Understanding the Perceptual Spectrum of Commercial Perfumes as a Basis for a Standard Sensory Wheel of Fragrances

Given the enormous number of perfumes available on the market, it is of interest to guide consumers in their purchase of a new fragrance. One approach is to project the multidimensional perceptual space of scents on a two-dimensional sensory map based on meaningful dimensions. One of the pioneering studies on this issue mapped 94 commercial perfumes according to two axes. Such an odor map is discussed here in detail by applying Principal Component Analysis to the numeric odor description of 176 fragrances. Quantitative odor profiles were obtained from Fragrantica’s website and three fragrances guides published by Haarmann & Reimer, Michael Edwards, and the French Society of Perfumers. A sensory map was obtained that reflected the similarities and dissimilarities between those odor descriptors most commonly used in perfumery. This representation was consistent with other related plots that have been previously reported. One dimension discriminated between fragrances targeted at men versus women. An orthogonal factor distinguished perfumes for daytime versus nighttime wear. These ratings, as well as seasonal preferences, could be estimated based on the main odor character attributes applied to describe the scent. The results provide a scientific basis for the comprehensive classification of commercial perfumes compiled by Edwards according to his famous “Fragrance Wheel”.

Komponen Flavor Volatil Tempe yang Dibungkus dengan Daun Pisang dan Plastik

The objective of the research was to identify volatile flavor compounds and odor description of tempeh wrapped with banana leaf and plastic fermented at different times. The research object was tempeh wrapped with banana leaf (TD) at 48 (TD1H), 72 (TD2H), and 96 hours (TD3H) fermented, and tempeh wrapped with plastic (TP) at 48 (TP1H), 72 (TP2H), and 96 hours (TP3H) fermented. Sample was extracted by SPME. GC-MS/O was used to identify volatile flavor compounds and odor description. The volatile flavor compound found in tempeh were group of ester, terpenoid, alcohol, aldehyde, ketone, furan and nitrogen containing compound. α-pinene was only found in tempeh wrapped with banana leaf, whereas piperazine, sec-butyl nitrite and (Z)-α-bisabolene were only found in tempeh wrapped with plastic. This revealed that there was difference flavor compound found in tempeh wrapped with banana leaf and tempeh wrapped with plastic. ABSTRAKPenelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui komponen penyusun flavor volatil dan aroma tempe yang dibungkus daun pisang dan plastik pada waktu fermentasi yang berbeda-beda. Tempe yang digunakan sebagai objek penelitian adalah tempe yang dibungkus dengan daun pisang (TD) dengan waktu fermentasi 48 jam (TD1H), 72 jam (TD2H), dan 96 jam (TD3H) dan tempe yang dibungkus plastik (TP) dengan waktu fermentasi 48 jam (TP1H), 72 jam (TP2H), dan 96 jam (TP3H). Ekstraksi sampel tempe menggunakan HS-SPME. Analisis flavor dan deskripsi odor dilakukan dengan menggunakan GC-MS/O. Senyawa flavor tempe yang diperoleh adalah senyawa-senyawa dari golongan ester, terpenoid, alkohol, aldehid, keton, furan dan senyawa-senyawa yang mengandung nitrogen. α-pinen hanya ditemukan pada tempe yang dibungkus daun pisang, sedangkan piperazin, sec-butil nitrit dan (Z)-α-bisabolen hanya ditemukan pada tempe yang dibungkus plastik saja. Hal ini berarti ada perbedaan komponen penyusun senyawa flavor pada tempe yang dibungkus daun pisang dan plastik.