Sensitivity of a one-line longshore shoreline change model to the mean wave direction

2021 ◽  
pp. 104025
Author(s):  
T. Chataigner ◽  
M.L. Yates ◽  
N. Le Dantec ◽  
M.D. Harley ◽  
K.D. Splinter ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Change Model ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
The Mean

Shoreline Change Model: A Review

2021 ◽  
pp. 1019-1031
Author(s):  
Sheetal Mutagi ◽  
Arunkumar Yadav ◽  
Chandrashekarayya G. Hiremath
Keyword(s):  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Change Model

A simple new shoreline change model

2004 ◽  
Vol 51 (7) ◽  
pp. 531-556 ◽  
Author(s):  
Jon K. Miller ◽  
Robert G. Dean
Keyword(s):  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Change Model

scholarly journals The scale of the central beach change processes in the west coast of Nha Trang bay

2020 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Vu Cong Huu ◽  
Dinh Van Uu
Keyword(s):  
Remote Sensing ◽  
Open Problem ◽  
West Coast ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Change Processes ◽  
Change Model ◽  
Remote Sensing Images ◽  
The West ◽  
Nha Trang Bay

The central beach in west coast of Nha Trang bay has experienced erosion in recent years. The determination of hydrodynamic regime and causes of this beach fluctuation is still an open problem and is concerned by scientists and managers. This study shows the causes and scales of the shoreline change processes based on the results of shoreline change model and the analysis of remote sensing images of shoreline location.

scholarly journals CURRENT CHARACTERISTICS IN THE PRESENCE OF NEAR-ORTHOGONAL WAVES

2012 ◽  
Vol 1 (33) ◽  
pp. 41
Author(s):  
Kian Yew Lim ◽  
Ole Secher Madsen ◽  
Hin Fatt Cheong
Keyword(s):  
Profile Analysis ◽  
Numerical Study ◽  
Flow Profile ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Mean Flow ◽  
Wave Basin ◽  
Current Interaction ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Current Flows ◽  
Wave Induced

An experimental study involving near-orthogonal wave-current interaction in a wave basin is reported in this paper. Due to previous shortcomings associated with 2D bottom configurations, i.e. occurrence of ripple-induced turning of flows close to the bed, the present experiments were conducted with the bottom covered by closely packed ceramic marbles (mean diameter of 1.25cm). Three types of flows were generated over this bottom: current-alone, wave-alone and combined wave-current flow. For current-alone and wave-current cases, the log-profile analysis was used to resolve the equivalent Nikuradse sand grain roughness, kn, while the energy dissipation method was used to estimate kn for wave-alone case. The results show that kn obtained for current- and wave-alone tests is roughly 2.2 times the diameter of the marbles. For orthogonal wave-current flows, the kn value, when used in combination with the Grant-Madsen (GM) model to reproduce the experimental apparent roughness, is found to be smaller than the measured current-alone and wave-alone kn. Similar under-prediction of bottom roughness is also observed when the GM model is compared with a numerical study, thus supporting the conjecture that when the current is weak compared to the waves, simple theoretical models like GM are not sufficiently sensitive to the angle of wave-current interaction. Experiments with currents at angles of 60° and 120° to the wave direction yield apparent roughness smaller than the 90° case, which is counter-intuitive since one would expect the mean flow to experience a stronger wave-induced turbulence when it is more aligned with the wave direction. This result indicates a possible contamination from wave-induced mass transport to the mean flow profile for non-orthogonal combined flow cases, and therefore highlights the need for other alternatives to the log-profile analysis when attempting to resolve kn from current velocity profiles from combined wave-current flows.

scholarly journals Wave run-up on embayed beaches. Study case: Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil

2017 ◽  
Vol 65 (2) ◽  
pp. 187-200 ◽  
Author(s):  
Guilherme Vieira da Silva ◽  
Paula Gomes da Silva ◽  
Rafael Sangoi Araujo ◽  
Antonio Henrique da Fontoura Klein ◽  
Elírio E. Toldo Jr.
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Model ◽  
Swash Zone ◽  
Southern Brazil ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Linear Processes ◽  
Similarity Parameter ◽  
Peak Period ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Run Up

ABSTRACT This paper presents a new approach for estimating run-up on embayed beaches based on a study of the microtidal coast of Itapocorói Bay, Southern Brazil using the surf similarity parameter and wave height at break location. The four step methodology involved: 1) direct wave measurement (34 days), wave run-up measurement (19 days at 7 points within the bay), measurement of bathymetry and beach topography in the entire bay; 2) tests on available formulae to calculate wave run-up; 3) use of the SWAN spectral wave model to simulate wave parameters at breaking at each wave run-up measurement point and; 4) development of a new formula/approach to assess wave run-up on embayed beaches (in both exposed and protected areas). During the experiments the significant wave height varied from 0.5 m to 3.01 m, the mean wave period from 2.79 s to 7.76 s (the peak period varied between 2.95 s and 17.18 s), the mean wave direction from 72.5° to 141.9° (the peak direction varied from 39.2° to 169.8°) and the beach slope (tan β) from 0.041 to 0.201. The proposed formula is in good agreement with measured data for different wave conditions and varying degrees of protection. The analysis demonstrates that although R² varies from 0.52 to 0.75, the wave run-up distribution over the measurements agreed well with the proposed model, as shown by quantile-quantile analysis (R²=0.98 to 0.99). The errors observed in individual cases may be related to errors of measurements, modeling and to non-linear processes in the swash zone, such as infragavity waves.

scholarly journals Shoreline Change with Groin Coastal Protection Structure at North Java Beach

2020 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
pp. 19-28
Author(s):  
Oki Setyandito ◽  
Aldo Christanto Purnama ◽  
Nur Yuwono ◽  
Juliastuti Juliastuti ◽  
Yureana Wijayanti
Keyword(s):  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Surf Zone ◽  
Shoreline Change ◽  
Research Area ◽  
Coastal Protection ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
West Java ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
North Beach ◽  
Topography Data

The research aimed to study the effect of groin application to erosion at the shoreline. The method utilized the bathymetry and topography data of north beach of Balongan, West Java. Modeling of the shoreline change due to groin installment used software called GENESIS. Based on analysis result, it is found that the significant wave direction comes from the southeast with significant wave height of 1,18 meters and surf zone width of 140 meters. It is concluded that at research area of north beach of west Java, I-groin with length of 70 meters and T head groin of 60 meters in long T-groin effectively overcome erosion and advance the coastline by 10786,62 m2 or in average 6,3 meters.

Comparative wave measurements at a wave energy site with a recently developed low-cost wave buoy (Spotter), ADCP and pressure loggers

2021 ◽  
Author(s):  
Orrin Lancaster ◽  
Remo Cossu ◽  
Sebastien Boulay ◽  
Scott Hunter ◽  
Tom E. Baldock
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Wave Energy ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Low Cost ◽  
Wave Period ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Mean Values ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Wave Measurements ◽  
The Mean

AbstractWave measurements from a new, low-cost, real-time wave buoy (Spotter) are investigated in a comparative study as part of a site characterization study at a wave energy candidate site at King Island, Tasmania, Australia. Measurements from the Sofar Ocean Spotter buoy are compared with concurrent measurements from a Teledyne RD Instrument (RDI) 1200 kHz Work Horse ADCP and two RBRsolo3 D wave16 pressure loggers. The comparison period between 8th August – 12th October 2019 provides both the shallowest and longest continuous published comparison undertaken with the Spotter buoy.Strong agreement was evident between the Spotter buoy and RDI ADCP of key wave parameters including the significant wave height, peak wave period, and mean wave direction, with the mean values of those parameters across the full deployment period agreeing within 3%. Surface wave spectra and directional spectra are also analyzed with good agreement observed over the majority of the frequency domain, although the Spotter buoy records approximately 17% less energy within a narrow frequency band near the peak frequency when compared to the RDI ADCP. Measurements derived from the pressure loggers routinely underestimated the significant wave height and overestimated the mean wave period over the deployment period. The comparison highlights the suitability of the Spotter buoy for low-cost wave resource studies, with accurate measurements of key parameters and spectra observed.

scholarly journals A Method to Estimate Reflection and Directional Spread Using Rotary Spectra from Accelerometers on Large Ice Floes

2017 ◽  
Vol 34 (5) ◽  
pp. 1125-1137 ◽  
Author(s):  
Graig Sutherland ◽  
Jean Rabault ◽  
Atle Jensen
Keyword(s):  
Sea Ice ◽  
Length Scale ◽  
Wave Spectra ◽  
Robust Method ◽  
Wave Direction ◽  
Wave Dissipation ◽  
Model Free ◽  
Directional Wave ◽  
The Mean ◽  
Ice Floes

AbstractThe directional wave spectra in sea ice are an important aspect of wave evolution and can provide insights into the dominant components of wave dissipation, that is, dissipation due to scattering or dissipation due to viscous processes under the ice. A robust method for the measurement of directional wave spectra parameters in sea ice from a three-axis accelerometer—or a heave, pitch, and roll sensor—is proposed. The method takes advantage of certain aspects of sea ice and makes use of rotary spectra techniques to provide model-free estimates for the mean wave direction, directional spread, and reflection coefficient. The method is ideally suited for large ice floes—that is, where the ice floe length scale is much greater than the wavelength—but a framework is provided to expand the parameter space where the method may be effective.

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