An Euler Solver for Nonlinear Water Waves Simulation Using a Modified Staggered Grid and Gaussian Quadrature Approach

Author(s):  
Q. J. Chen ◽  
Q. Fan ◽  
S. H. Ko ◽  
H. Huang ◽  
G. Allen ◽  
...  
PAMM ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Marten Hollm ◽  
Leo Dostal ◽  
Hendrik Fischer ◽  
Robert Seifried

Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2005 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 219-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nan-Jing Wu ◽  
Ting-Kuei Tsay ◽  
D. L. Young

Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin

This introduction to the issue provides a review of some recent developments in the study of water waves. The content and contributions of the papers that make up this Theme Issue are also discussed.


Author(s):  
Delia Ionescu-Kruse

This paper is a survey of the short-wavelength stability method for rotating flows. Additional complications such as stratification in the flow or the presence of non-conservative body forces are considered too. This method is applied to the specific study of some exact geophysical flows. For Gerstner-like geophysical flows one can identify perturbations in certain directions as a source of instabilities with an exponentially growing amplitude, the growth rate of the instabilities depending on the steepness of the travelling wave profile. On the other hand, for certain physically realistic velocity profiles, steady flows moving only in the azimuthal direction, with no variation in this direction, are locally stable to the short-wavelength perturbations. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2002 ◽  
Vol 462 ◽  
pp. 1-30 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. A. MADSEN ◽  
H. B. BINGHAM ◽  
HUA LIU

A new method valid for highly dispersive and highly nonlinear water waves is presented. It combines a time-stepping of the exact surface boundary conditions with an approximate series expansion solution to the Laplace equation in the interior domain. The starting point is an exact solution to the Laplace equation given in terms of infinite series expansions from an arbitrary z-level. We replace the infinite series operators by finite series (Boussinesq-type) approximations involving up to fifth-derivative operators. The finite series are manipulated to incorporate Padé approximants providing the highest possible accuracy for a given number of terms. As a result, linear and nonlinear wave characteristics become very accurate up to wavenumbers as high as kh = 40, while the vertical variation of the velocity field becomes applicable for kh up to 12. These results represent a major improvement over existing Boussinesq-type formulations in the literature. A numerical model is developed in a single horizontal dimension and it is used to study phenomena such as solitary waves and their impact on vertical walls, modulational instability in deep water involving recurrence or frequency downshift, and shoaling of regular waves up to breaking in shallow water.


Author(s):  
Motohiko Umeyama

To investigate changes in the instability of Stokes waves prior to wave breaking in shallow water, pressure data were recorded vertically over the entire water depth, except in the near-surface layer (from 0 cm to −3 cm), in a recirculating channel. In addition, we checked the pressure asymmetry under several conditions. The phase-averaged dynamic-pressure values for the wave–current motion appear to increase compared with those for the wave-alone motion; however, they scatter in the experimental range. The measured vertical distributions of the dynamic pressure were plotted over one wave cycle and compared to the corresponding predictions on the basis of third-order Stokes wave theory. The dynamic-pressure pattern was not the same during the acceleration and deceleration periods. Spatially, the dynamic pressure varies according to the faces of the wave, i.e. the pressure on the front face is lower than that on the rear face. The direction of wave propagation with respect to the current directly influences the essential features of the resulting dynamic pressure. The results demonstrate that interactions between travelling waves and a current lead more quickly to asymmetry. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


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