Weakly Non-Gaussian Model of Wave Height Distribution for Nonlinear Random Waves

1997 ◽  
Author(s):  
Nobuhito Mori ◽  
Takashi Yasuda
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Gaussian Model ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Nonlinear Random Waves ◽  
Non Gaussian

scholarly journals ENERGY LOSS AND SET-UP DUE TO BREAKING OF RANDOM WAVES

1978 ◽  
Vol 1 (16) ◽  
pp. 32 ◽  
Author(s):  
J.A. Battjes ◽  
J.P.F.M. Janssen
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Dissipation Rate ◽  
Breaking Waves ◽  
Breaking Wave ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Dissipation Of Energy ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Set Up ◽  
Local Depth

A description is given of a model developed for the prediction of the dissipation of energy in random waves breaking on a beach. The dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height, while the probability of occurrence of breaking waves is estimated on the basis of a wave height distribution with an upper cut-off which in shallow water is determined mainly by the local depth. A comparison with measurements of wave height decay and set-up, on a plane beach and on a beach with a bar-trough profile, indicates that the model is capable of predicting qualitatively and quantitatively all the main features of the data.

scholarly journals Effects of Swell on Wave Height Distribution of Energy-Conserved Bimodal Seas

2019 ◽  
Vol 7 (3) ◽  
pp. 79 ◽  
Author(s):  
Stephen Orimoloye ◽  
Harshinie Karunarathna ◽  
Dominic Reeve
Keyword(s):  
Time Series ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Energy Content ◽  
Computational Study ◽  
Navier Stokes ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Random Waves ◽  
Sea State ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Maker

An understanding of the wave height distribution of a sea state is important in forecasting extreme wave height and lifetime fatigue predictions of marine structures. In bimodal seas, swell can be present at different percentages and different frequencies while the energy content of the sea state remains unaltered. This computational study investigates how the wave height distribution is affected by different swell percentages and long swell periods in an energy-conserved bimodal sea both near a wave maker and in shallow water. A formulated energy-conserved bimodal spectrum was created from unimodal sea states and converted into random waves time series using the Inverse Fast Fourier Transform (IFFT). The resulting time series was used to drive a Reynolds-Averaged Navier Stokes computational (RANS) model. Wave height values were then extracted from the model results (both away near and near the structure) using down-crossing analysis to inspect the non-linearity imposed by wave-wave interactions and through transformations as they propagate into shallow waters near the structure. It is concluded that the kurtosis and skewness of the wave height distribution very inversely with the swell percentage and peak periods. Non-linearities are greater in the unimodal seas compared to the bimodal seas with the same energy content. Also, non-linearities are greater structure side than at wave maker and are more dependent on the phases of the component waves at different frequencies.

scholarly journals APPLICATIONS ON NONLINEAR WAVE COMBINATION

1986 ◽  
Vol 1 (20) ◽  
pp. 26
Author(s):  
J.T. Juang
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Taiwan Strait ◽  
Western Coast ◽  
Linear Wave ◽  
Wave System ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Local Wave ◽  
Source Wave ◽  
The Waves

Due to the special bathymetry in Taiwan Strait, the waves off the western coast of Taiwan are considered to be composed of two-source wave system. One propagates from the central part of the Strait named main wave, and the other is generated by the local wind known as local wave which occurs along the shore. After the combination and the transformation procedure from these two-nonlinear-source wave system, the wave height distribution in Taiwan Strait should be modified. A comparison of the wave height distributions based on the present proposed method with the field data indicates that the present method yields a better result than other theorems. Furthermore, the result of application of two non-linear wave theorem to wave prediction are also presented.

scholarly journals Links of the significant wave height distribution in the Mediterranean sea with the Northern Hemisphere teleconnection patterns

2008 ◽  
Vol 17 ◽  
pp. 13-18 ◽  
Author(s):  
P. Lionello ◽  
M. B. Galati
Keyword(s):  
Mediterranean Sea ◽  
Northern Hemisphere ◽  
Wave Height ◽  
Significant Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
East Atlantic ◽  
Significant Wave ◽  
Teleconnection Patterns ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
The Mediterranean

Abstract. This study analyzes the link between the SWH (Significant Wave Height) distribution in the Mediterranean Sea during the second half of the 20th century and the Northern Hemisphere SLP (Sea Level Pressure) teleconnection patterns. The SWH distribution is computed using the WAM (WAve Model) forced by the surface wind fields provided by the ERA-40 reanalysis for the period 1958–2001. The time series of mid-latitude teleconnection patterns are downloaded from the NOAA web site. This study shows that several mid-latitude patterns are linked to the SWH field in the Mediterranean, especially in its western part during the cold season: East Atlantic Pattern (EA), Scandinavian Pattern (SCA), North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO), East Atlantic/West Russia Pattern (EA/WR) and East Pacific/ North Pacific Pattern (EP/NP). Though the East Atlantic pattern exerts the largest influence, it is not sufficient to characterize the dominant variability. NAO, though relevant, has an effect smaller than EA and comparable to other patterns. Some link results from possibly spurious structures. Patterns which have a very different global structure are associated to similar spatial features of the wave variability in the Mediterranean Sea. These two problems are, admittedly, shortcomings of this analysis, which shows the complexity of the response of the Mediterranean SWH to global scale SLP teleconnection patterns.

Transformation of wave height distribution

1983 ◽  
Vol 88 (C10) ◽  
pp. 5925 ◽  
Author(s):  
Edward B. Thornton ◽  
R. T. Guza
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Wave Height Distribution

Experimental study on the wave height distribution of wind-induced waves in the growth stage under finite water depth

2019 ◽  
Vol 19 (8) ◽  
pp. 2270-2279
Author(s):  
Ang Gao ◽  
Shiqiang Wu ◽  
Li Chen ◽  
Sien Liu ◽  
Zhun Xu ◽  
...  
Keyword(s):  
Wave Height ◽  
Water Depth ◽  
Growth Stage ◽  
Wind Wave ◽  
Model Parameters ◽  
Height Distribution ◽  
Distribution Models ◽  
Wave Height Distribution ◽  
Comparison Results ◽  
Optimized Model

Abstract With the method of a wind tank experiment, the real scenario of lakes with horizontal and vertical circulation of wind-induced flows is considered, and the features of wind wave height and its distribution in the different conditions of wind blowing distance, wind speed and water depth are studied systematically. Afterwards, comparison of the wave height distributions derived directly from experiment and the typical wave height distribution models show that some defects exist in typical wave height distribution models when describing wind wave height distribution in the wave growth stage. On this basis, we propose a new distribution model which is suitable for the description of wind wave height during the growth stage, and the model parameters are acquired with the programming solution method. Finally, the model is further optimized by relating B to σa, and Hs to σa. Comparison results of the optimized model and the typical ones show that the optimized model has advantages in calculation accuracy and convenience of use.

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