scholarly journals Reflection of Strongly Nonlinear Waves from a Vertical Wall on a Sloping Beach

Author(s):  
Wataru KIOKA ◽  
Masashi OKAJIMA ◽  
Toshikazu KITANO
2008 ◽  
Vol 55 ◽  
pp. 11-15
Author(s):  
Wataru KIOKA ◽  
Yudai IWATSUKA ◽  
Katsunori HIGO ◽  
Toshikazu KITANO

2011 ◽  
pp. 1762-1769
Author(s):  
W. KIOKA ◽  
T. KITANO ◽  
M. OKAJIMA ◽  
N. MIYABE

1998 ◽  
Vol 167 ◽  
pp. 151-154
Author(s):  
Y.D. Zhugzhda ◽  
V.M. Nakariakov

AbstractKorteweg-de Vries equations for slow body and torsional weakly nonlinear Alfvén waves in twisted magnetic flux tubes are derived. Slow body solitons appear as a narrowing of the tube in a low β plasma and widening of the tube, when β ≫ 1. Alfvén torsional solitons appear as a widening (β > 1) and narrowing (β < 1) of the tube, where there is a local increase of tube twisting. Two scenarios of nonlinear dissipation of strongly nonlinear waves in twisted flux tubes are proposed.


Author(s):  
Yurii I. Shokin ◽  
Alexander D. Rychkov ◽  
Gayaz S. Khakimzyanov ◽  
Leonid B. Chubarov

AbstractIn the present paper we study features and abilities of the combined TVD+SPH method relative to problems of numerical simulation of long waves runup on a shore within the shallow water theory. The results obtained by this method are compared to analytic solutions and to the data of laboratory experiments. Examples of successful application of the TVD+SPH method are presented for the case of study of runup processes for weakly nonlinear and strongly nonlinear waves, and also for


2014 ◽  
Vol 748 ◽  
pp. 768-788 ◽  
Author(s):  
Claudio Viotti ◽  
Francesco Carbone ◽  
Frédéric Dias

AbstractThe runup of long strongly nonlinear waves impinging on a vertical wall can exceed six times the far-field amplitude of the incoming waves. This outcome stems from a precursory evolution process in which the wave height undergoes strong amplification due to the combined action of nonlinear steepening and dispersion, resulting in the formation of nonlinearly dispersive wave trains, i.e. undular bores. This part of the problem is first analysed separately, with emphasis on the wave amplitude growth rate during the development of undular bores within an evolving large-scale background. The growth of the largest wave in the group is seen to reflect the asymptotic time scaling provided by nonlinear modulation theory rather closely, even in the case of fully nonlinear evolution and moderately slow modulations. In order to address the effect of such a dynamics on the subsequent wall runup, numerical simulations of evolving long-wave groups are then carried out in a computational wave tank delimited by vertical walls. Conditions for optimal runup efficiency are sought with respect to the main physical parameters characterizing the incident waves, namely the wavelength, the length of the propagation path and the initial amplitude. Extreme runup is found to be strongly correlated to the ratio between the available propagation time and the shallow-water nonlinear time scale. The problem is studied in the twofold mathematical framework of the fully nonlinear free-surface Euler equations and the strongly nonlinear Serre–Green–Naghdi model. The performance of the reduced model in providing accurate long-time predictions can therefore be assessed.


2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. D. Boardman ◽  
P. Egan ◽  
R. C. Mitchell-Thomas ◽  
Y. G. Rapoport ◽  
N. J. King

1994 ◽  
Vol 269 ◽  
pp. 247-264 ◽  
Author(s):  
A. Kribus ◽  
S. Leibovich

Weakly nonlinear descriptions of axisymmetric cnoidal and solitary waves in vortices recently have been shown to have strongly nonlinear counterparts. The linear stability of these strongly nonlinear waves to three-dimensional perturbations is studied, motivated by the problem of vortex breakdown in open flows. The basic axisymmetric flow varies both radially and axially, and the linear stability problem is therefore nonseparable. To regularize the generalization of a critical layer, viscosity is introduced in the perturbation problem. In the absence of the waves, the vortex flows are linearly stable. As the amplitude of a wave constituting the basic flow increases owing to variation in the level of swirl, stability is first lost to non-axisymmetric ‘bending’ modes. This instability occurs when the wave amplitude exceeds a critical value, provided that the Reynolds number is larger enough. The critical wave amplitudes for instability typically are large, but not large enough to create regions of closed streamlines. Examination of the most-amplified eigenvectors shows that the perturbations tend to be concentrated downstream of the maximum streamline displacement in the wave, in a position consistent with the observed three-dimensional perturbations in the interior of a bubble type of vortex breakdown.


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