scholarly journals Study on the Interaction of Nonlinear Water Waves considering Random Seas

PAMM ◽  
2021 ◽  
Vol 20 (1) ◽  
Author(s):  
Marten Hollm ◽  
Leo Dostal ◽  
Hendrik Fischer ◽  
Robert Seifried
2005 ◽  
Vol 128 (1) ◽  
pp. 11-16 ◽  
Author(s):  
Francesco Fedele

In this paper, the occurrence of extreme events due to the four-wave resonance interaction in weakly nonlinear water waves is investigated. The starting point is the Zakharov equation, which governs the dynamics of the spectral components of the surface displacement. It is proven that the optimal spectral components giving an extreme crest are solutions of a well-defined constrained optimization problem. A new analytical expression for the probability of exceedance of the wave crest is then proposed for the prediction of freak wave events.


Author(s):  
Didier Clamond

Steady two-dimensional surface capillary–gravity waves in irrotational motion are considered on constant depth. By exploiting the holomorphic properties in the physical plane and introducing some transformations of the boundary conditions at the free surface, new exact relations and equations for the free surface only are derived. In particular, a physical plane counterpart of the Babenko equation is obtained. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2005 ◽  
Vol 50 (2) ◽  
pp. 219-234 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nan-Jing Wu ◽  
Ting-Kuei Tsay ◽  
D. L. Young

Author(s):  
Adrian Constantin

This introduction to the issue provides a review of some recent developments in the study of water waves. The content and contributions of the papers that make up this Theme Issue are also discussed.


Author(s):  
Delia Ionescu-Kruse

This paper is a survey of the short-wavelength stability method for rotating flows. Additional complications such as stratification in the flow or the presence of non-conservative body forces are considered too. This method is applied to the specific study of some exact geophysical flows. For Gerstner-like geophysical flows one can identify perturbations in certain directions as a source of instabilities with an exponentially growing amplitude, the growth rate of the instabilities depending on the steepness of the travelling wave profile. On the other hand, for certain physically realistic velocity profiles, steady flows moving only in the azimuthal direction, with no variation in this direction, are locally stable to the short-wavelength perturbations. This article is part of the theme issue ‘Nonlinear water waves’.


2002 ◽  
Vol 462 ◽  
pp. 1-30 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. A. MADSEN ◽  
H. B. BINGHAM ◽  
HUA LIU

A new method valid for highly dispersive and highly nonlinear water waves is presented. It combines a time-stepping of the exact surface boundary conditions with an approximate series expansion solution to the Laplace equation in the interior domain. The starting point is an exact solution to the Laplace equation given in terms of infinite series expansions from an arbitrary z-level. We replace the infinite series operators by finite series (Boussinesq-type) approximations involving up to fifth-derivative operators. The finite series are manipulated to incorporate Padé approximants providing the highest possible accuracy for a given number of terms. As a result, linear and nonlinear wave characteristics become very accurate up to wavenumbers as high as kh = 40, while the vertical variation of the velocity field becomes applicable for kh up to 12. These results represent a major improvement over existing Boussinesq-type formulations in the literature. A numerical model is developed in a single horizontal dimension and it is used to study phenomena such as solitary waves and their impact on vertical walls, modulational instability in deep water involving recurrence or frequency downshift, and shoaling of regular waves up to breaking in shallow water.


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