Mass Transport in Shallow Water Waves

1978 ◽  
Vol 104 (2) ◽  
pp. 215-225
Author(s):  
Michael de St. Q. Isaacson
Keyword(s):  
Mass Transport ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves

scholarly journals Mass Transport Velocity in Shallow-Water Waves Reflected in a Rotating Ocean with a Coastal Boundary

2007 ◽  
Vol 37 (10) ◽  
pp. 2429-2445 ◽  
Author(s):  
Frode Hoydalsvik
Keyword(s):  
Mass Transport ◽  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Traditional Approach ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Weakly Nonlinear ◽  
Transport Velocity ◽  
Uniform Solution ◽  
Mass Transport Velocity ◽  
Sloping Bottom

Abstract The mass transport velocity in shallow-water waves reflected at right angles from an infinite and straight coast is studied theoretically in a Lagrangian reference frame. The waves are weakly nonlinear and monochromatic, and propagate in a homogenous, viscous, and rotating ocean. Unlike the traditional approach where the domain is divided into thin boundary layers and a core region, the uniform solution is obtained here without constraints on the thickness of the bottom wave boundary layer. It is shown that the mass transport velocity is not only sensitive to topography, but depends heavily on the interplay between the vertical length scales. Similarities and differences between the cases of a constant depth, a linearly sloping bottom, and a wavy and linearly sloping bottom are discussed. The mass transport velocity can be divided into two main categories—that induced by waves with a frequency close to the inertial frequency, and that induced by waves with a much larger frequency. For waves significantly affected by rotation to first order, the cross-shore mass transport velocity is very small relative to the alongshore mass transport velocity, and the direction of the mass transport velocity is reversed relative to that in waves of much higher frequencies.

RESPONSE CHARACTERISTICS OF GRAVEL BEACH FROM THE VIEWPOINT OF SHALLOW WATER WAVES AND MOVEMENT OF GRAVELS

2020 ◽  
Vol 76 (2) ◽  
pp. I_565-I_570
Author(s):  
Shin-ichi AOKI ◽  
Tomoki HAMANO ◽  
Taishi NAKAYAMA ◽  
Eiichi OKETANI ◽  
Takahiro HIRAMATSU ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Response Characteristics ◽  
Gravel Beach

scholarly journals Diverse novel analytical and semi-analytical wave solutions of the generalized (2+1)-dimensional shallow water waves model

AIP Advances ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 11 (1) ◽  
pp. 015223
Author(s):  
Yuming Chu ◽  
Mostafa M. A. Khater ◽  
Y. S. Hamed
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Wave Solutions

scholarly journals Active-subspace analysis of exceedance probability for shallow-water waves

2021 ◽  
Vol 126 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Kenan Šehić ◽  
Henrik Bredmose ◽  
John D. Sørensen ◽  
Mirza Karamehmedović
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Exceedance Probability ◽  
Subspace Analysis ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Active Subspace

scholarly journals Shallow water waves in a rotating rectangular basin

2000 ◽  
Vol 24 (10) ◽  
pp. 649-661 ◽  
Author(s):  
Mohamed Atef Helal
Keyword(s):  
Shallow Water ◽  
Water Waves ◽  
Equations Of Motion ◽  
System Of Nonlinear Equations ◽  
System Of Equations ◽  
Order Of Approximation ◽  
Shallow Water Waves ◽  
Nonlinear System Of Equations ◽  
Rectangular Basin ◽  
Shallow Water Approximation

This paper is mainly concerned with the motion of an incompressible fluid in a slowly rotating rectangular basin. The equations of motion of such a problem with its boundary conditions are reduced to a system of nonlinear equations, which is to be solved by applying the shallow water approximation theory. Each unknown of the problem is expanded asymptotically in terms of the small parameterϵwhich generally depends on some intrinsic quantities of the problem of study. For each order of approximation, the nonlinear system of equations is presented successively. It is worthy to note that such a study has useful applications in the oceanography.

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