scholarly journals Re-Dressing Race and Gender: The Performance and Politics of Eldridge Cleaver’s Pants

2018 ◽  
Vol 1 (1) ◽  
pp. 1-37
Author(s):  
Art Blake

In Paris in 1975 Eldridge Cleaver, exiled revolutionary African American activist, former Minister of Information for the Black Panther Party, appeared in photographs and newspaper articles wearing, and discussing, pants he had designed. The major innovation in Cleaver’s pants was a redesigned crotch: instead of the usual button and zip front opening, his pants featured a soft panel with a protuberant fabric appendage into which Cleaver intended the wearer’s penis to fit. Why did Cleaver channel his intelligence and creativity into menswear at that moment? How did Cleaver’s penis-positive pants design resonate in 1975 with black politics and gender politics? And why am I, a queer transgendered man, writing about these pants? Through this article I hope to contribute to a discussion in fashion studies about the materiality of bodies and the role of self-fashioning, particularly for those living in resistance to dominant codes of gender and race. I situate and analyze Cleaver’s pants in a broad context of the postwar politics of dressing and redressing race and gender in the United States, with references to a longer American history, as well as to a global context of clothing in a postcolonial era. The pants, in both their design and in the act of being worn, materialize acts of raced and gendered insurrection, but in a web of historical power relations that privilege whiteness and cisgender masculinity.

Author(s):  
Natasha N Johnson

This article focuses on equitable leadership and its intersection with related yet distinct concepts salient to social justice pertinent to women and minorities in educational leadership. This piece is rooted and framed within the context of the United States of America, and the major concepts include identity, equity, and intersectionality—specific to the race-gender dyad—manifested within the realm of educational leadership. The objective is to examine theory and research in this area and to discuss the role they played in this study of the cultures of four Black women, all senior-level leaders within the realm of K-20 education in the United States. This work employed the tenets of hermeneutic phenomenology, focusing on the intersecting factors—race and gender, specifically—that impact these women’s ability and capability to perform within the educational sector. The utilization of in-depth, timed, semi-structured interviews allowed participants to reflect upon their experiences and perceptions as Black women who have navigated and continue to successfully navigate the highest levels of the educational leadership sphere. Contributors’ recounted stories of navigation within spaces in which they are underrepresented revealed the need for more research specific to the intricacies of Black women’s leadership journeys in the context of the United States.


Author(s):  
Ryan F. Lei ◽  
Rachel A. Leshin ◽  
Kelsey Moty ◽  
Emily Foster-Hanson ◽  
Marjorie Rhodes

Author(s):  
John H. Flores

This chapter compares liberal and traditionalist understandings of empire, race, and gender to explain why liberals often declined U.S. citizenship and why traditionalists became more amenable to U.S. naturalization. Mexican liberals defined themselves as anti-imperialist mestizos and, in Chicago, they joined with Puerto Ricans and Nicaraguans to protest U.S. imperialism. Most liberals rebuffed U.S. naturalization, in part, because they were put off by U.S. imperialism, racism, and gender norms. By contrast, traditionalists celebrated the United States for granting them religious freedom, and challenged the liberals by exalting all that was Catholic and thus Spanish and white in Mexican culture. In so doing, traditionalists became more open to a U.S. understanding of whiteness and citizenship, and many traditionalists decided they could create new lives for themselves in the United States.


Reckoning ◽  
2020 ◽  
pp. 160-199
Author(s):  
Candis Callison ◽  
Mary Lynn Young

Chapter 6 draws on ethnographic fieldwork and interviews with Indigenous journalists in Canada and the United States who have been addressing colonialism, race, and gender in their journalism all along. Indigenous journalists articulate the challenges of working in and among mainstream media that has largely erased and misrepresented Indigenous voices, communities, and concerns on a range of issues. They undertake a differentiated set of approaches that draw on journalism ideals and get at deeper problems structurally such that transformation within journalism as profession, identity, and method might be possible. As a result, Indigenous journalists are using digital media to transform journalism methods, decolonizing journalism ideals like “fairness and balance” by drawing from Indigenous knowledge, histories, and relational frameworks. This chapter provides a bookend to Chapter 1 by offering a pathway into discussing not only new bases for ethical consideration but also provides examples of some of the multiple journalisms available through digital media.


2020 ◽  
Vol 7 (1) ◽  
pp. 3-23 ◽  
Author(s):  
Cesare Silla

This article aims to make a specific contribution to the field of fashion studies through a discussion of the role of marketing in the emergence of consumer capitalism in the United States between 1880 and 1930. Specifically, the orientation of American business towards marketing and its impact on the growth of the ready-to-wear industry after the First World War are presented and discussed. This new orientation is attributed to the emergence of a new ‘consumer culture’ related to the ‘democratization’ of fashion, which actively contributed towards shaping an appropriate type of subjectivity: the fashion-conscious consumer. Rather than discussing whether marketing forged new or responded to already existing fashion trends, this article employs a genealogical approach and focuses on the process of co-emergence: under what conditions and through what kind of forces did separate developments in fashion and marketing eventually join to meet the needs of a new form of subjectivity-in-the-making?


Sign in / Sign up

Export Citation Format

Share Document