea ice cover persists. In order to investigate the formation process of this polynya, satellite observations, a coupled ice-ocean model, ocean profiling data, and atmosphere reanalysis data were applied. We found that the thinnest sea ice cover in August since 1978 (mean value of 1.1 m, compared to the average value of 2.8 m during 1978–2017) and the modest southerly wind caused by a positive North Atlantic Oscillation (mean value of 0.82, compared to the climatological value of −0.02) were responsible for the formation and maintenance of this polynya. The opening mechanism of this polynya differs from the one formed in February 2018 in the same area caused by persistent anomalously high wind. Sea ice drift patterns have become more responsive to the atmospheric forcing due to thinning of sea ice cover in this region.

Quantifying wave measurement differences in historical and present wave buoy systems

An intra-measurement evaluation was undertaken, deploying a NOMAD buoy equipped with three National Data Buoy Center and two Environment and Climate Change Canada-AXYS sensor/payload packages off Monterey, California; a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy was deployed within 19 km of the NOMAD site. The six independent wave measurement systems reported hourly estimates of the frequency spectra, and when applicable, the four Fourier directional components. The integral wave parameters showed general agreement among the five sensors compared to the neighboring Datawell Directional Waverider, with the Inclinometer and the Watchman performing similarly to the more sophisticated 3DMG, HIPPY, and Triaxys sensor packages. As the Hm0 increased, all but the Inclinometer were biased low; however, even the Watchman reported reasonable wave measurements up to about 6–7 m, after which the Hm0 becomes negatively biased up to about a meter, comparable to previous studies. The parabolic fit peak spectral wave period, Tpp, results showed a large scatter, resulting from the complex nature of multiple swell wave systems compounded by local wind-sea development, exacerbated by a variable that can be considered as temporally unstable. The three directional sensors demonstrated that NOMAD buoys are capable of measuring directional wave properties along the western US coast, with biases of about 6 to 9 deg, and rms errors of approximately 30 deg. Frequency spectral evaluations found similarities in the shape, but a significant under estimation in the high frequency range. The results from slope analyses also revealed a positive bias in the rear face of the spectra, and a lack of invariance in frequency as suggested by theory.

The physics of ocean wave evolution within tropical cyclones

A series of numerical experiments with the WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model are used to investigate the physics of wave evolution in tropical cyclones. Buoy observations show that tropical cyclone wave spectra are directionally skewed with a continuum of energy between locally generated wind-sea and remotely generated waves. These systems are often separated by more than 900. The model spectra are consistent with the observed buoy data and are shown to be governed by nonlinear wave-wave interactions which result in a cascade of energy from the wind-sea to the remotely generated spectral peak. The peak waves act in a “parasitic” manner taking energy from the wind-sea to maintain their growth. The critical role of nonlinear processes explains why one-dimensional tropical cyclone spectra have characteristics very similar to fetch-limited waves, even though the generation system is far more complex. The results also provide strong validation of the critical role nonlinear interactions play in wind-wave evolution.

Investigation on Spectrum Estimation Methods for Bimodal Sea State Conditions

The reliable monitoring of sea state parameters is a key factor for weather forecasting, as well as for ensuring the safety and navigation of ships. In the current analysis, two spectrum estimation techniques, based on the Welch and Thomson methods, were applied to a set of random wave signals generated from a theoretical wave spectrum obtained by combining wind sea and swell components with the same prevailing direction but different combinations of significant wave heights, peak periods, and peak enhancement factors. A wide benchmark study was performed to systematically apply and compare the two spectrum estimation methods. In this respect, different combinations of wind sea spectra, corresponding to four grades of the Douglas Scale, were combined with three swell spectra corresponding to different swell categories. The main aim of the benchmark study was to systematically investigate the effectiveness of the Welch and Thomson methods in terms of spectrum restitution and the assessment of sea state parameters. The spectrum estimation methods were applied to random wave signals with different durations, namely 600 s (short) and 3600 s (long), to investigate how the record length affected the assembled sea state parameters, which, in turn, were assessed by the nonlinear least square method. Finally, based on the main outcomes of the benchmark study, some suggestions are provided to select the most suitable spectrum reconstruction method and increase the effectiveness of the assembled sea state parameters.

Projected incremental changes to extreme wind-driven wave heights for the twenty-first century

Global climate change will alter wind sea and swell waves, modifying the severity, frequency and impact of episodic coastal flooding and morphological change. Global-scale estimates of increases to coastal impacts have been typically attributed to sea level rise and not specifically to changes to waves on their own. This study provides a reduced complexity method for applying projected extreme wave changes to local scale impact studies. We use non-stationary extreme value analysis to distil an incremental change signal in extreme wave heights and associate this with a change in the frequency of events globally. Extreme wave heights are not projected to increase everywhere. We find that the largest increases will typically be experienced at higher latitudes, and that there is high ensemble model agreement on an increase (doubling of events) for the waters south of Australia, the Arabian Sea and the Gulf of Guinea by the end of the twenty-first century.