Sediment Suspension Due to Breaking Waves

1982 ◽  
Vol 25 (1) ◽  
pp. 163-176 ◽  
Author(s):  
Tomoya Shibayama ◽  
Kiyoshi Horikawa
2017 ◽  
Vol 158 ◽  
pp. 57-71 ◽  
Author(s):  
Zixuan Yang ◽  
Xin-Hua Lu ◽  
Xin Guo ◽  
Yi Liu ◽  
Lian Shen

Author(s):  
Ayumi Saruwatari ◽  
Junichi Otsuka ◽  
Yasunori Watanabe

Three-dimensional vortex structures involving obliquely descending eddies (ODE), produced by depth-induced breaking-waves, has been proved to be associated with local sediment suspension in the surf zone (Zhou et al., 2017); vertical velocity fluctuations around the ODEs induces sediment suspension near the bed. Otsuka et al. (2017) explained the mechanical contributions of the ODEs to enhance local sediment suspension under the breaking waves and modeled the vortex-induced suspension to predict the profile of the equilibrium sediment concentration in the surf zone. In order to predict local behaviors of sediment, however, sediment-turbulence interactions in the transitional turbulence under breaking waves need to be understood. The interaction may be described in terms of Schmidt number (Sc). Sc has been empirically determined for trivial steady flows such as open channel or pipe flows. In the surf zone where organized flows evolve into a turbulent bore, the interaction may vary with the transitional feature of turbulence during a wave-breaking process, and thus Sc may be variable in time and space. No appropriate Sc model has been proposed for the surf zone flow. A parametric study on the sediment motion with respect to the variation of Sc is required for better prediction of sediment transport in the surf zone. In this study, contributions of the sediment advection and diffusion in the vortex structure to the concentration are computationally investigated. Effects of Sc to the sediment suspension and diffusion process will be also discussed in this work.


2020 ◽  
pp. 34-42
Author(s):  
Thibault Chastel ◽  
Kevin Botten ◽  
Nathalie Durand ◽  
Nicole Goutal

Seagrass meadows are essential for protection of coastal erosion by damping wave and stabilizing the seabed. Seagrass are considered as a source of water resistance which modifies strongly the wave dynamics. As a part of EDF R & D seagrass restoration project in the Berre lagoon, we quantify the wave attenuation due to artificial vegetation distributed in a flume. Experiments have been conducted at Saint-Venant Hydraulics Laboratory wave flume (Chatou, France). We measure the wave damping with 13 resistive waves gauges along a distance L = 22.5 m for the “low” density and L = 12.15 m for the “high” density of vegetation mimics. A JONSWAP spectrum is used for the generation of irregular waves with significant wave height Hs ranging from 0.10 to 0.23 m and peak period Tp ranging from 1 to 3 s. Artificial vegetation is a model of Posidonia oceanica seagrass species represented by slightly flexible polypropylene shoots with 8 artificial leaves of 0.28 and 0.16 m height. Different hydrodynamics conditions (Hs, Tp, water depth hw) and geometrical parameters (submergence ratio α, shoot density N) have been tested to see their influence on wave attenuation. For a high submergence ratio (typically 0.7), the wave attenuation can reach 67% of the incident wave height whereas for a low submergence ratio (< 0.2) the wave attenuation is negligible. From each experiment, a bulk drag coefficient has been extracted following the energy dissipation model for irregular non-breaking waves developed by Mendez and Losada (2004). This model, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the species meadow is essentially due to the drag force, takes into account both wave and vegetation parameter. Finally, we found an empirical relationship for Cd depending on 2 dimensionless parameters: the Reynolds and Keulegan-Carpenter numbers. These relationships are compared with other similar studies.


Author(s):  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Sergey Kuznetsov ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Yana Saprykina ◽  
Boris Divinskiy ◽  
...  

On the base of experimental data it was revealed that type of wave breaking depends on wave asymmetry against the vertical axis at wave breaking point. The asymmetry of waves is defined by spectral structure of waves: by the ratio between amplitudes of first and second nonlinear harmonics and by phase shift between them. The relative position of nonlinear harmonics is defined by a stage of nonlinear wave transformation and the direction of energy transfer between the first and second harmonics. The value of amplitude of the second nonlinear harmonic in comparing with first harmonic is significantly more in waves, breaking by spilling type, than in waves breaking by plunging type. The waves, breaking by plunging type, have the crest of second harmonic shifted forward to one of the first harmonic, so the waves have "saw-tooth" shape asymmetrical to vertical axis. In the waves, breaking by spilling type, the crests of harmonic coincides and these waves are symmetric against the vertical axis. It was found that limit height of breaking waves in empirical criteria depends on type of wave breaking, spectral peak period and a relation between wave energy of main and second nonlinear wave harmonics. It also depends on surf similarity parameter defining conditions of nonlinear wave transformations above inclined bottom.


2004 ◽  
Author(s):  
David T. Walker ◽  
Ales Alajbegovic ◽  
Jason D. Hunt

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