A Quasi-3D Surf Zone Model

Author(s):  
Jung Lyul Lee ◽  
Hsiang Wang
Keyword(s):  
2008 ◽  
Author(s):  
Miguel Quintero ◽  
Faydra Schaffer

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 72 ◽  
Author(s):  
David R. Basco ◽  
Takao Yamashita

Breaking waves undergo a transition from oscillatory, irrotational motion, to highly rotational (turbulent) motion with some particle translation. On plane or monotonically decreasing beach profiles, this physically takes place in such a way that the mean water level remains essentially constant within the transition region. Further shoreward a rapid set-up takes place within the inner, bore-like region. The new surf zone model of Svendsen (1984) begins at this transition point and the new wave there contains a trapped volume of water within the surface roller moving with the wave speed. This paper describes a simple model over the transition zone designed to match the Svendsen (1984) model at the end of the transition region. It uses a simple, linear growth model for the surface roller area development and semi-empirical model for the variation of the wave shape factor. Breaking wave type can vary from spilling through plunging as given by a surf similarity parameter. The model calculates the wave height decrease and width of the transition region for all breaker types on plane or monotonically depth decreasing beaches.


2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (4) ◽  
pp. 353
Author(s):  
Florent Birrien ◽  
Tom Baldock

An equilibrium beach profile model is developed and coupled with a parametric hydrodynamic model to provide feedback between the evolving morphology and the hydrodynamics. The model is compared to laboratory beach profiles evolving toward equilibrium conditions under constant forcing. The equilibrium model follows the classical approach but uses the bulk sediment transport as the governing model parameter. This approach is coupled with empirically derived and normalised sediment transport functions and a parametric surf zone wave transformation model. The dissipation predicted by the surf zone model controls the cross-shore position of the maxima in the sediment transport functions and hence the cross-shore evolution of the beach profile. Realistic beach profile shapes are generated for both erosive (barred) and accretive (bermed) beach profiles, and predictions of bar and berm position are satisfactory. With more complex normalised sediment transport functions, the model can be applied to conditions with a cyclical wave climate. However, the model concept is better associated with erosive wave conditions and further work is required to improve the link between the modelled dissipation and local transport for accretive conditions.


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