scholarly journals On the Effects of Non-Gaussian Wave-Slope Distribution on the Failure Probability of an Armour block of Rubble Mound Breakwater

2021 ◽  
Vol 8 (3) ◽  
pp. 165-179
Author(s):  
Yong Jun Cho

This study examined the effect of non-Gaussian wave slope distribution on the failure probability of an armoring rock of rubble mound breakwater using numerical simulation. Numerical simulation was carried out using the Van der Meer equation and Level III reliability design method based on the Monte Carlo simulation. In doing so, modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution and situ wave height data collected at Ulleungdo from January 1, 1979-December 31, 2019 were used. Tri-modal Gaissuian wave slope distribution was also used, which showed good agreements with situ wave data collected at Mangbang from April 26, 2017, to April 20, 2018. The probability coefficients of tri-modal Gaussian distribution were estimated using Matlab-based statistics and machine learning toolbox, MLE [Maximum Likelihood Estimates]. In the numerical simulation, the intrinsic limitations of Gaussian distribution were revealed, such as imposing a non-negligible probability mass even in the negative wave slope, under-shooting in longer and shorter waves, and over-shooting in mid-scale waves. In the case of failure probability of an armoring rock, Gaussian distribution was shown to give underestimated failure probability. The extent of underestimation was more considerable at Mangbang, where a tidal terrace of lower depth and gently varying slope was developed than at Ulleungdo. These differences were triggered by the presence of probability plateau formed in wave slope distribution whenever infra-gravity waves appear in random wave packet due to the resonant wave-wave interaction. Therefore, it can be easily conceivable that probability plateau has a significant effect on the armoring rock failure probability. Therefore, PIANC's recommendation that wave slope follows Gaussian distribution needs to be amended. Moreover, the reliability-based design of breakwater should be implemented based on tri-modal Gaussian wave slope distribution, which can accurately reproduce probability plateau.

2021 ◽  
Vol 9 (2) ◽  
pp. 223
Author(s):  
Yong Jun Cho

In this study, a Level III reliability design of an armor block of rubble mound breakwater was developed using the optimized probabilistic wave height model for the Korean marine environment and Van der Meer equation. To demonstrate what distinguishes this study from the others, numerical simulation was first carried out, assuming that wave slope follows Gaussian distribution recommended by PIANC. Numerical results showed that Gaussian wave slope distribution overpredicted the failure probability of armor block, longer and shorter waves, and on the contrary, underpredicted waves of the medium period. After noting the limitations of Gaussian distribution, some efforts were made to develop an alternative for Gaussian distribution. As a result, non-Gaussian wave slope distribution was analytically derived from the joint distribution of wave amplitude and period by Longuet–Higgins using the random variables transformation technique. Numerical results showed that non-Gaussian distribution could effectively address the limitations of Gaussian distribution due to its capability to account for the nonlinear resonant wave–wave interaction and its effects on the wave slope distribution that significantly influences the armor block’s stability. Therefore, the non-Gaussian wave slope distribution presented in this study could play an indispensable role in addressing controversial issues such as whether or not enormous armor blocks like a Tetrapod of 100 t frequently mentioned in developing countermeasures against rough seas due to climate change is too conservatively designed.


2021 ◽  
Vol 35 (2) ◽  
pp. 176-185
Author(s):  
Jing-yuan Li ◽  
Qing-he Zhang ◽  
Yong-jun Lu

Author(s):  
Yasuhito Noshi ◽  
Takaaki Uda ◽  
Akio Kobayashi

The mechanism by which the mouth of a small river is stably fixed in the wave-shelter zone behind an offshore reef composed of natural rocks was studied, taking a small river flowing into the Moriya coast together with two other small rivers as examples. The beach topography around the river mouth and the shape of the stream behind the reef were measured on this coast, and the wave height distribution around the reef was calculated using the angular spreading method, and the reason why the river mouth is stably fixed at this location was considered. Furthermore, the numerical simulation of beach changes using the BG model when an offshore breakwater was installed as a model of a natural reef was carried out to study the longshore change in the berm height. The primary cause for the fixation of a river mouth behind a reef was found to be the decrease in wave height behind the reef, which in turn decreases in the berm height.


2008 ◽  
Vol 93 (11) ◽  
pp. 4422-4425 ◽  
Author(s):  
Anastasios Papadimitriou ◽  
Soula Pantsiotou ◽  
Konstandinos Douros ◽  
Dimitrios T. Papadimitriou ◽  
Polyxeni Nicolaidou ◽  
...  

2001 ◽  
Vol 127 (9) ◽  
pp. 990-995 ◽  
Author(s):  
Massimiliano Gioffrè ◽  
Vittorio Gusella ◽  
Mircea Grigoriu

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