Observation of strongly non-Gaussian statistics for random sea surface gravity waves in wave flume experiments

2004 ◽  
Vol 70 (6) ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Onorato ◽  
A. R. Osborne ◽  
M. Serio ◽  
L. Cavaleri ◽  
C. Brandini ◽  
...  
Ports 2019 ◽  
2019 ◽  
Author(s):  
Matheus de Paula Vieira ◽  
Pedro Veras Guimarães

2020 ◽  
Vol 91 (4) ◽  
pp. 2268-2277 ◽  
Author(s):  
Yoshihiro Ito ◽  
Spahr C. Webb ◽  
Yoshihiro Kaneko ◽  
Laura M. Wallace ◽  
Ryota Hino

Abstract Infragravity waves on the sea surface near coastlines are occasionally excited by static displacement caused by large local earthquakes and recorded as tsunamis. However, tsunamis induced by ground motions from seismic waves are rarely observed, especially far from earthquake focal areas. We investigated seafloor pressure variations in the infragravity band at the Hikurangi subduction zone following the M 7.8 Kaikōura and M 7.1 Te Araroa earthquakes. Anomalous infragravity waves were observed at 0.2–20 mHz at sites overlying a low-velocity accretionary wedge offshore of the east coast of New Zealand’s North Island accompanying the Rayleigh-wave arrivals. The maximum amplitude of these ultra-low-frequency waves was similar to the tsunami that propagated from the earthquake focal area hours later. The amplitude of the pressure signal from these waves observed offshore varied inversely with water depth, suggesting that sea surface gravity waves were excited by Rayleigh or Love waves amplified within the accretionary wedge.


1994 ◽  
Vol 45 (6) ◽  
pp. 993
Author(s):  
VA Kalmykov

Phase velocity and dispersion relations of surface gravity waves on the sea have been modelled by two numerical methods and the results compared with previous experimental studies. Wave nonlinearities cause deviations from linear wave relations and these deviations are seen on the sea surface in the form of sharply crested waves. The effects are amplified if wave steepness increases or wave spectra become narrower. When the effects of finite depth of water are included in the calculations, the deviations from linearity are found to increase significantly.


2002 ◽  
Vol 89 (14) ◽  
Author(s):  
M. Onorato ◽  
A. R. Osborne ◽  
M. Serio ◽  
D. Resio ◽  
A. Pushkarev ◽  
...  

2008 ◽  
Vol 32 (9) ◽  
pp. 1696-1710 ◽  
Author(s):  
Eduardo Godoy ◽  
Axel Osses ◽  
Jaime H. Ortega ◽  
Alvaro Valencia

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