Chaos in small-amplitude surface gravity waves over slowly varying bathymetry

1991 ◽  
Vol 227 ◽  
pp. 35-46 ◽  
Author(s):  
Michael G. Brown ◽  
Frederick D. Tappert ◽  
Sekhar E. R. B. Sundaram

We consider the motion of small-amplitude surface gravity waves over variable bathymetry. Although the governing equations of motion are linear, for general bathymetric variations they are non-separable and cannot be solved exactly. For slowly varying bathymetry, however, approximate solutions based on geometric (ray) techniques may be used. The ray equations are a set of coupled nonlinear ordinary differential equations with Hamiltonian form. It is argued that for general bathymetric variations, solutions to these equations - ray trajectories - should exhibit chaotic motion, i.e. extreme sensitivity to initial and environmental conditions. These ideas are illustrated using a simple model of bottom bathymetry, h(x,y) = h0(1 + εcos (2πx/L) cos (2πy/L)). The expectation of chaotic ray trajectories is confirmed via the construction of Poincaré sections and the calculation of Lyapunov exponents. The complexity of chaotic geometric wavefields is illustrated by considering the temporal evolution of (mostly) chaotic wavecrests. Some practical implications of chaotic ray trajectories are discussed.

1979 ◽  
Vol 86 (3) ◽  
pp. 511-519 ◽  
Author(s):  
G. F. Fitz-Gerald ◽  
R. H. J. Grimshaw

The two-dimensional, irrotational, linear theory used in the investigation of the propagation of monochromatic surface gravity waves in a region of varying depth is considered. Uniqueness of the velocity potential is established for bottom profiles satisfying certain convexity conditions. These include the majority of profiles of physical interest.


2008 ◽  
Vol 32 (9) ◽  
pp. 1696-1710 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eduardo Godoy ◽  
Axel Osses ◽  
Jaime H. Ortega ◽  
Alvaro Valencia

1973 ◽  
Vol 29 (3) ◽  
pp. 94-105 ◽  
Author(s):  
Ken Sasaki ◽  
Takashi Murakami

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