Influence of processes of nonlinear transformations of waves in the coastal zone on the height of breaking waves

Oceanology ◽  
2017 ◽  
Vol 57 (3) ◽  
pp. 383-393 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ya. V. Saprykina ◽  
S. Yu. Kuznetsov ◽  
B. V. Divinskii
Author(s):  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Margarita Shtremel

Based on experimental data, the problem of parametrization of spatial variation of the phase shift (biphase) between the first and second nonlinear harmonics of wave motion during wave transformation over sloping bottom in the coastal zone is discussed. It is revealed that the biphase values vary in the range [–π/2, π/2]. Biphase variations rigorously follow fluctuations in amplitudes of the first and second harmonics and the periodicity of energy exchange between them. The empirical relation applied in modern practice to calculate the biphase, which depends on the Ursell number, is incorrect for calculating the biphase for wave evolution in the coastal zone, because it does not take into account periodic energy exchange between the nonlinear harmonics. The new approximations of the biphase values for typical scenarios of wave transformations are suggested. It was demonstrated that the biphase of breaking waves defines breaking index and breaking type.


2005 ◽  
Author(s):  
Boris S. Grigoriev ◽  
Vladimir S. Belyaev
Keyword(s):  

2018 ◽  
Vol 168 (2) ◽  
pp. 343-360 ◽  
Author(s):  
Lucía Gutiérrez-Loza ◽  
Francisco J. Ocampo-Torres ◽  
Héctor García-Nava
Keyword(s):  

2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


2015 ◽  
pp. 63
Author(s):  
A. V. Porotov ◽  
Yu. V. Gorlov ◽  
T. A. Yanina ◽  
E. Fouache
Keyword(s):  

2018 ◽  
Vol 28 (2) ◽  
pp. 226-232
Author(s):  
Nguyễn Quang Hưng ◽  
Trần Trọng Huệ ◽  
Nguyễn Xuân Huyên ◽  
Doãn Đình Lâm ◽  
Phan Đông Pha ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  

Assessment of subaerial sediment environment for aquaculture planning in Hai Hau coastal zone


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document